hardening the Frizzen

[Peter B]

I have been thinking about rehardening the frizzen on my Pedersoli to try and get a better spark off of it. I have the knowledge and the Kasinit to do the job with. I was wondering if anyone else had done this.

P

 

[Zonie]

Although I haven't used Kasenit on a frizzen I made a little write up on how to use it on a screw head.
You might want to look at
Hardening with Kasenit

The only thing I might change for a frizzen made from an unknown material like your Pedersoli's is I would oil quench it first and then check its hardness. If it is harder than your file then proceed to temper it at 400-450 degrees F.

After the oil quench if it is still fileable, then bring it back to red heat and water quench it. Then temper it at 400-450 degrees F (in your homes oven).

 

[LRB]

I would think that 450o might be a tad soft. I would suggest to temper at 375o for an hour, and then try it. Jim Chambers frizzens are done at that temp, and use a separate oven thermometer. Many home ranges are not accurate. Gas ranges are notorious for being inaccurate.

 

[CoyoteJoe]

I attempted to reharden a Pedersoli Blue Ridge frizzen, water quenched it and it cracked. It's quite a hassle to get parts. Several places say they have parts but they want to sell you a complete new lock or charge an outrageous fee to replace a simple part. Finally got a frizzen from Cabelas after talking to several folks there and explaining what a frizzen is.
I'd definitely heed Zonie's advice to oil quench.

 

[davy]

Thanx for that info ... kind sir! I have a Ped Frontier .. sparks just fine, so far .. but good to know beforehand should anything come up!
Mental note (or is that "METAL" note :hmm: ) quench in oil first! :grin:

Davy

 

[Zonie]

Davy: If the frizzen is made out of a oil hardening steel like the Siler, L&R, Davis and Pedersoli (based on Coyote Joe's comment), it is hardened clear thru.
If it once threw good sparks and it stops, I would look at the flint, or the possibility that some oil in on the frizzen face or the edge of the flint.
In other words, I wouldn't worry about Case hardening it.

If the frizzen was made out of a high carbon steel like 1095 it is also hardened clear thru and recarburizing with something like Kasenit will not help it.

If the frizzen is from one of the inexpensive locks which was made from a low carbon steel then re-carburizing it will improve its sparking.

Before considering recarburizing a frizzen, I would use a file to see if it was soft. If the file can't cut it, it should work with the right flint setup.

 

[davy]

Well as I said, mine seems to spark just fine to date ... no change in my future in that regard, unless something unforseen happens! This is my first (and not my last I guarantee it :grin: ) flinter, and I have much to learn about them .. but Ima willin boy! :thumbsup:

I have been very fortunate in becoming personal friends with John Hinnant, who is a very knowledgeble person when it comes to this business, as well as a very accomplished machinist ... many here may not know it, but he is also a Texas State Muzzleloading shooting champion ta boot .. many times running! I am well pleased to call him my friend!

I learn more everday on this site ... and appreciate all information here feely given from all the knowledgable folks on this site such as yourself Zonie ... Thanx guys! :hatsoff:

Davy

 

[Peter B]

I did the oil bath and the quenching with water and that thing fires every time now and throws a shower of sparks.

Now the D%^N mainspring broke and I am going to have to mortage my house to get a pedersoli mainspring.

P

 

[Slenk]

Try
Track of the Wolf for your mainspring . They had them and sear springs when I needed them.[url] http://www.trackofthewolf.com/categories/partList.aspx?catID=14&subID=148&styleID=1182[/url]
Hope this helps you
:thumbsup:
Slenk