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Got a New T/C Hawken today....

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I just done some "horse trading". The results of which makes me the owner of a T/C Hawken kit rifle (among a few other items). The previous owner did nothing but stain the stock (no sanding) and whatever else was required to do in the kit to finish it..What would you guys suggest I do to make it look a little more "authentic"..I plan on stripping the stock and re-finishing it with a dark tru-oil finish... or linseed oil.What kinda sights do they make to replace the original? also considered replacing the brass.. but with what? Anyhow.. was just kicking the idea around...
I havn't shot it yet, but the rifling is perfect and the previous owner (also the builder of the rifle) said he never did either..Hopefully it will be a good shooter.
 
I'm with you on replacing the brass. The Hawken Shop sells steel replacements. And like all else it's a matter of taste. I've been holding off on replacing the brass, because I'm more and more inclined to get a replacement stock from Pecatonica, which has more drop at the comb to better fit my cheek bones.
 
just so ya know : no patchbox is available with the steel/iron replacement parts. luck to ya and have a good'en friend, bubba.
 
Check some of the dealers they have some steel patchbox's. Maybe you could find one thats a bit larger than the brass one and inlet it in! Check Track of the Wolf!
 
Right, you can probably get a slightly larger steel patchbox and do it yourself. Might need to do some calling for measurements. Good luck. Bill
 
You might try aging the brass, that will give it used look, I only have one rifle with brass furniture and I have never cleaned it in 20 yrs. I do prefer the look of iron though.
 
S.kenton said:
I'm with ya on the stock replacement.. I get the ol' puffy cheek syndrome too!
I'm going to check into the steel replacement parts..what sights would you recommend.. as close to PC/HC as possible yet functional as well?

The conversion rear sight sold by The Hawken Shop is a dandy.

I no longer have the gun, but as others suggested I used a slightly larger steel patch box from TOW to replace the original on a TC.

And if you decide simply to age the brass, the quickest and best way I've found is simply to rub the brass with your patches dirty with black powder fouling when you swab at the range. The "aging" starts right away, but goes only so far with each range trip, so you can age them a bit at a time till you hit the patina you want.
 
I picked up a used TC Hawken a couple of weeks ago. It's a kit gun that someone put together but didn't do any finish work on. $100 gunshow special. The barrel looks good as it has a natural brown patina. The stock is grungy but I can see significant curl under the dirt. It will be steel wooled and Tru-oiled. I plan on keeping the brass furniture as I like the look and it is PC in this locale. I will however replace the modern hunting sights with something more retro, probably one of the Hawken shops offerings. You can't beat the quality of these guns especially for the prices that you can find them for used.
 
I really doubt any of the Hawken Shop stuff will 'drop-in' fit the TC Hawken stock.
The after market stocks are not drop-in either. Just a beware notice not saying don't.
I would avoid linseed oil no matter what. There are just too many much better options.
 
I think I will try the " aging process" you describe. I'm def. going to brown the barrel and put primitive sights on it.. and re-do the finish and attempt to "darken" it a bit..any suggestions of how to remove the finish?.. Not even sure what the finish is.. bit it has dirt in it..like a urathane maybe?
 
S.kenton said:
...any suggestions of how to remove the finish?....

Stripper from the paint store works for me. If it's some weird finish you might have to dry another variety, but there's something out there that works.

That leaves the option open of not removing any wood, if you so desire. It should help lift finish up out of the grain, too.

If you know for sure you'll be reducing dimensions here and there, you could sand rasp or scrape those areas. I prefer to save those decisions till after the finish is stripped.
 
S.kenton said:
Next question.. anyone know what Lyman uses on their GPR rifles as a finish? I'm going to use a Dark finish for my T/C.

Notaclue, but it comes off easily with stripper. They've got some stain right in the finish, too. I stripped a darkish GPR stock and discovered that about 1/4 of the forend, right at the tip, was bright yellow sap wood. Couldn't see it at all with the original finish, and I had a devil of a time "matching" it back to the rest of the stock with my refinish.

You can add stain to TruOil, but a very little goes a very long when when doing multiple coats. I switch to plain TruOil for subsequent coats once I get a stock as dark as I want. I've used Watco, Minwax, and LMF with equal success.
 
Here are a few I have done. All have stain and tung oil finish applied.

IMG_4793-1.jpg

IMG_5196.jpg

IMG_2062-1.jpg

IMG_2063_edited-1.jpg

IMG_1992.jpg



Here is a GPR.

IMG_6565.jpg


The TC unlike the GPR is pretty much done to size as it comes from the factory. I would be careful removing wood until you know exactly the way you want it.
Any commercial stripper will easily remove the finish. Do not sand finer than 150 grit and burnish between coats with 0000 steel wool. And it will look fabulous.
 
Precussion or Flint Lock, what caliber?
I bought a new old stock 50cal TC Flint Lock a couple of years ago. It sure is fun to shoot.
 
I hope my refinish comes out looking as good as yours! You've got me thinking about adding a toe plate again too!
 

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