GPR flint setup help

[dledinger]

Hello all, long time since I have posted.

I'm still getting used to my GPR (after a winter hiatus), but I am for sure enjoying the weather this week.

I have around 200 balls through it now and it is my first, but not last, flintlock.

I am wondering if something is wrong with how I am setting up the flint. It seems to be digging deeply into the frizzen, sparking only marginally well, and the flint life is poor. I get probably 20 shots per flint...though with the cut agate I flip them and get twice that. I have a bunch of English and French flints too, but the life is significantly worse and most of them are so thick I'll probably never figure out how to get them in the jaws.

I have not had a single flash in the pan since drilling the liner to 1/16th, but I do on occasion get a clatch where the pan does not ignite. Probably 1 in 10 shots. I'm not sure if I am inadequately cleaning the flint between shots (it gets incredibly wet/oily) or if that is related to a poor setup. I'm thinking of carrying some solvent to the range to keep the frizzen and flint clean and dry.

If I were to describe the sparks, I'd say about like a bic lighter. Not a shower by any stretch of the imagination.

Here's a picture of the frizzen. I'm not sure the cell phone picture shows very well, but the gouge where the flint strikes is substantial. It looks grainy, like broken cast iron.

Here's a picture showing the flint / frizzen engagement:

I am planning to order a deerslayer trigger this week along with some other tidbits. I'm wondering if a RPL lock would be a worthwhile investment. To be honest I'd rather spend the money on a .54 barrel for it.

Is this a lock issue, or a setup issue? My concern is that I don't think the frizzen will last long if I keep doing as I do...and of course I want to minimize the instances where the pan does not ignite and maximize the flint life.

I'm otherwise in the love with the flintlock! I had hoped to hunt all last fall with it, but unfortunately spent the season out of town on "business".

 

[smo]

How long is the flint you are using ? I appears too long, but could just be due to the photo angle. :idunno:

 

[jethro224]

OK, here's what I remember about the GPR flintlock I had;

You need 3/4 SQUARE flints to fit the best in that lock.

Adjust so that the edge of the flint is very close to contact with the closed frizzen at half-cock.

The GPR lock just has poor geometry. That's the way it was built.

My best sparks and flint life came by installing the flint bevel up with an additional piece of thick leather under the bottom side of the flint. This raises the flint higher in the jaws to get a higher strike on the frizzen. Installing the flint bevel down also raised the edge but made the angle of contact worse than the already not good angle with bevel up.

Another member that used to post here by the name of ebiggs came up with what I thought was the best solution. That was to replace the stock Lyman cock with one from T/C. By looking at his pictures the lock geometry was very much improved by this modification. Try searching for ebiggs old posts to see if you can find the information.

 

[vacca rabite]

The lock on the GPR (and all the coil spring locks on that type flinter) is crap.
I put an L&R on mine and it made it a totally different rifle. Really hated the stock lock. BLECH! Coil spring?! BLECH!

Zach

 

[pa woods roamer]

Cut Agate Flints will gouge the heck out of A Frizzen. I have also found that a thick piece of Leather will change the Lock Geometry for the better....

 

[dledinger]

All, thanks.

I bit the bullet today and ordered the L&R RPL, Deerslayer triggers, and a bunch more English flints. Hopefully it'll all be here by Saturday.

 

[Rifleman1776]

Cut Agate Flints will gouge the heck out of A Frizzen.

Horse apples. :barf:
In a proper lock, no different than knapped flint. They can outlast a black knapped flint by scores or hundreds of strikes.
Go ahead, ask me how I know. :grin:

 

[Rifleman1776]

All, thanks.

I bit the bullet today and ordered the L&R RPL, Deerslayer triggers, and a bunch more English flints. Hopefully it'll all be here by Saturday.

You should be very happy. That new lock may require a small bit of fitting. Not a big deal.

 

[pa woods roamer]

Yes, in a proper Lock. In the GPR , In My unprofessional opinion, they gouge the heck out of the Frizzen...

 

[silverfox]

GPR Flint yes the lock is not the best but some of them work fine. It is also true if you can find one of the new TC hammers and put it on your GPR lock it should make a good improvement for the price. The RPL lock you are getting should fix the problems you are having at this time. I soled a frizzen with a clock spring on one and it has been working great since then. Hope to see you on the dark side sometime. Fox

 

[FPDoc]

If you are going to get the T/C hammer, be sure to buy the Top Jaw and Jaw Screw as well. They are different sizes than the GPR uses. It takes about 2 weeks to get the parts delivered.

T/C Part numbers:
Hammer 51015630
Top Jaw 51015700
Top Jaw Screw 51165680

You may have to do some fitting of the hammer, mine was a bit loose on the tumbler. The geometry is better.

 

[StewartLeach]

With a little work you can tune the thick flints and pointy tops to work quite well. You'll need a coarse or extra coarse diamond file, or access to a tile saw. Use the files to dress down the tops to get a flat surface. While you're at it even them out side to side. Also round the rear edge of the flint a bit so it doesn't cut into the leather.

If you have access to a tile saw this can be done quickly. Make up a holding tool by gluing leather pads inside the jaws of a pair of slip joint pliers. Grip the flint by the ends, rest your hand on the table, and cut off the offending areas. I learned not to hold the flints in my fingers through blood loss and pain.

With either tooling, avoid breathing the dust, and rinse off eyeglasses before rubbing. Flint dust is harder than the anti-scratch coatings.

White Fox

 

[dledinger]

Had a little trouble installing the lock....I heavy handed the cock screw and stripped the tumbler. Finally got a new one in the mail. I'm not terribly pleased with how the new plate fits the factory mortise, but it'll work.

On the positive side it sure looks good, sparks good, and the trigger is remarkable!

 

[Darkgael]

Which Davis trigger fits the GPR? The Deerslayer?
Also fits the T/C Hawkes, that one?

Pete

 

[Mr. S]

Pete,
That's what Davis told me. The Deerslayer will fit. I was going to order one next week for my GPR. They told me might just have to remove a little wood from the mortise.

Rick

 

[Darkgael]

Great. Thank you.

 

[dledinger]

Pete,
That's what Davis told me. The Deerslayer will fit. I was going to order one next week for my GPR. They told me might just have to remove a little wood from the mortise.

Rick

I didn't have to do anything for the trigger, straight drop in.