That is correct, my bad. I don't know why Sharon popped into my head, I have never owned a Sharon barrel. I have never seen any actual documentaion to prove these barrels were done by Douglas, have never seen one of them stamped Douglas, and nothing was in the original paperwork that came with the rifle or in the assembly instructions stating as such, but have been always told they were made by Douglas. When I bought the kit in the 70's I was told this by a friend that was a ML shooter & it was one of the reasons I wanted this rifle. At that time a Douglas barrel was about the best barrel you could buy. When this rifle was offered for $ 119. they also had the CVA Ky rifle kits for $ 79.95 in .45 cal, and and it was the 2 piece stock KY rifles you see now & then. At first I was going to get one of those as well but just didn't like the 2 piece stock & so never did buy one.
-
Friends, our 2nd Amendment rights are always under attack and the NRA has been a constant for decades in helping fight that fight.
We have partnered with the NRA to offer you a discount on membership and Muzzleloading Forum gets a small percentage too of each membership, so you are supporting both the NRA and us.
Use this link to sign up please; https://membership.nra.org/recruiters/join/XR045103
Got the CVA .58 today
- Thread starter wtilenw
- Start date
Help Support Muzzleloading Forum:
MikeChapin
58 Cal.
- Joined
- Apr 5, 2005
- Messages
- 2,183
- Reaction score
- 6
When I got my Mountain Rifle in the late seventies they advertised that it came with a match grade barrel. There was no mention of Douglas or any other brand. I later found out they were Douglas barrels.
I have heard the very first T/C Hawkens had Sharon barrels before they started manufacturing their own. Dunno how true that is but it is just something I picked up over the years.
The first rifle I "scratch" built has a Sharon barrel. I was so impressed with it that I wanted to put one on my next build but by that time Sharon wasn't making BP barrels anymore. I ended up with a Montana which was very good also.
I have heard the very first T/C Hawkens had Sharon barrels before they started manufacturing their own. Dunno how true that is but it is just something I picked up over the years.
The first rifle I "scratch" built has a Sharon barrel. I was so impressed with it that I wanted to put one on my next build but by that time Sharon wasn't making BP barrels anymore. I ended up with a Montana which was very good also.
hepburn4590
36 Cal.
- Joined
- Oct 8, 2006
- Messages
- 89
- Reaction score
- 0
I have one of these and I can echo everything Birddog6 said about the rifle. I have won numerous offand matches with this rifle. I have several custom rifles that I enjoying shooting but when the cash hits the table I reach for my CVA Big Bore Mountain rifle. The lock time is a little on the slow side so you have to be sure and hold through the target.
I started coning the barrel on the .58 over Thanksgiving (in between Dutch oven watching) and finished it up today. I also took the trigger assembly apart and got it cleaned up nice (filed, flat sanded and polished everything that touches or mates). The triggers seem to work much smoother now. I've got a mainspring vise coming from TOTW and when it arrives, I'll start work on the lock. I'll leave the asthetic stuff for after the mechanics are done. From the patches I've ran down the bore so far, it seems i have some really sharp rifling on my hands. It will take some shooting to smooth them out, I'll resort to scotch brite pads if it seems too much.
Idaho PRB
Idaho PRB
paulvallandigham
Passed On
- Joined
- Jan 9, 2006
- Messages
- 17,538
- Reaction score
- 87
If you already know the lands are sharp, why not use scotchbright pads, and some toothpaste to deal with it while you are waiting?
hepburn4590
36 Cal.
- Joined
- Oct 8, 2006
- Messages
- 89
- Reaction score
- 0
Scotch-brite pads are for pots and pans. Not for the bore of any rifle barrel. I would tight patch it using a spit patch. The bore will perfect in about 50 shots. The gun will shoot suprising well just as it is. The introduction of any abrasive will only compromise a good barrel.
paulvallandigham
Passed On
- Joined
- Jan 9, 2006
- Messages
- 17,538
- Reaction score
- 87
YOu are entitled to your opinion, on this matter, and others, but I disagree.
Barrels are made of steel, and about the only thing you take off with any kind of " soft " lap is the fine burrs on the edges of the lands.
Shooting 50 shots out of a .45 is quite a bit different than shooting 50 shots out of a .58! Just the difference in the cost and weight of the lead is substantial, not to mention the amount of powder. Even using squib loads of powder in the big bore can be a substantial cost factor, particular if the shooter has to use one of the expensive substitute powders.
The Green scrubs can be cut down and used to HOLD the lapping substance- in this case, toothpaste. The material of the scrub is NOT HARD ENOUGH to cut steel by itself. The Toothpaste has very fine abrasives in the matrix, and its this that will remove very fine amounts of steel. Its not going to ruin a steel barrel. Lapping barrels with soft and hard( cast lead) laps has been done as long as there have been rifles. Lapping compounds differ, but most shooters have toothpaste in their house, and it does a fairly good job for this kind of lapping.
50 strokes down and back out the barrel with a jag, scrubbie, and toothpaste will do much quicker what shooting 50 PRB will do. Soap and water will remove the residue, and the gun is ready to go.
Barrels are made of steel, and about the only thing you take off with any kind of " soft " lap is the fine burrs on the edges of the lands.
