Hawken snail question?

[Doug Lykins]

What is the real benefit, if any, of the snail vs the drum & nipple? The only thing I can see is the hole into the breech on the snail would be more toward the top as opposed to the side of the breech. Thoughts?

 

[Metalshaper]

the threaded shank of a drum is the weak link. They are vulnerable, especially the 1/4X 28 size, to the repeated hammer strikes if unsupported. Every instruction I have seen/heard concerning a drum emphasizes supporting the drum with the lock plate!!

A snail is constructed from a solid piece of steel and Theoretically is a stronger assembly.
and while it looks better to have it fitted tightly to the plate,< Hawken style > some gaps are allowable if you look at originals? there are examples of back-action lock, where the "snail" is unsupported!!
http://collectorebooks.com/jamesauction/kentucky/31699.htm
in this example, the tang section of the hooked breech is the only part touching the plate.. the actual snail assembly is unsupported..


anyway, hope this helps>

Resoect Always
Metalshaper/Jonathan

 

[necchi]

A couple things;
First off, today the term "snail Breech" can mean two things.
* The design of the outside of the breech near the nipple has a snail like shape to it.
* The internal flash channel begins at the nipple and curves like a snail to center of the breech plug and bottom of the barrel.
I think it may have come about as a type of mechanical improvement.
If a drum isn't supported properly by the lock plate, constantly being hit by the hammer can/could break the drum off at the barrel.
Years worth of being struck, years worth of lock removal for cleaning and the nature of all wood stock inlets drying and shifting around all add to loosening up of the drum/plate fit putting extra pressure on that threaded section of the drum.

So there's two things going on,
Strength of the breech itself and sending the flash in a more direct line to the rear of the charge,
:idunno:

 

[galamb]

The only thing I would add to the above two posts is, additionally, most designs incorporate a (flash fence - not sure of the correct term) that directs any powder/gas/bits of broken cap, upon firing, away from the face of the shooter.

On a drum/nipple system you can add a cup to accomplish this.

If you want the look of a drum and nipple, but also would like the functionality/safety/no 90 degree turns in the flash channel that you get with a snail you can go with "Ohio Patent Breech" from Pete Allan (sold at TOTW amongst other sellers).

It is totally cast/machined - so no threads to break off on the drum, plus you aren't drilling any holes in the side of a barrel which can be a safety issue, particularly in thin walled barrels (45 cal with 13/16" ATF comes to mind immediately).

I build with nothing but patent breeches - a safety thing on my part. Even a flinter gets a Hawken style flint breech and the flash hole gets drilled into the plug, not the wall of the barrel.

Anyhow, here's the Ohio patent (with a few notes that don't apply to this particular post).

 

[mikeinaz]

Wow! I have an Ohio rifle and the breech is exactly like your picture. I never noticed that extra metal on the top. Thanks for that bit of knowledge.

 

[galamb]

According to Pete that "extra bit" is to accommodate long nipple threads.

I have used this breech on a couple of occasions and filed most/all of it away.

As long as the nipple threads don't protrude into the drum channel, then all is good.

It does make for a super strong breech, particularly the drum part so no worries about snapping off a drum with the threads left in the barrel wall...