The current springs I am planning on would be for a matchlock build, so they would be far simpler and more forgiving than a flintlock mainspring. I have some options to avoid making springs, but I was considering the possibility to help learn the skills for future projects.
McMaster-Carr will be expensive as you will need to buy a larger piece of material than you will need - I know I buy from them. You might look at Brownells web site for smaller amounts or maybe Dixie Gun Works I've purchased from them in the past also.
Since you may have to do the temper by color you will need to go slowly to neutral/gray and stop there. Spring temper should be in the low 40's in Rc hardness and while that is even some beyond gray/neutral it would be easy to over heat so I would stop there. 725°f to 750°f is the ideal temp for springs from simple high carbon spring steels if done in an oven. Another good option is molten lead if you have a lead thermometer. Best if you can hold the spring under the surface for 10/15 minutes and then let it air cool.
Mostly, wedge-riveted maille was my thing. The most elaborate plate armour I did (and where I did heat treating) were 14th century "Wisby" gauntlets.
Thats rad!
Simplified V Springs, easy home tempering instructions, by Kit Ravenshear - Track of the Wolf
The master high end world class gunmaker and engraver, Jerry Huddleston, said Ravenshears' method of spring making was the worst he had ever seen advised and a waste of time and money. I would have to agree.
Yes, LRB has good info. I would suggest that you do your own experimentation with a sample of your chosen annealed spring stock, say 1/4" wide by 2" or 3" long. Heat the strip so that the heat varies from a dull red to a glowing orange along its length, then quench. Remember where the varied heats were located. Now, begin breaking the strip with pliers and a vise, at 1/4" intervals and examining the broken edges. If the break is grainy, the steel was too hot. When the break is totally smooth, without any graininess, that is the correct red heat for hardening, imprint that color into your brain. Now if the sample piece just tends to bend rather than snap off, your red heat was too cool. In my brain, "dull red" is too cool, as I want a "full red", the color that I am used to seeing at around 1400 to 1450 degrees, a I remove a piece from a temperature controlled furnace, having done this work for 50 years. Now take a 2nd sample piece, and fully harden it to your idea of the proper red heat. When cool, polish the piece and draw a range of tempering colors along its length, from a light straw, through amber, plum, full blue, light blue, and beyond. Now, begin flexing this sample piece to the point of breaking. The sample will fail at straw color, and fail at amber, and probably fail at plumb and full blue. When the color goes from light blue to grey, you will have your spring, at around 800 degrees. Your steel and your results may vary, and you will learn a lot for yourself.
1070 up through 1095 is good and economical spring steel. 1095 should be left to those with HT ovens. 5160 is a great steel also. Go to a site for knife makers supplies, you should find a variety. The hardening is pretty simple, it's the tempering that is tricky unless you can cook it at the right temperature range. Oil harden to start with. Use canola oil heated to 125/30°f, or buy commercial quench oil. Do not bother with other types of cooking oil. The best for 10xx steels which is Parks #50. It is made for quenching steel that is rated for water quench, but you won't get cracks or breaks, and you don't heat it unless the ambient temp is below 75°f. Here's a tip on hardening. You target heat is 1475°/to 1500° with 10xx steels. Common table salt melts at 1474°f. Work out a way to use that fact and you've got the correct hardening heat.
a lot of truth to that. The over abundance of information has been the main reason why i have been waffling on if I want to try making them. Might as well just go for it.
She’s a very good sport about all of this, overall.
