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Carson1023

32 Cal.
Joined
Sep 2, 2011
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I could not find any maker marks on the gun (I have not taken the gun apart). The name on it is "William Arlington", no clue if that was the owner or maker... No info has been found by myself.. Just wondering if anyone has any tips as to where I may be able to find one. And any other info would be much appreciated (age,style,authenticity,etc..)

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It won't let me add the other image on this post, I will post again with the third image.
 
Will take note of that. Sorry about that though, but whenever I added more than two or three pictures in one post, for some reason it would not put the actual pictures of some of them, and just links... I changed nothing, so the code should have been correct..
 
Carson1023 said:
Will take note of that. Sorry about that though, but whenever I added more than two or three pictures in one post, for some reason it would not put the actual pictures of some of them, and just links... I changed nothing, so the code should have been correct..
I'm not saying you did, but it sounds like you may have copied the wrong code. :wink:
 
I'll try not to mess it up next time. Anyways, any ideas on how I can get some info on this firearm?? Seems like either I did a bad job at providing quality pics or something, or nobody knows what this thing is.. Lol.
 
Looks 1850's to me, but there's no precision in that. I would also guess Belgian. The name is as likely to be a retailers name as anything. The stock is nicely shaped.

Next step is to take off the barrels. Push out the key in the fore end, and the barrels should lift up and unhook at the breech.

There will be proof marks (and other marks) on the flats under there. These tell a fair bit. There is a link with a considerable list of proof marks for percussion guns on this site. A few folks here are good at interpreting them.

If that doesn't yield any result, there are some other potential resources.
 
Take the barrel off...there will be marks underneath that will tell you where it was made.Post some pics of the marks when you do.
 
GreenMt said:
Looks 1850's to me, but there's no precision in that. I would also guess Belgian. The name is as likely to be a retailers name as anything. The stock is nicely shaped.

Next step is to take off the barrels. Push out the key in the fore end, and the barrels should lift up and unhook at the breech.

There will be proof marks (and other marks) on the flats under there. These tell a fair bit. There is a link with a considerable list of proof marks for percussion guns on this site. A few folks here are good at interpreting them.

If that doesn't yield any result, there are some other potential resources.

Wow, nice post. Lots of good and helpful info. And as you and the other poster commented, I will definitely take the gun apart and see what I can find. I'll post up pics as soon as I can. My thanks to both of you.
 
Alright, I took the gun apart and I happened to run across some markings on the underside of the barrel. Here they are.

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I do not know if the star has any significant purpose, or if it is just some odd wear.. :idunno:
 
The manufactured gauge is 13.
The complex mark with a crown on top is a proof mark, but I couldn't identify it from the bluebook of European Proof Marks (you can google this). It's partly that I'm not great on proof marks, and it's hard to make out the marks in the photo (old eyes). You might fare better. JV Puleo may chime in, he pretty good on the proofs.
 
Thank you for your reply. I wasn't quite sure what the numbers were for, so thank you for clearing that up. Also thanks for trying to id the proof marks, hopefully someone can find them.
 
Thanks once again. I was curious as to what quality of gun this was. it's always nice to know what you have.
 
I noticed the "fine laminated steel" in your post. Virtually all original percussion doubles are laminated steel. Some are laminated in a Damascus Steel pattern and some more simply (I recently saw a Westley Richards in simple laminated steel). What this means is that the barrels were made by welding a steel/iron ribbon around an iron rod in a helical pattern. It was possible to make the barrels much lighter in this way, and therefore a quick gun for wing-shooting.

When "smokeless powders" came in, quite a lot of laminated barrels blew up. This was not because laminated barrels are bad, but because, a. smokeless powders produce much higher pressures than BP, and folks tried out smokeless powders; b. some users didn't translate loading procedures well (which would have been hard to do). There were very nasty accidents, and laminated (or Damascus) got a very bad name.

Recently, there has been a renaissance in Damascus. Some careful research (publicized by Oscar Gaddy) has shown that Damascus is surprisingly strong, and that well preserved Damascus barrels are shootable--with reasonable care and loads. One gun that was tested spewed smoke through an open pit-hole, but they couldn't get the barrel to actually fail.

However, before considering shooting any laminated gun, it should be inspected by a gunsmith who is fully conversant with Damascus/laminated--not a common breed. Most smiths will say "If it's Damascus I advise you not to shoot it." Some will say, "My insurance company will never let my say that any Damascus gun is safe to shoot." A few will explain, "Damascus is only reasonable to shoot with so much bore pitting, so much surface damage, as so much minimal wall thicknesses at various distances from the breach. Your gun is X, Y, Z, which is unsafe (on one end) a reasonable risk (at the other end) for these reasons, or somewhere in the middle.

All these original guns are load enough to be used with considerable discression.
 
Good heads up! I wasn't planning on shooting this particular gun, but for future reference this post is a great thing to read and learn from. Thanks. I wasn't aware that this type of barrel had that bad of a reputation.
 
At first I thought those may be Birmingham proofs but...I don't thinks so....your pictures are just off enough...that identification is hard..... Can you try and get a better pic. With proof marks like that it should be an easy ID.
 
I can try, but the marks are just rather unclear at eye view also. :cursing: But, yes I will try.
 
Alright well, I took some pics from a significantly closer view. Anyone know what the "PW" means? Anyways, hopefully they help..

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