Welcome to the artistry of shooting a flint lock rifle,
@Benny8.
Watching the videos is good, but there is nothing better than going to the range with someone experienced in shooting a flint lock.
The first thing to be aware of is that real black powder is a necessity to successfully fire a flint lock. Sure, folks have used a kick start of 5 to 10 grains of black powder to ignite their substitute powder. But ultimately, most find the best performance with black powder only.
Good for you in that you have ordered the black English flints from Track of the Wolf. Look through the accessories page for the tools you will find useful to knap the edge of the flint to keep it sharp. With sharp flints, you get more sparks and with more sparks, you get good ignition of the pan. If you have used a pick to make sure the flash channel from the touch hole to the powder is clear, then near instant ignition of the main charge is likely. You will need a strip of thin leather to hold the flint in the jaws of the hammer. I use a small wooden matchstick under the back edge of the flint to have more scraping of the flint along the face of the frizzen to get more sparks.
If your Traditions Deer Hunter Rifle is new, then your lock will likely benefit from a polishing of the moving parts. I haven't heard of many locks that don't benefit from some polishing of the rub points. It helps too, to take the lock apart using correct spring clamps and gently polishing the tumbler axle, the sear lever where it contacts the trigger lever and the bolt that fastens the frizzen to the lock plate. Look for signs of internal rubbing of parts between the lock and the wood. Lubricate the threads on the little bolts. Be especially wary of the fly in the tumbler. It is a very small part and can be lost very quickly.
A pan primer is a nice device to put a relatively precise charge of 4f powder in the pan. Most pan primers are sized for best flow of powder with 4fg. I have several that clog up when used with 3fg powder. While 4fg powder is faster than 3fg when it comes to getting the main charge lit off, the difference in time is not really enough to make a difference. I would recommend 3fg powder for your main charge as well as the priming charge.
Proper fitting screwdrivers are a must when it comes to maintenance of the rifle for cleaning. Most of the installed screw and bolt heads are soft and can mar easily if an improper screwdriver is used.
You have not said what caliber your rifle is nor what projectiles you have been using for your past hunts. Whether it is a 45 or 50 caliber rifle, a patched round ball is adequate for having a successful hunt for white tailed deer in Pennsylvania. Or elsewhere for that matter. A round ball is also the projectile that will shoot best out of your rifle. It is ball placement that is critical and heavy conical bullets should not be relied on to have a successful hunt. The round ball for your rifle is likely to be a 0.440" or a 0.490" ball. Patching should be 0.015" washed pillow ticking. Prelubricated patches have a definite shelf life and are best lubricated shortly before loading. I cut my patches at the muzzle, but square or round pre-cut patches of 1" to 1 1/4" will work fine. Mink oil from Track of the Wolf is a good patch lubricant for hunting.
Get out and shoot your rifle. Develop an accurate on target load. Adjust the powder charge to get to hunting accuracy. You have been successfully hunting, so you know the ranges you have had success. These rifles are effective out to 75 to 100 yards. Most hunts will get you in the 30 to 50 yard range. That's what makes the traditional muzzle loading hunting so thrilling is the skills to get close for that effective shot placement.
