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hawken 209 conversion

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mrbig31

Pilgrim
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This may be a silly question ,,but here goes,,I have a Cabela's .58 sporterized Hawken, does anyone make a 209 primer conversion for this gun (or can it be physically accomplished) I've never been to happy with the consistency of the traditional caps.
 
Have you tried the RWS Hot caps? Another thought would be to convert it to use musket caps. They claim these are 5 times hotter then the standard #11 caps. Personally I feel the RWS caps are every bit as hot as a musket cap.

In case you do convert to musket caps, the nipple thread will be; 6mm x .75... I don't know about 209 primer conversion, so I can't say one way or the other. Someone will probably come along with the answer.
 
Don't. A 209 is 10x the power of a #11 and ignites the whole charge instantly, giving a huge pressure spike. M/L are designed around 8,000 ft lbs of pressure. Modern rifles, shotguns and in-lines are 35,000 to 50,000 ft. lbs. The dastardly 209 system on a m/l is intended to ignite a solid propellent pellet, not loose grains (especially honest blackpowder).

If you're getting bad ignition, swap for a new nipple, make sure the hammer is hitting it square, make sure the channel is clear and free of oil before the first load, switch brands of cap.
 
If you're getting bad ignition, swap for a new nipple, make sure the hammer is hitting it square, make sure the channel is clear and free of oil before the first load, switch brands of cap.

Thet's some good advice indeed!! :thumbsup: :thumbsup:

YMHS
rollingb
 
[/quote]
if you go to the RWS put one of the brass cones around the nipple as the cap fragments...also use safety glasses. :imo: [/quote]

That too is good advise! I use the brass cone on my percussions because I don't always wear safety glasses. You are correct about eye protection, and it should never be taken lightly.

Buckster,,, What brand of caps are you using?
 
This may be a silly question ,,but here goes,,I have a Cabela's .58 sporterized Hawken, does anyone make a 209 primer conversion for this gun (or can it be physically accomplished) I've never been to happy with the consistency of the traditional caps.

#11 CCI Magnums have been outstanding for me in TC Hawkens
 
Everyone has a favorite cap, because it works good for them. Mine is RWS caps. Never a missfire, unless I messed up! Things like snapping a cap can dry the oil out of the flash channel, but it will leave it plugged up with cap depri.I have seen converstions to put a 209 primer on a T/C. IMHO what a joke! Now you had to unscrew this "cover" (which you could drop in the snow!) to remove or replace the cap. If your gun is not going off, look to a dirty flash channel, and use Hot Shot nipples and in MHO use RWS caps.
 
I have a small rifle primer conversion nipple I got on Ebay.
I bought it just to check it out and have no intention of using it.
I get great ignition with Remington #11 caps.
The small rifle primer nipple is 6mm x .75 thread and should fit your rifle because they are both made by Investarms.
The nipple is made by Accra-shot. I don't think they are manufactured any more.
It screws in like normal but has a cap with a firing pin in it that screws over the primer.
Pretty slick idea but as I said I don't intend to use it.
Email me if you are interested and we can work out a deal.

Huntin
 
If you are not getting consistant ignition, #1 you need to look at your cleaning and loading techniques. Just re-evaluate them.

Do you get miss fires within a string of shots when shooting at the range, (random miss fires) or is the problem with the first shot out of the gun after it's been cleaned?

As wisely mentioned, sometimes snapping a cap before loading does more harm than good. Better to take the nipple off and clean any remaining oil out of the flash channel by hand, if you are loading the rifle for a hunt.

If this is a drum & nipple ignition, make sure the hole in the nipple is not too tiny, and same for the flash channel through the drum and into the barrel.

Venting the drum will often work wonders.

Converting to primers will just cover up a problem and not really fix it.

Rat
 
guys on the forum solved my ignition problems with this little gem. make sure you have the hammer at half cock when you load. this will let the air in the barrell escape through the nipple and will push powder into the touch hole. i started doing it and haven't had a misfire since.
 
It's one of the tips in the back of the Dixie catalog. It says it will give you 100% ignition. I'm like you though, just seems like a place for water to get in if it is wet out.
 
Ah thin it wer ma third riffel, an it wer made by CVA back in 19 an 73. It had a drum 'n nipple on it an it wer partial ta misfirin. Ah drilled one o them little bittie holes in tha drum an it solvd tha problem.

Now, havin that hole in thar kud jus serve as a vent ta allow tha powder ta blow back up the flash hole inter tha drum better, Ah don't know but it did help a lot.

Cauz Ah lives in Arizonie, Ah don't hav ta worry to much 'bout water gettin inter ma load an that kud be a problim iffen ye lives whar it rains. :)
 
All the advise I read was sound. Have you considered switching powders. Black powder will ignite at 300 degrees F, Pyrodex at 600 degrees F. I am not sure at this time about Triple 7. Also consider a finer granulation of powder. Finer powder may be required to move into the ignition area directly under the nipple. Good Luck :thumbsup:
 
I think the other half of the theory is that crud will blow out the vent instead of back into the nipple, as the vent is clear and the hammer is sitting on the nipple.

I have one gun that is vented, and it's been real reliable over the years. But it has a bolster breech, not a drum and nipple. In wet weather I smear a little lube or grease in the hole to keep water our. Or sometimes stick a little feather in there.

Good call RidgeRoader, I hadn't considered if something other than black was being used. Indeed some guns are going to be most reliable with black powder.

RAT
 
This may be a silly question ,,but here goes,,I have a Cabela's .58 sporterized Hawken, does anyone make a 209 primer conversion for this gun (or can it be physically accomplished) I've never been to happy with the consistency of the traditional caps.
I believe that the Caps we get today are pretty weak compared to the original caps that folks had in the 1800s.
I don't believe the Caps we have today are really traditional, only problem folks had back then was if they got wet or fell off the nipple and had to be replaced. Never read or heard anything about them complaining about a consistency problem
 

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