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Good Cleaner for matte silver furnature

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bigcountry

32 Cal.
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I just fired off some PRB's in my Cougar. Its not like my other T/C hawken with brass. Near the nipple, I can't seem to remove the powder marks? And she is so pretty and would like to keep her that way.
 
I just fired off some PRB's in my Cougar. Its not like my other T/C hawken with brass. Near the nipple, I can't seem to remove the powder marks? And she is so pretty and would like to keep her that way.

A good hot water & soap scrubbing with a toothbrush is all I've ever used around the nipple area and mine have always comes clean as factory new...your's is a 'blued' barrel, right? (not stainless)
 
Below the nipple I should say on the silver matte section. I was using remington No11s
 
Take a tooth brush and some soft scrub bathroom cleanser... that should take it off. If the soap and water does not do the trick. I have used this on my nickle finish rifles to get off spots. Although sometimes I think that burn is right into the metal. Sometimes like you have noted, it is really tuff to get it clean...
 
Below the nipple I should say on the silver matte section. I was using remington No11s

You mean on the " silver lock"...or are you saying it's on the barrel...that the barrel is "silver"?

"Cougars" have 'blued' barrels.
"Silver Elites" had silver (stainless) barrels.

Does the stock on this rifle has a round stainless medallion of a Cougar on a rock, inset into the right side of the buttstock?
 
Sorry should have been more specific. The silver lock, and hammer. Its a blued barrel just like yours. Just some staining from the primer going off.
 
Sorry should have been more specific. The silver lock, and hammer. Its a blued barrel just like yours. Just some staining from the primer going off.

Well, that's a puzzler...shocked that it won't come right off using hot soapy water and a toothbrush.

If it was one of mine, I'd dab the corner of an old washcloth into some hot water, sprinkle a light shake of comet cleanser on the cloth, and gently rub with that...never had a stubborn spot on my stainless locks.

Now up inside the hammer shrouds, they will get stained looking and it's almost impossible to keep them looking factory new up inside there using normal methods, but what I found works awfully good is using a "breech face brush".

I take a breech face brush that normally threads onto a ramrod, chuck it into a drill motor, wet the brush with WD40, then a bit of comet cleanser, place the brush up into the hammer shroud and turn on the drill motor.
The brush "splays out" up inside the hammer shroud and scrub / cleans it all up so it looks about 99% new.
 
Well, unfortunatley this gun was not taken care of. alot of this black has been on here for a long time. I was going to take a bras brush, but think it would make situation worse.

I am going to get the barrel reblued I believe.
 
BC:

Are you familiar with Ballistol? The Germans invented it before WWI as an all-purpose cleaner/lubricant/protectant of metal, wood and leather. I use it cut 4-1 with water for pour-in bore cleaner, full-strength on patches for scrubbing inside and out. It gets all sorts of groaties off and out of places they shouldn't be. Read all about it at: http://www.ballistol.com/
 
I recently found a REALLY good solvent for removing old powder. Hoppe's has a new solvent called Hoppe's Elite. It doesn't stink, and it's non-toxic, but I'll tell you what: it works. I saw metal on a couple of my modern handguns after cleaning with this stuff that I had never seen before, like the little tiny crevice where the barrel meets the cylinder on a revolver... I could NEVER get that powder fouling out of there, no matter how hard I tried. Hit it with a spray of this stuff, let it sit for 30 seconds, and wiped it with a patch, and it was like new. I have used it on black powder too, and it works great. They claim it cleans into the pores of the metal, leaving it cleaner than it came from the factory. I don't know about all that, but you might want to try it.
 

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