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Good vs Bad Sprue Shooting Test: Lee Mold

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Nope, not too shabby. That would be a game getting load. Keep working on it and you can get it to where you can hit squirrel heads with it. It's not my first choice for a squirrel rifle but as long as you hit them in the head..... :thumbsup:
 
When you are out hunting you don't need to wipe between the first and probably the second shot.
After the third shot you may have collected enough baked on residue to make loading difficult and you accuracy may have left.
If you can shoot many shots without wiping and still get good groups I congratulate you.

Dutch Schoultz
 
I dug out a couple of molds that I have had packed away in the garage for many years. The steel .490 mold was covered with surface rust and may or may not drop a decent ball after cleaned up. It was stored with freshly cast balls in the cavities and they were still bright.

The Lee mold basically looked like the day it was put away. Not rusting is one positive for a Lee mold.
 
Anytime I need to remove surface rust I drop the piece into a plastic container of Vapo-Rust.
Leave it for a couple of hours and you'll be amazed. :thumbsup:
 
I use to have my round balls from my Lee molds do what yours is but I solved that problem by not holding my dipper tight against the sprue plate. It allowed the air to escape from under the plate. I also made sure the vent line on the mold halfs were clean. It's odd that you get away running you lead so hot and not flashing the mold. I'm sure you know that getting lead hot like that puts lead vapor onto the air. As far as the sprue I get with my Lyman mold. I tumble them in a small rock tumbler I have with lead shot. Rounds the sprue off and make my round balls black and stops them from getting that white nasty stuff on them when they're storied for long periods of time.
 
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