I have fixed several muzzleloaders and about 6 modern firearm stocks with Brownells Stock Pin repair kit and Devcon 2 ton epoxy, slow set and a few clamps and some pieces of leather for clamping.
You get everything ready, epoxy mixed, and apply a liberal amount on both pieces to be joined. Clamp together, then you use one of the drill bits, ( usually use the larger bit and pins) and drill probably two holes at as close to 90° as you can to the break all the way through the stock from bottom to top. The pins are 2 1/2" long so you will probably have to drill one hole from the bottom of the wrist and one from the top to get as much of the pins into the wood. The pins are threaded and and you use a small variable speed hand drill to screw pins into the holes with a little epoxy on them. The one pin will be exposed on the top of the wrist so drill the hold as close to center of the stock. Measure you pins as close as you can if they are not going all the way through the stock and mark them with sharpie so you don't screw them in too far and pop a piece of wood out on the opposite side of the wrist. When the pins are screwed in as far as needed, put a couple of c-clamps on the wrist using the leather to protect the wood and leave the gun set at least 24 hours, hacksaw or cut pin off as close to the stock as possible without damaging the stock, and dress down to the stock with a fine file. I usually put some painters masking tape on the stock to keep from scratching the stock around the pin. You will have one small brass pin showing on the top of the wrist like it was meant to be there for decoration.
This is how I have done most but the all thread is a great idea and I have don this on a couple of shotguns that the grain was a little weird to try and pin.
HERE IS THE LINK TO THE PIN KIT---- Stock repair Pins from Brownells
MIKE
You get everything ready, epoxy mixed, and apply a liberal amount on both pieces to be joined. Clamp together, then you use one of the drill bits, ( usually use the larger bit and pins) and drill probably two holes at as close to 90° as you can to the break all the way through the stock from bottom to top. The pins are 2 1/2" long so you will probably have to drill one hole from the bottom of the wrist and one from the top to get as much of the pins into the wood. The pins are threaded and and you use a small variable speed hand drill to screw pins into the holes with a little epoxy on them. The one pin will be exposed on the top of the wrist so drill the hold as close to center of the stock. Measure you pins as close as you can if they are not going all the way through the stock and mark them with sharpie so you don't screw them in too far and pop a piece of wood out on the opposite side of the wrist. When the pins are screwed in as far as needed, put a couple of c-clamps on the wrist using the leather to protect the wood and leave the gun set at least 24 hours, hacksaw or cut pin off as close to the stock as possible without damaging the stock, and dress down to the stock with a fine file. I usually put some painters masking tape on the stock to keep from scratching the stock around the pin. You will have one small brass pin showing on the top of the wrist like it was meant to be there for decoration.
This is how I have done most but the all thread is a great idea and I have don this on a couple of shotguns that the grain was a little weird to try and pin.
HERE IS THE LINK TO THE PIN KIT---- Stock repair Pins from Brownells
MIKE
The word has morphed even further into "Farbish" which is an adjective, "Farby" that can be an adjective or an adverb, "Farbfest" which describes an event with little or no regard for authenticity, "Farbelicious" meaning a food that is not period correct for the season or location or time period, but we eat and enjoy it anyway, "Farbarossa" meaning one who unerringly defends inauthentic items even when shown it did not exist in the period - and the list goes on and on. BTW, authentic re-enactors coin and use many of these terms to even make fun of ourselves. 
