Got my lancaster flint today.

[Crow#21957]

Took 2 weeks due to zipcode messed up. Already drawfile barrel. Barrel sat right in stock even before drawfiling.
Got two questions will send pic of liner they sent but don't think I want it. Whitelightning is what I think I should use. Second thing is stock has some warp.Right in the middle0 where entry thimble goes ican squeeze the barrel and stock and the stock will go up about 3/16before stopping at barrel.
Should I leave the stock alone and bed full length of barrel. Or clamp stock up to barrel and go ahead with pinning the barrel.Dont want to stress the barrel(accuracy) but 3/16 to maybe close to 1/8 should stress or flex a 13/16 octagon barrel. What's your more experienced veiw? Thanks.

 

[Larry (Omaha)]

Took 2 weeks due to zipcode messed up. Already drawfile barrel. Barrel sat right in stock even before drawfiling.
Got two questions will send pic of liner they sent but don't think I want it. Whitelightning is what I think I should use. Second thing is stock has some warp.Right in the middle0 where entry thimble goes ican squeeze the barrel and stock and the stock will go up about 3/16before stopping at barrel.
Should I leave the stock alone and bed full length of barrel. Or clamp stock up to barrel and go ahead with pinning the barrel.Dont want to stress the barrel(accuracy) but 3/16 to maybe close to 1/8 should stress or flex a 13/16 octagon barrel. What's your more experienced veiw? Thanks.

You have no issues in my opinion. You are not going to bend that barrel. Install the barrel against the stock inlet.
Throw that TH away, the slotted ones are good for nothing in my opinion. A TH never comes out. Get one that will be cranked in with an outside lug that grinds off after the TH is installed.
Keep us posted.
Larry

 

[BillKilgore]

If you leave the barrel clamped into the stock, the wood will conform to the barrel. A little warping is normal and easily fixed. I have built only 2 rifles (both Lancasters). I used white lightnin' touch hole liners in both and I'm very satisfied. I have read that drilling the touch hole to 1/16" improves ignition.

There is a discussion ongoing about a nice technique for drilling point to point holes. Point to point drilling

Is your rifle a kit or components you picked out? What brand and caliber barrel do you have?

 

[TDM]

Agree with @Larry (Omaha) and @BillKilgore, ditch the slotted vent liner and clamp the stock as is.

 

[Crow#21957]

Bill Kilgore it is a kit. I've got a good method for drilling the barrel pins and triggers and pipes. Don't know the barrel brand. No markings anywhere odd odd odd
It's a 32.

 

[oldwood]

Anytime you clamp a barrel into a preinlet barrel channel , tighten the clamps just tight enough to accomplish holding the barrel in the barrel channel. Barrels can be bent if the inlet is tight at some spots. Just inlet the barrel in , 'til it's where it belongs , then pin it.

 

[TDM]

Just inlet the barrel in , 'til it's where it belongs , then pin it.

And slot the tenons.

 

[oldwood]

Slotting is good ,especially on tapered and flared barrels.

 

[Crow#21957]

This lancaster is a beefy stock. I may see if I can put it on a diet.

 

[BillKilgore]

My first was a kit from TOTW and there was a lot of wood to work with. You should be able to fine tune your stock to make it just the way you want.

 

[oldwood]

Best way to cause a diet to happen to a stock ,is to massage it's butt with a Nicholson cabinet rasp. Careful though , too much rasping can ruin the looks of a perfectly good stock.

 

[Crow#21957]

Pics of lancaster. It's coming along.

 

[Crow#21957]

That's a good one. I didn't even have the barrel in it. Pics when finished.

 

[Crow#21957]

Ok I had it apart sanding. Here's one with barrel and all the brass but it was still chubby. Put it on a diet with big file and sanding.

 

[oldwood]

Will it be Dickert , Dreppert , another, or just your's?? In an old report about the Rev. War , Battle of King's Mtn. , the author used the coined name Deckard Rifles , there were so many govt. issue, Lancaster built rifles ,in the action........oldwood

 

[Crow#21957]

I do not know we. Lol On the website it says Late lancaster. I'm trying to keep everything the the pics and reading tells me. Not concerned with period correct but do want to stay as close as I can.

 

[Flintandsteel]

You still have a lot of wood to remove all over.
Lock panel, forestock, fore end, and barrel channel.
Skinny that old girl up.

 

[Crow#21957]

I don't know will probably leave as is. I know you are correct but I've had a time with the wood. I usually leave them more beey than this one is.

 

[Crow#21957]

One more question. I'm waiting on the patch box but trying to decide on barrel pin escutions. These are probably not meant for escutions but if I did use them,,,,,,my?? Is what would hold them in other than epoxy? I usually pin all my inlays and use epoxy but if I pin these one on each end of the inlay then the barrel pin coming through the center that would be a bit much and look odd I think. So what do you use to hold them in.
Sorry to go on so much I just want to make this look nice. Maybe no barrel pin inlays???? Tap on pic to see inlay

 

[Crow#21957]

Got the flash hole liner in. From measuring with the ram rod it appears to be
1/16 th to 3/32 in front of breachplug face.
Here's a pic.