GPR Under Lug Broke OFF

[Jailcop]

My percussion Lyman GPR's 2nd under lug that was spot welded to the barrel broke off. I took the barrel to a so call gun tinker who drilled the legs of the under lug and tapped the barrel. Sounds great and would have worked fine but he didn't tap the holes in the center. The under lug is off center and the rear hole is off to one side. He said where the weld bead was on the barrel it made the drill drift off center. Is there anyone out there that can reweld the under lug on the barrel or re-install a under lug by cutting a dove tail type under lug?
Thanks
Jim [email protected]

 

[Slenk]

Jim if you look under the gun builder tutitorial you will be able to do this yourself . I do all my own underlugs .
If you want more help E-mail me
Slenk

 

[Cherokee]

I would cut off the one in the wrong spot move it wher eyou want and migweld it.

 

[Jim-Iowa]

I would be mighty aprehensive of welding on the barrel. On another site Don Getz was recently mentioning someone had brazed lugs on one oh his barrels and he was never able to get the warp out I don't know how much heat it takes to warp a barrel and would not care to find out.
I would see no probelm with dovetailing or soldering the lug on.
I take it you want the lug back in the same place?
You might want to put screws in the tapped holes and then cut the dovetail?

 

[Cherokee]

Welding wont hurt it one bit as long as someone isnt heating it up with a torch and then dunking it.
I have repaired modern centerfire barrels this way.
Lugs on modern rifles are welded on, pins are drilled and gas blocks hammered onto barrels.
As long as you know what it takes to really screw one up your fine.
I would be more concerned about how deep those holes were drilled for the stakes.

 

[lonewolf5347]

I would take it to a local auto body shop they have the mig welder and would take a few seconds to repair it :thumbsup:

 

[d.thomson]

Personaly I would tig weld it in place less heat to do this if this cant be done then I would use siver solder. brownels has a paste that helps to keep the heat in one place and not distort the metal around it. Mig welding using small gage wire .20 or .25 will probably work but I would be supper carfull about the heat being used ( not a nuff and you will get adhesion two mutch and you will get distortion) Tig welding would be my first choice, more heat control.

 

[bob308]

i would dove tail one on.if you are handy with a hack =saw and a file you should be able to make and put it on.

another option is to put in a staple like a lot of the origanels have.

 

[dlpowell]

If it was me, I'd buy a new barrel. Maybe contact Lyman to see what they recommend.

 

[Birddog6]

That is the First thing I would do, new or used, call Lyman & see what they say. You are out a phone call at the most & ya never know, they may say "Send it to us & we will repair it or give ya a new barrel". And if they don't, big deal, ya are out a phone call.......

Sure would be worth a try !
:thumbsup:

 

Hey Birddog6 has a great idea -- contact Lyman. Maybe they will cover the whole cost or send you a new barrel. This kind of thing should never happen to a Lyman. They make quality stuff.

 

[Jailcop]

:bow: Thanks for all the advice, I have emailed Lyman Products if I don't hear from them in a day or two I will call them. I will post their answer.
Jim

 

[bulletman]

I had that happen to me a year after I built the rifle...I called lyman, they said send it to them, and by gawd, they sent me a new barrel.Free