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The warden/officer will look at the outside of his barrel. Being a Pedersoli it will state ".45 Caliber" and that will be good enough.

45KENTUCK-024790_3.jpg


Don't know if Utah is like other states that specify things like "single, round ball" or other such regulations.
 
What are you hunting up there in Utah?

Last two time a game warden spoke to me with a flintlock. He didn't even ask for tags or anything. Was interested in the not so commonly used gun I had.

You'll be fine. Elk or bear with a 45. That's another story.

Just reload the gun as soon as you shoot, even if it sinks like a rock. I've had unexpected visitors like the smell of my "lunch" better than theirs.
 
Well thanks for all the comments folks, The intent of the question was thoughts on using the .445 balls in a .45, The brown truck showed up this evening and now I have a box of .445 to try in the morning if the rain quits. I rolled a bare ball down the barrel and it rolled pretty easy down and out. Tried a .018 patch and can see its a no go, too tight for sure. Now all I have to do is find a suitable patch material, maybe slightly tweak the sights and try to find a deer out on the desert I like to hunt to get away from the hordes of inlines
 
Best get down to the fabric store. 100% cotton. Bring your micrometer. Mic that .018 patch first (to see how it mics for you.) and find some .013, .010. and maybe .008 or so. Good luck :thumbsup:
 
If you go with a patch that turns out to be thin enough but not quite strong enough try an over powder wad or even another patch as a over powder wad. It would probably help.
 
I agree with the over-powder wad idea. I use them myself specifically so I can use a thinner patch on the hunt.
My arm ain't as strong as a mans and it isn't as strong as it used to be. Seating a PRB in a fouled barrel with a thick patch isn't easy for me. With a thinner patch it isn't too much of a struggle to get it started. The wad makes up for my handicap in this area.

An over powder wad will do a lot to protect the patch from burning. This really does a lot to increase performance. It is an easy out, I'll be the first to admit.

Now if you have a good strong arm and seating a tight patch is easy for you then by all means you should use the thicker patch. You will get better groups with the proper patch than you will with a thinner patch and wad combo. Have you gotten Dutch's system yet?
 
Cynthia,
You are correct. An over powder wad does a lot of the work a close fitting patch provides and if you don't want the bother of getting your patching precisely right it is a good "end run"/
Now that I am at the halfway make of my 90th years I like to think I still have ability to produce the appropriate whack to start a correctly parched round ball.
.

I guess I'llnever find out/
Dutch
 
The only patch material That worked today mic's 12,
Worked down from the .18 to a small piece of .12. seemed to load about right tight but not excessive. recovered a few but did not like how tattered the patches looked, I am not sure what the material is but could swear that it is an old flannel shirt I cut up. It was accurate though at least with the crummy trigger that is on this particular flinty. Was fearful of a grass fire after seeing the patches.
Weave seemed pretty loose and alot of fraying present. looks like I may be getting some blow by so the patch search continues.
 
You want a fresh piece of tight weave cotton.
Never use an old shirt unless you are fightin' Injuns in an old black and white movie.
That old shirt gets worn down more in one spot than another and the patch thickness is all over the place. Working up an accurate load with such substandard patches is going to be difficult.
 
Once you get involved in taking compressed measurements with your micrometer you will become aware that some fabrics that measure .018 in the uncompressed manner will compress more than other fabric that measures .025 in an uncompressed measure.
To rephrase the real measure meant of the patch materials thickness is what happens when crushed between ball and wall.
It depends on the tightness or looseness of the weave. Bringing the micrometer just up snug when measuring anything is how we would measure hard things like piston rings. Measureing a compressible material like cloth is a whole different thing.
I bought some precut patches a hundred years ago from a respectable source which all measured .018 as advertised but on investigation found that when compressed the patches were from three different materials and measured three different thicknesses.

All this seems like a lot of nit picking bother , but when you find a fabric that compresses exactly they way you want it. go buy 9 or 10 yards of that material and you won't have to think about patch thickness for the next 15 or twenty years.
You can spend a bundle on a micrometer and that would be a waste. Get a cheap one from Sears or Harbor Freight

I picked up a used Starret Micrometer for $5 at a gun show. Had I not done so I would never have stumbled across my big discovery.


If you're getting bored by my continual nagging, think how I feel.

Dutch Schwartz
 
I get all sorts of responses to most everything I write EXCEPT when I write about the main discovery I stumbled across which is the only reason I ever wrote anything on the subject of achieving accuracy.

I;m not cetain why getting your shooting patch exactly or near exactly right has such a dramatic effect on getting wee groups at 50 and 100 yards but there it is.

I had one subscriber who with a micrometer, and a selection of cloth material of different impressed measure thicknesses who went to various shoots and demonstrated quickly how he cold change a shooter's groups to something you could cover with a quarter.
I guess what I am up against is the American Male's reluctance to tackle long division or the dread decimal challenge.


Some years ago I suggested an end run to speed up the discovery of your ideal patch thickness by shimming your patches with sheets of thin paper(cigarette) between patch and ball till you get great groups and then take a compressed measurement of the patch and the umber of sheets of paper and then go to Jo Snn\s fabric shop and finding a cotton fabric that compressed about the same.

I;m sure that tip is still there on my web site.

Whenever someone writes that he is using my System and then says he is using .017 or .018 patch material he is telling me that he likes all the peripheral suggestions I make but has overlooked the very important central core.

It saddens me that so many of the great guys out there are missing out on my discovery because of a fear of mathematics.

Dutch Schoultz
 
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