H&A underhammer

[hanshi]

IIRC, the mold that came with my H&A was .435" or something like that - still have it somewhere around here. I did find I could seat a .440" ball if the patch wasn't too thick. It was tight but that's the way I load anyhow.

 

[billymas]

I picked up a 45 today at a local shop. I removed the nipple and the thread depth is less than 1/4, not much meat there, but the nipple threads are 5/16 and would stick into the bore. there was a washer on it also. It is the heritage model

 

[nhmoose]

To me it sounds like a buba messed gun

 

[Billnpatti]

To me it sounds like a buba messed gun

I wouldn't call it "messed". Many nipples are just too long for the barrel wall thickness and that causes a problem. The previous owner just solved the problem in a different way. It may not be a perfect way but it must have worked and caused no permanent problems. In many instances, you will find that there is more than one way to skin a cat.

 

[billymas]

the gun is in good shape good bore,but inside the brass nipple shield, the surface of the barrl wall is lower than outside the shield, so it looks like i have about 4 threads for nipple to grab,? but looks factory done?

 

[F.G. Ford]

4 threads are about right! BUT, I would keep my powder charges under 200 grains of 4F :shocked2:
Fred

 

[hanshi]

Mine had a washer under the nipple, too. I ordered it new from the factory nearly 55 years ago. No problems, but you'll probably find 60 - 70 grains of 3F to work best. These rifles will blow the hammer back to halfcock and burn your arm with charges much heavier than that. Wear a long sleeve shirt!

 

[billymas]

yeah ,Ill keep my powder charges light, I dont need this one to hunt deer with ,I have plenty a muzzleloaders for that. I just wanted this one when I saw at the local vintage firearms shop, I couldnt pass it up. I could fix it though

 

[F.G. Ford]

I really think you should send that old clunker to me, and I will dispose it for you :grin: :wink:
Fred

 

[F.G. Ford]

Guess I'll have to measure as TOW lists both 1/4 x32 and 1/4 x 28 for underhammers.

An easy way to measure if you don't have a thread gauge, is to take anything that is a 1/4 inch, press it against the threads. Count the threads, if the count is 7, you have 28 threads per inch, if you have 8 threads, you 32 threads per inch.
You probably knew that already, but I thought I would throw in some of my GREAT knowledge, so that all else would know.
Please, please take good care of my gun. :hmm: :grin:
Fred

 

[Zonie]

I picked up a 45 today at a local shop. I removed the nipple and the thread depth is less than 1/4, not much meat there, but the nipple threads are 5/16 and would stick into the bore. there was a washer on it also. It is the heritage model

I don't know that people have noticed but they should take a look at standard hex nuts. Especially the thickness of them.

Standard hex nuts are thinner than the diameter of the thread they are made to fit.

Looking at nuts in the 1/4" and 5/16" range you will see that the thickness of it is about .78 or just a tad over 3/4 of the diameter of the thread.

The reason for this is, making the nut thicker than that doesn't add anything to its strength.

Now, taking a look at a nut for a 5/16" thread, the nut thickness is just about 1/4".

Since that is about equal to the wall thickness of your barrel, it will have just as much strength as a standard nut made to fit that thread size.

 

[Darkgael]

I know that this is an older thread. I have four underhammer pistols, three “boot” pistols from H&A and one from Bob Worthington at Greyhaven Arms.
I have wanted a rifle for a while and just acquired one. The only marking on it is “.50 cal.“ The barrel is 25 1/4 inch long. Shoots nicely at 50 yards.
I would like to put a tang sight on this rifle. Do any of you know where I might find one? I am looking to make my search easier.

 

[hanshi]

One thing's for certain, it's the most graceful and sleekest rifle, IMHO, and I say that even though I'm a Longrifle officianado. I like them and love my oldie.