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Hand rubbed finish

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greymount

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How do yo get that "hand rubbed" oil finish. I have used Tru-Oil, Chambers and Dem-Bart and as of yet have been unable to get that soft satin oil finish. Each of my finishes have a tendency to come out too glossy.
 
This is how it was explained to me. Use Watco Danish oil and flood the whole area the first time and the wood will soak it all in wipe a large amout on the second time and wipe off the extra..oh , yes let it dry over night between each coat. After the second coat dries steel wool it and apply another coat and let it dry, steel wool it off again then with a cloth rub in the last coat and it can have more coats than I described here. When all the coats that you want on are done it will give you the hand rub oil finish look you want. A rifle builder I know told me how to do this and it is what he uses on his rifles. Hope this helps and didn't confuse you..
 
Go to Woodcrafters and buy some pumice (not rottenstone, which is fine enough to put a high shine on a finish). The pumice comes in a tall cardboard cylinder with a shaker top like an oversized container of parmesan cheese or something. This is the stuff for rubbing out many things on a rifle. I wet a piece of denim with baby oil (mineral oil), dab it in the pumice, and rub lengthwise. This works far better for me than steel wool, which is too aggressive in my hands. It's good for brass, steel, finished wood, horn, etc.
 
Pure (with the emphasis on pure, not the Tung oil finish) Tung oil. Put on several thin hand rubbed coats. Later as you use the piece, occasionally rub in a thin coat. Very forgiving finish, same if you should skin it up, just renew by rubbing in some more Tung oil.

Danish oil is naught but a 50/50 mix of boiled (tain't really) linseed oil and paint thinner. When we did wood work some years ago we mixed our own by the gallons. Also, linseed oil will not water proof wood. (nor a tarp for shelter or a groundsheet)
 
I just finished the grips on a brass frame Gunnison and Griswold replica. I noticed that the Tru-Oil did have a tendency to get too glossy, but figured out a way to dull it down without resorting to scuffing the finish. Once you have a good base, just BARELY dampen your finger with the Tru-Oil and rub until dry. You get a nice satin finish that way. I am pleased with the result. I did not take the time to do that on the next pistol and it is too shiny. I need to work it over. :results:
 
Using Formby's Tung Oil or Tru-oil, apply 1/2 drop at a time with your fingertip & rub til dry = nonGloss finish. And if you want even less glass but smooth, after about 7-8 coats, rub the entire finish down with some 1000 grip paper from NAPA, do 7-8 more coats, rub down again, someplace between the 15th to 30th coat you will have all of the pores filled, no scratches, and rub it last with some 2000 grip paper & then take some gunstock wax & wax it & you will have the smooth dull hand rubbed finish with filled grain & yet used looking & the wood sealed well.

:results:
 
Using Formby's Tung Oil or Tru-oil, apply 1/2 drop at a time with your fingertip & rub til dry = nonGloss finish. And if you want even less glass but smooth, after about 7-8 coats, rub the entire finish down with some 1000 grip paper from NAPA, do 7-8 more coats, rub down again, someplace between the 15th to 30th coat you will have all of the pores filled, no scratches, and rub it last with some 2000 grip paper & then take some gunstock wax & wax it & you will have the smooth dull hand rubbed finish with filled grain & yet used looking & the wood sealed well.

:results:

Formby's Tung oil? I only see Formby's Tung Oil "Finish" for sale locally, and it is not pure tung oil, but a varnish.

There is a vast difference betwixt the two, pure tung oil is great, tung oil finish in MO is a horrible thing for applying to gun wood. I think Formby's states on the can their tung oil finish is for interior use only.
 
I use allot of Formby's tung oil. It works very well for me. As far as interior use, my guns go out hunting when ever I do. They also get dried off if they get wet. I don't leave my guns outside unless I am with them. Never a problem with maintaining the finish or the gun. I used to use Boiled Linseed Oil, that probably will not happen again. :results:
 
:m2c:If you like the tung oil finish, that is fine, but it is not tung oil, it is a tung oil based varnish. It is not even as good as teak oil finish , which contains tung oil and resins

If you read on the front of a can of Formby's Tung Oil Finish, it clearly states it is a varnish. :nono:It is misleading for one to call it tung oil, it is neither pure tung oil, nor a true oil of any type.
 
:agree:rich piecre, it is interresting that someone other than me knows of using "pumice" to put a finish on stocks. For ALL that don't know,"PUMICE" is how the top of the line $$$ rifles and $$$ shotguns are finish. Fine $$$ furniture also is done with PUMICE. One can also use corn storch or baby powder in a pinch. :thumbsup:
 
". Also, linseed oil will not water proof wood. (nor a tarp for shelter or a groundsheet)'

How 'bout that... seems like I heard that somewhere before... can't recall where though, I guess some old wives tales are slow to give way to reality.
 
I just bought a bottle of Hope's 100% Tung Oil at the local Meijers Store.
16 oz. cost me $7.97

They also make a Tung oil Varnish which the above is NOT.

Hope the info helps.
 
:agree:rich piecre, it is interresting that someone other than me knows of using "pumice" to put a finish on stocks. For ALL that don't know,"PUMICE" is how the top of the line $$$ rifles and $$$ shotguns are finish. Fine $$$ furniture also is done with PUMICE. One can also use corn storch or baby powder in a pinch. :thumbsup:

hey, Crazy- where are you from in NY state? I was born and raised in the Mohawk Valley.
 
Good price. I can no longer obtain locally, have to order online, and then pay shipping.
 
:sleep:Rich, The great tax area of Hudson Valley, Do you remember where that computer company IBM.
 

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