Shooting 50 shots out of a .45 is quite a bit different than shooting 50 shots out of a .58! Just the difference in the cost and weight of the lead is substantial, not to mention the amount of powder. Even using squib loads of powder in the big bore can be a substantial cost factor, particular if the shooter has to use one of the expensive substitute powders.
The Green scrubs can be cut down and used to HOLD the lapping substance- in this case, toothpaste. The material of the scrub is NOT HARD ENOUGH to cut steel by itself. The Toothpaste has very fine abrasives in the matrix, and its this that will remove very fine amounts of steel. Its not going to ruin a steel barrel. Lapping barrels with soft and hard( cast lead) laps has been done as long as there have been rifles. Lapping compounds differ, but most shooters have toothpaste in their house, and it does a fairly good job for this kind of lapping.
50 strokes down and back out the barrel with a jag, scrubbie, and toothpaste will do much quicker what shooting 50 PRB will do. Soap and water will remove the residue, and the gun is ready to go.
Jumpshot
54 Cal.
Does anyone know if the .58 Mountain Rifle lends itself easily to being converted to a flintlock? L&R makes a flint lock that appears to be the same dimensions as the percussion lock. It says they're interchangeable, so it must be the same lock plate, but will the pan line up with the hole if the drum is removed? I've never done a conversion, so forgive the ignorant question. I'd like to convert mine, if it's something that can be done by someone with no experience. Here's the lock:
http://www.lr-rpl.com/rplsm.htm
http://www.lr-rpl.com/rplsm.htm
Last edited by a moderator:
hepburn4590 said:
Geeeeeeeeezzzzzzz........... The Getz Barrel Co. has been doing them all wrong for ? 40 years ? I'll bet Don Getz is really disappointed......
:rotf:
However, I do hear of guys grabbing valve grinding compound & lapping the manure out of barrels, & have No Idea what they are doing...... & rest assured they just ruined a good barrel...... :shake:
hepburn4590
36 Cal.
- Joined
- Oct 8, 2006
- Messages
- 89
- Reaction score
- 0
We do disagree. A barrel lap in the hands of a skilled 'smith is one thing. A Brillo pad on stick is quite another. 'Nuf' said.
paulvallandigham
Passed On
- Joined
- Jan 9, 2006
- Messages
- 17,538
- Reaction score
- 87
Talk to the fellows at L&R about the interchangeability of the locks. The add says they are, but you have a good question that they should be able to answer.
My Cochran lock was suppose to be interchangeable, too, but it wasn't. I also wanted my flashhole placed higher above the flashpan, but with the hole drilled for the drum, the vent hole was centered on the line at the top of the pan.
My Cochran lock was suppose to be interchangeable, too, but it wasn't. I also wanted my flashhole placed higher above the flashpan, but with the hole drilled for the drum, the vent hole was centered on the line at the top of the pan.
MikeChapin
58 Cal.
- Joined
- Apr 5, 2005
- Messages
- 2,183
- Reaction score
- 6
Jumpshot said:
Not really. It's not a simple matter of unscrewing the drum and putting in a liner. The drum on the CVA has a larger shaft than normal that goes through the breechplug. You would have build a custom liner to go into the large hole.
The few I have seen converted had the drum cut off and the interior hole drilled and tapped for a standard liner.
It would be much easier to get a 1" barrel and put a flint hooked breech in it and fit the hook to the CVA tang. Put a couple of underlugs in the right spots and an underrib and thimbles and you are in business.
The L&R replacement lock should drop in to the plate area. You may have to do a little internal inletting because the lock internals on the L&R are a litte beefier. This won't bother how the percussion internals fit.
Klaus
40 Cal.
Hi Gents,
found this old threat here and would like to ask the owner`s of this nice rifle if there are a different in Barrel thickness and weight towards to Mountain Rifles in .45 or .50 Calibers
Often only the Walls sides of the present barrels are thinner but the basic barrel are the same.
In this fact i thinkt about it will be a possibile disadvantage with the heavier RB instaed of a 45.Cal as examplebecause the rifle are much lighter
Cheers
Klaus
found this old threat here and would like to ask the owner`s of this nice rifle if there are a different in Barrel thickness and weight towards to Mountain Rifles in .45 or .50 Calibers
Often only the Walls sides of the present barrels are thinner but the basic barrel are the same.
In this fact i thinkt about it will be a possibile disadvantage with the heavier RB instaed of a 45.Cal as examplebecause the rifle are much lighter
Cheers
Klaus
Rogue River
45 Cal.
- Joined
- Dec 6, 2007
- Messages
- 911
- Reaction score
- 3
If I understand the question, the .50 cal. will be lighter than the .45 cal. in the Mt Rifle!
Klaus
40 Cal.
could be lighter !
if the manufacturer uses the same kind of Barrel for different Calibers as example a 32.Cal Hatfield is some pounds heavier as the same Rifle in Cal.50
you know
that`s what i mean
Klaus
if the manufacturer uses the same kind of Barrel for different Calibers as example a 32.Cal Hatfield is some pounds heavier as the same Rifle in Cal.50
you know
that`s what i mean
Klaus
smokymtnsmokepole
32 Cal.
- Joined
- Nov 2, 2009
- Messages
- 21
- Reaction score
- 0
Those are good rifles, I have an old .54 big bore Mountain Rifle in flint that's a good shooting gun. Birddog, the "aluminum pot metal" nose cap is pewter. Most of the mounting is German silver.
