Hawken tang Screw position.

[Maverick3855]

Can someone tell Me the proper position of the front tang screw on a hawken?
I got a Track of the Wolf Hawken kit from a guy who believed he had messed it up.
I generally shoot flint but this gun has super premium curly maple and quality parts and the guy sold it for $200 believing it was ruined.
Actually the only thing he did wrong was get the buttplate about 1/16th out of whack which was fixed with a sliver of wood and a bit of micro bed.
He just seemed disgusted with it and got rid of it.
Anyway, I need to know the positon of the front tang screw.
From the few pictures I can find it appears it goes behind the lock plate screw and into the trigger plate, Is that correct?
Thanks
Dave

 

[lonewolf5347]

I would look at the trigger guard if it is threaded then the front tang screws goes threw the stock and into the trigger guard. I have a few older model t/c that the tang uses only 2 wood screws to hold the tang down. :thumbsup:

 

[Maverick3855]

This one is not threaded at all.
It is a semi inlet Track of The Wolf kit and is not drilled or tapped for the screw in trigger guard or any of the tang screws, Or any screws for that matter.
I did drill for the underrib and ramrod ferrules but used a blind rivet to attach that.
It looks as though this could be drilled in front of where the triggerguard needs to be drilled or behind it.
It has the early style straight triggerguard with a 1/4-28 thread at the nose to screw into the trigger plate (also not drilled or tapped).
I am most concerned as to the position to drill the tang for the front screw, The rear screw position is fairly obvious but I haven't drilled that yet either.
Dave

 

[Le Grand]

Hey Maverick, I really doubt that you are talking "T/C" when you asked your question. Yes, on an authentic Hawken, the forward tang screw goes down and into the front of the trigger plate. It goes through the trigger plate about 1/2" forward of where the trigger guard threads into the trigger plate, from the bottom. Or, you could say that forward tang screw goes through the trigger plate just about as far forward as the
trigger guard bow extends. And, it does sound like you got a good buy. Tell us more about it. Le Grand

 

[Maverick3855]

Thats what I needed to know.
As far as the gun it is an in the white 54 caliber 1"across the flats barrel (Green Mountain I believe)
The guy I got it from had some German silver parts which I sold on Ebay and replaced with all iron.
It was a Track kit as the invoice for the original parts was in the box so it was easy to get the proper parts in all metal.
It has an extremely nice curly maple stock which he did some inletting on for the buttplate.
He got the LOP correct but cut about 1/16 too deep for the upper part of the buttplate.
He thought he had ruined it and I told him it was repairable but he was just disgusted with himself.
I put a wood shim in and glass bedded a couple of spots and after staining will just lightly airbrush over that area with a black or dark brown stain and You will never see it.
It's really a nice kit.
Like I said i don't generally shoot percussion but for the price and the quality of parts I Will make an exception.
I went to Tracks website and the parts alone are over $600.
Nice kit really.
Maverick

 

[Le Grand]

Maverick, That does sound like a nice kit. With the 1" barrel it might be Track's "Kit Carson" rifle. Bein' up in Montana, you should know some other Hawken fans. Anyway, keep us posted on how it goes together. Le Grand

 

[grey8833]

Maverick:
The TOTW has a nice set of plans for that kit. PLANS-HAWKEN, $5.50. Shows locations of bolts and most everything else. Cheap info.

Mike

 

[faw3]

Ya beat me to it!! Yes the plans sure can help! Fred :hatsoff:

 

Here is a top view of where the tang bolts should enter through the tang. The front tang bolt should thread in to the trigger bar just ahead of where the trigger guard threads into the bar. This usually puts the bolt at a slight backward angle because you want the bolt head to be square with the top of the tang both the front bolt and the rear bolt.

 

Here is another pic of an original English double gun with the same set up as a Hawken.

 

[Maverick3855]

Thank you for all the responses.
That is exactly the info I was looking for!
I'm tooling up here in a few minutes.
Thanks again

 

[rabbit03]

Hey Maverick great post and questions. Why not save your self alot of anguish and just throw all that junk in a box and send it to me COD and I can give you your money back for what you have invested.

Just trying to help out a fellow muzzleloader! :blah:

rabbit03

 

[Maverick3855]

Well Shucks!
I'm about 85% done now!
Maybe next time
Got the trigger plate, Tang screws, Lock screw and toeplate/buttplate installed.
I was heating up the entry thimble to bend it and the dang thing fell into two pieces!
I didn't realize it was soldered!
Cant get it back together so I'm standing still till I can order another!
I have had it almost a year so one more month aint gonna make a difference.

 

You can solder it back together and save you the wait and the money. Get ya some good solder antimony and tin mix and the right flux. Flux and tin both parts and hold them together with a pair of needle nose pliers while you wave it over the tip of the flame. When you see the solder run remove the heat and air cool for about 30 secs then quinch in warm water. Bingo!!! You're ready to inlet your brand new entry pipe. Easy as falling off a bike for the very first time.