Got my lancaster flint today.

[TDM]

Looks good.

 

[Crow#21957]

Thankyou. I didn't think anyone was going to notice.lol
Waiting on patch box. After that I just need to stain and finish it.

 

[Dale Allen Raby]

You won't warp the barrel, the wood will eventually conform to the barrel channel... though it can take some time. There are ways to bend wood involving heat and moisture, but in this case, I think it would cause you more trouble than it is worth. For the rest, TDM & Co. are giving you good advice.

 

[BillKilgore]

One more question. I'm waiting on the patch box but trying to decide on barrel pin escutions. These are probably not meant for escutions but if I did use them,,,,,,my?? Is what would hold them in other than epoxy? I usually pin all my inlays and use epoxy but if I pin these one on each end of the inlay then the barrel pin coming through the center that would be a bit much and look odd I think. So what do you use to hold them in.
Sorry to go on so much I just want to make this look nice. Maybe no barrel pin inlays???? Tap on pic to see inlay

They are small escutcheons so I would just epoxy them into the inlay.

 

[TDM]

Agree with @BillKilgore

 

[oldwood]

If you use 1/16" pins , they are almost invisible. Why use pins so large , they make an issue of a hole slightly imperfectly drilled.

 

[Crow#21957]

Bill jow about these. It's a pain in the but.. but they sure are not coming out.I would hate to have a Imlay pop out because putting one back would probably sanding on the inlay and stock simultaneously.
Once the inlay is mortise in and a little deeper to make room for the nails I solder on. Put JB weld in the mortise and push the inlay in. I put masking tape over it overnight.
Next day file and sand flush and polish inlay.That *** will lock those inlays in due to the hole under the arch of inlay. Ok uou can all laugh now.

 

[Crow#21957]

Fly over veiw of backside

 

[BillKilgore]

That will certainly work. Looking forward to seeing the finished rifle. Below is me second rifle. I should have bought escutcheons with smooth curving edges like yours. These were a pain to inlet and there are still gaps.

 

[Crow#21957]

I know I've done those it is a pain and for what it's worth that looks better than my first.lol I'm going to get a couple pics for you be back. For those inlays you done get a pocket screwdriver. File it so the blade is about 1/8 th wide then file the point so its not a screwdriver but a sharp ppl chisel. That's what I use in those tight curves. Takes a few 1/8 lines yo get around the curve.

 

[Crow#21957]

I will get some pics of some inlays. Trust me we all start out there or somewhere . You done good.That patch box looks easy but not so easy.Bill tap on the pic and it will show more rorearm. Look at the inlay on the forearm. It was done with 1/4 in chisel and my little screwdriver that thinks it's a chisel.

 

[Crow#21957]

Bill I got alot better way to make a holding spot on the inlays. No soldering.

 

[akroguy]

Yeah, that stock needs to go on a diet. Great start you have going! I finished a build that had a twist in the forestock. I soaked it and clamped it down holding counter-twist on it over night. It did lessen the warp but not completely. It ended up looking juuuust fine anyway. We have to remember that we're mating a piece of a tree to a piece of steel and that sometimes the two won't completely agree.

 

[Crow#21957]

Akroguy I understand. Myself and my wood stocks and steel have had several disagreements. Lol

 

[BillKilgore]

Bill I got alot better way to make a holding spot on the inlays. No soldering.

I put the barrel pins through the escutcheons. The photo is my second attempt. The first attempt was truly horrid. I sanded the stock down to remove the first inlets, then tried again with Exacto knives and a small chisel. It also brought the weight of the rifle down by 5 ounces.

 

[Crow#21957]

Some guys a say inlet the inlays then drill for barrel pins. I don't get it. I get the barrel pinned in then center and drill the inlays.
Then slide the inlay over the barrel pin all the way to the stock and mark around them with pencil. I then remove the inlay from the pin and tap the pin to about 1/8 below wood surface. Then chisel out the wood where I marked. Then all ya gott a do is tap the pin back thru and slide the inlay in place. Some guys take the hard way I try to find the easiest. Got the aquafortis boxed and addressed. Mail tomorrow.

 

[Crow#21957]

Bill here's a pic nor done but close.
Looks like a gap on top side if lid but it's because I ve not inleted that side. And on bottom of hinge that's a shadow
Not a gap.I do have a couple gaps at the top of patchbox I gotta glue a scrap piece of maple in.

 

[BillKilgore]

It's looking good, Crow. To me, Lancaster rifles look slim and graceful. More so than Bedford County, Southern Mountain Rifles or later styles.

It appears you are still working on inletting the rear of the trigger guard. The butt plate and toe plate look well fit.

Are you going with the traditional aqua fortis stain?

 

[Crow#21957]

As of Saturday night at 9:30
Everything is on it except sights and the barrel pin escuchians. Still gotta fine sand and polish patch box. Sights are about an hour then ecuchians maybe 2 hrs or so.
I'm happy with the outcome.

 

[Crow#21957]

Pics of my almost finished lancaster. The lancaster on bottom has a spot looks like shadow on patch box ,,,just haven't sanded and polished it up yet.