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help! flash in pan...no boom
- Thread starter LtGeorge
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Yes, tell us more. e.g. make of lock, size of touch hole, type of powder you are using both for main charge and primer.
That's pretty thin information to go on. First off, are you CERTAIN there is powder in the barrel. Dry balling happens to everyone, so don't be ashamed if that's the case. As a Range Officer, I see it more often in a year than you would imagine.
Has the gun ever fired? What was done between the last firing and the pan flashing?
The only thing that can keep the heat from the pan igniting the main charge is a blockage in the touch hole, a build up of fouling or a lack of powder. Often substitute powder won't go off even if the pan is flashing. Could a piece of a cleaning patch be blocking the path to the powder?
Poke some fine powder thrlugh the touch hole. If the breech area is dry, that should push the ball out.
The only thing that can keep the heat from the pan igniting the main charge is a blockage in the touch hole, a build up of fouling or a lack of powder. Often substitute powder won't go off even if the pan is flashing. Could a piece of a cleaning patch be blocking the path to the powder?
Poke some fine powder thrlugh the touch hole. If the breech area is dry, that should push the ball out.
Lets assume that this problem is in reference to the new out of the box Lyman GPR that you just received. Lets assume that you cleaned it carefully to remove all the storage grease that is likely left in the bore and you ran a pipe cleaner through the touch hole to be sure that was clear. The cleaning should have included a flushing of the barrel in soapy water. At that time you should have been able to see a stream of water flowing through the touch hole. Then it was dried with several dry patches. You may have used a dry patch wrapped around a small 0.30 cal brush to dry the patent breech plug. Once all that drying is done it would be time to try to see if a pan flash will ignite a blank charge with no ball loaded. A blank charge will leave a lot of fouling in the bore, but a wipe with a lightly dampened cleaning patch and the brush in the patent breech should clean things up for the live firing. Run the pick through the touch hole.
hey all sorry for the thin info I was usuing the cell,
Firstly yes I cleaned the barrel, though I may do it again tonight.
Yes the there was a main charge of pyrodex 3f, im also using that in the pan.
Im getting basically constant ignition in the pan, have taken the touch hole screw out and cleaned it thoroughly.
The gun was fired by the PO a handfull of times
Sorry I dont know the size of the touch hole but ill try firing some balles rounds in there. Thanks for the brainstorming, let us know what other info you need
Firstly yes I cleaned the barrel, though I may do it again tonight.
Yes the there was a main charge of pyrodex 3f, im also using that in the pan.
Im getting basically constant ignition in the pan, have taken the touch hole screw out and cleaned it thoroughly.
The gun was fired by the PO a handfull of times
Sorry I dont know the size of the touch hole but ill try firing some balles rounds in there. Thanks for the brainstorming, let us know what other info you need
jamesthomas
70 Cal.
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Yep, thats your problem right there. Pyrodex is very hard to get to go off in a flintlock. The spark is really not hot enough to get pyrodex go off reliably. I'm surprised your able to get the pan to go off.
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I'm pretty new to "flintlocking" myself but picked up a little trick from an experienced friend that I modified a bit and has greatly enhanced my ignition reliability.
I made up a soft steel, black wire pick that just fits the flash hole diameter. I round of the end that goes through to a hemisphere shape and wound a circular coil like one does rope on a boat deck for the handle. It is just long enough to go in the flash hole, across the barrel to the far side and then extends the other direction, across the pan with the coil handle just outside for easy grasping.
I put the pick in the hole while loading the arm and when ready to fire pull the pick out insuring a clean ,foul free flash hole each time.
In removing it after loading it cause the column to de-compact a bit where the pick body was in the powder column making it easier to light the main charge. It also serves as a reminder that the gun is charged when it is removed.
You may want to give it a try and see if it helps with your ignition reliability.
Actually I suppose it also serves as a kind of safety as it blocks the flash hole rather completely from any spark should one find it's way into the pan area accidentally. MD
I made up a soft steel, black wire pick that just fits the flash hole diameter. I round of the end that goes through to a hemisphere shape and wound a circular coil like one does rope on a boat deck for the handle. It is just long enough to go in the flash hole, across the barrel to the far side and then extends the other direction, across the pan with the coil handle just outside for easy grasping.
I put the pick in the hole while loading the arm and when ready to fire pull the pick out insuring a clean ,foul free flash hole each time.
In removing it after loading it cause the column to de-compact a bit where the pick body was in the powder column making it easier to light the main charge. It also serves as a reminder that the gun is charged when it is removed.
You may want to give it a try and see if it helps with your ignition reliability.
Actually I suppose it also serves as a kind of safety as it blocks the flash hole rather completely from any spark should one find it's way into the pan area accidentally. MD
Others beat me to it. Yes, that is your problem. Use only real bp in a flintlock.
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Good luck with the new rifle. You are definitely one the right path with real BP. The fake stuff just doesn't work with most flinters. BP is becoming harder to find in local markets, because of the exorbitant license fees associated selling "explosives". The fake stuff is labeled as a propellant, and doesn't require the license. TOW and powderinc.com are both good sources for mailorder BP. I'm not advertising for either, (though I have used both successfully) just pointing out a good direction.
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Grandpa Ron
45 Cal.
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If you read the Pyrodex bottle it will tell you to use 5 grains or so of black powder under the main change in a flint lock.
Do not ask how I know this! :wink:
The simple fact is the ignition temp of the subs is about twice that of black powder. A little back powder under the charge and you can at least use up the Pyrodex.
American Pioneer Powder is better but still higher than black powder.
Good luck
Do not ask how I know this! :wink:
The simple fact is the ignition temp of the subs is about twice that of black powder. A little back powder under the charge and you can at least use up the Pyrodex.
American Pioneer Powder is better but still higher than black powder.
Good luck
TOW, as a source of BP was a non-starter for me a few months ago; lots of "fumbling on the phone" with the finisher being the third call when I was told that BP would be 2 months in coming. I like TOW and buy virtually all of my "stuff" from the business. I have been told that TOW's "problem" with BP supply is that when the powder is "in", 800,000 people in the MN Twin Cities know it and guys like me who live 150 miles away cannot get to the store fast enough (open 1PM - 5PM) to score some powder and perhaps some fault is mine in that I wanted to drive for a personal pick-up to avoid shipping/hazmat fees as well as to do some in-store shopping. I wound up buying from Powder Inc. - got immediate service, next-day shipping and was happy with the personable experience - typical Arkansas friendly service. baxter.
