Help choosing my first flintlock

[Grizzly Adams]

Again, you're not "wrong" in wanting a .58.

Being in TN and wanting a classic TN rifle isn't wrong either. I love that particular style, though it is post Rev War. I happen to think a TN rifle in .40 is a classic combination, but that's my opinion...

...I should think that a stout load from anything larger than a .50 would be rather hard on the slender wrist one finds on a classic TN stock. But if you want a .54 or .58 then go with something like a "Southern Rifle" or "Virginia rifle" in iron with the more robust stock.



LD

I am a fan of TNs in .40 as well.
:grin:

As for the thin wrists, you ever look closely at somebody seating a ball on the powder of a thin wrested gun? Know whatcha see? Flex. It is one thing to have that happen when loading, but another to compound that with impact and shock. Not to mention, the drop of the stock makes a fine lever on the wrist.

 

[fleener]

Going with a pre carve kit rifle will keep you close t o historically correct. Also my opinion is to get the best piece of wood you can afford. If you spend all that time, blood, sweat and tears on the rifle it should be a nice piece of wood

Fleener

 

[MountainEMTIV]

Honestly the only thing I want different then a historically correct rifle is for the barrel to be a little shorter (36") and in either .54 or .58

Is the wrist on a Virginia style rifle strong enough to handle those calibers?

 

[don hepler]

I shoot a "Late Virginia", that's a 50 cal. but I have seen a lot of rifles in 54 and 58 with similar size wrist. However, the one's that I know, are shooting some pretty light loads. Several of the Pennsylvania schools of style seem to all be small in the wrist, as most long rifles are.

I know a 36 inch, sounds hunter friendly, but I think you would grow to love a 42, especially if it's a swamped barrel. I'm a short person, but I've grown to appreciate a long slender rifle.

 

[jethro224]

Correct me if I'm wrong, but I'm getting the idea that you don't have much hands-on experience with longrifles. If that is the case, my recommendation would be to try and actually handle some of the different styles. Shoot a few if possible. Then make your decision.
Tip Curtis' shop is in TN. Maybe you're close enough to go for a visit. Maybe even pick up some parts... You'd be amazed at what he has in there.
Or find a local shooting club and go hang out there during a shoot. Talk to the members and tell them what you have in mind. They will more than likely be happy to talk your ear off about their rifles. They might even offer you a chance to shoot a few.

 

[MountainEMTIV]

You are correct to assume that I'm new to longrifles...

Tip is about a 3 hour drive for me, but if I'm ever towards Nashville I'll definitely try to stop by.

 

[jethro224]

It would be worth the drive. Tip has a large inventory of guns, finished and in-the-white, and parts. He's a good guy in my experience too. You could handle several different style rifles and smoothbores and maybe get some good advice.

Realize, too, that a "kit" like you are talking about is really more like a pile of parts with a WHOLE lot of work to be done before it is a gun.
That work will take a lot of time invested. And no instruction sheet.

Do consider hadden west's suggestion of an in-the-white gun to get your feet wet. Then you'll have a nice, shootable rifle in a fraction of the time. You can still put a bunch of work into an in-the-white gun and turn it into something very nice. It's like a kit but the really tricky parts have been done.

Make the second one a pre-carve kit and really take your time on it. Maybe by the 3rd one you'll be building from a blank.

 

[MountainEMTIV]

Yes sir I understand the there's a lot of work to do to get the kits finished, only part I'm not sure about, is drilling the holes for the pins.

 

[silly goose]

, only part I'm not sure about, is drilling the holes for the pins. [/quote]


If that's the only part your not sure about, jump right in.

 

[Loyalist Dave]

That's a really good point....test fire some before you buy parts. Your desire for a shorter barrel might be a tad different after you've shot some of the rifles. Not to mention your appreciation for recoil depending on the curve and width of the butt area on the stock.

LD

 

[MountainEMTIV]

Talk to me about felt recoil, I've shot a few modern .50 muzzleloaders, but never a longrifle. I still plan on shooting and handling some before I start buying parts.

After thinking and sleeping on it I'm just going to stick with the longer length rifles in either .45 or maybe .50, and not hog hunt with them as I usually run into a bunch and muzzleloaders really aren't the best option.

 

[Dane]

A properly placed .45 will put down any hog. Go for it!!

 

[Snakebite]

If you haven't yet, check out some of the good books or videos on building. There will be some good processes for drilling holes and everything else in building.

Homer Dangler has a good video as does Jim Chambers. They are not Tenn rifles, but the processes are the same.

"The Art of Building the Pennsylvania Longrifle" is a good book. TOW has it along with several others.

 

[don hepler]

I'd be all over them hogs, with my flintlock, if I had a chance. I'd carry a big handgun, with me.

If I was only 3 hours from Tip Curtis, I'd be there the first chance I got.

 

[MountainEMTIV]

Going to see Tip Monday, hopefully learn a thing or two

 

[jethro224]

:thumbsup: I think you'll be glad you did.

Bring lots of $. He has stuff you can't live without.
Or... don't bring any $ 'cause he has stuff you think you can't live without. :haha:

 

[Rifleman1776]

Talk to me about felt recoil

As a general rule, ml rifles do not have unpleasant recoil. e.g. a .45 with prb and moderate loads of 45 to 65 gr. will give a little thump. After a couple shots you won't even notice it. Bigger caliber rifles are usually heavier and also don't punish you. But, if you are going for whoomper-stomper loads in a .54 to .62 or more, be prepared for some very noticable recoil. "felt" will depend on your size and build and style of the rifle. For 99.99% of your shooting, recoil will not be an issue. For hunting T-Rex, those loads will give substantial recoil. :shocked2: But, who cares? :wink:

 

[MountainEMTIV]

Well I'm 6'3" 240lbs, but my shoulders (among other joints) aren't the greatest after being 366 lbs since I 14 :redface:...
so I'm really thinking about smaller calibers, would a .54 be punishing with moderate hunting loads?

 

[Critter Getter]

I'm 6'1" and 217 lbs. I'm a wimp when it comes to recoil. I don't like it and see no reason to punish myself with it when a giant corn fed Iowa Whitetail will be my main quarry. I have 4 different flintlocks and enjoy a Virginia style .45 caliber for its light recoil. Big enough to take out the lungs of a deer and small enough to head to the squirrel woods with careful shot placement. Now if I was going to hunt elk my .54 would be in my hands. I tend to practice with the .45 the most! Greg.

 

[Twisted_1in66]

Hey Zonie,

So that explanation about rifling depth and twist rate brings something to mind. If the shallow rifling was better for the conicals, could that be overcome by using a patch of the conical instead of just lubing it? Not that I'm going to go out and shoot them; I'm fine with patched round ball. But sounds like if you can get that "round ball rifling" filled up with a patch, the conical might work in a 1:56 or 1:66 twist?

Twisted_1in66 :thumbsup:
Dan