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Good Nipple Wrench

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Had a tight nipple this weekend that was just flat tough to get out of a GM barrel. And yes, I had teflon on it just like I always do. In this case the major diameter (top of threads diameter) on the stainless nipple was right at the outer tolerance and that made for a tight removal. But in the process the aged nipple wrench got a little more wallowed out and I may as well start shopping for a replacement.
Do yall know of a source for nipple wrenches that are made out of steel worthy of the name "wrench"?
 
You could probably make a really good nipple wrench out of a good 1/4" drive, 3/16" socket.

Sockets made out of Chrome Vanadium or Chrome Moly steel are exceptionally strong.

Because of their strength and hardness they aren't easy to cut the 1/4" wide slot thru but if carefully done you'll have the "Nipple Wrench from Hell" that should concur any belligerent nipple you might find.
 
The nipple is another of those items that don't really require a lot of torque to set properly in its place. It should be snug to be sure and you need to apply some lube to the threads. A good lubricant or anti seize is fine. I've used RIG and don't have a problem.

I do know that when I remove the nipple to add powder to demonstrate how to remove a ball that was loaded before the powder, the removal of the nipple is more difficult.
 
If I have a tight really nipple I have some really small wrenches I use. I don't remove the nipple every time I clean but I do it ever so often which helps keep it from getting stuck bad. I also place a tiny amount of oil on the threads to keep it from seizing.
 
I had one that seemed really tight going in so I took a brass cleaning brush and bore solvent and screwed it in and out several times. A bunch of crud broke loose. I gave the nipple the same scrubbing and it made things a lot better. I use grease on it when I put it back in.

Geo. T.
 
I have a T/C nipple wrench. Hardened steel and made in the USA. Was not cheap like the CVA ones are, but its also not imported...

You can make one from a socket, but if you don't have access to a mill I don't think its going to be a fun project. Don't use cheap sockets, only use quality forged sockets, Craftsmen or something like that.
 
I have the TC nipple wrench that also has the built in claw tail for pulling barrel wedges. I also have a CVA nipple wrench that has the slide through handle. Seems that if one of the wrenches doesn't work the other one will. The biggest draw back to the TC type is it is useless in tight spots where the bulky tool can't hit the nipple at the right angle. I have also had to resort to just an open end wrench of the proper size on a couple of custom rifles.
 
The best nipple wrench ever. Period. Was made by Curly Gostomski of North Star West.
I have had mine many years and love it. It encases the nipple completely making it possible to exert a lot of muscle without rounding the nipple.
Sadly, the company no longer makes that model. :(
 
I have never had a nipple get marred up, but I have broken or torn up a lot of wrenches over the years. Back before I learned we do not have to torque the nipples down... :redface:
I have a TC tool for my long guns and it is great, no issues.
I have a Ted Cash ratchet wrench on the way for my pistols. Then I can get rid of the piece of manure that Traditions sells.
 
Zonie--Can you post a picture of your cut socket.

I'd like to see where you place the cut in a 6 point 3/16" socket.

Thanks!
 
As usual, when I want something, it's hiding.

I did dig thru a pile of sockets and found a no name brand 1/4" drive, 3/16 inch socket.

This socket on the working end is .355 diameter which will work fine on a .36 or .44 caliber C&B revolver but it will be too big for a .32.
My 1848 Colts have a .315 wide pocket the nipple wrench needs to fit down into.

Anyway with a 6 point 3/16" socket, it is .217 from point to point.

That value, being smaller than the .250 dimension across the flats of a nipple flat means it really doesn't matter where the cut is located. It will always clean up leaving the needed flats.

Also, because the end of the socket that has the 1/4" square drive is larger than the working end of the socket, it might be a good idea to try it on a nipple before going to the bother to try to cut the needed flats. It's large body might interfere with the clearance in the cylinder.

Course on a rifle it won't matter. :)
 
I have had really good luck with the Track of the Wolf wrenches. That being said I always have two of each size on hand, in case I break one. They are fairly reasonable, anywhere from $6 to $10. However the steel seams good, and has lasted ever since I bought them in mid Oct. I did break the traditions nipple wrench.
 
Here's the one I made. Made the cut along the straight sides of the hex. Did it with a Dremel tool with a cut off wheel.

NippleWrench.jpg
 
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