Help identify this
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Griz44Mag
70 Cal.
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Looks like the engraving was done with an electric pencil....
Maybe a common Italian made customized by the final seller?
Maybe a common Italian made customized by the final seller?
Griz44Mag
70 Cal.
- Joined
- Nov 12, 2017
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- 4,326
- Reaction score
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- Location
- Republic of Texas, District of Krum
Looks like something was inscribed into the wood on the edge near the trigger under the "Identification" plate.
Can you get a closeup of that area?
Can you get a closeup of that area?
8 BORE
50 Cal.
A nice looking rifle. What ever it is.
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WOW! Ya got me stumped on this one? Love the patchbox. I’m not gonna try and guess? Not a bad looking rifle my friend.
Respectfully, Cowboy
Respectfully, Cowboy
Is that 6408 anywhere else on the rifle?
8 BORE
50 Cal.
Maybe date it was made June 4, 2008. ????????
8 BORE
50 Cal.
Is the trigger a set trigger ?
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I have a similar rifle made by the same company. I uses the same components, but the stock shape is a little differnt and it is not engraved. It is imported by FIE back in the 70s (I bought mine new in 1973). I have not been able to identify the actual maker. It is a good reliable shooter, but is not a copy of any particular original. I still have mine, although I've not shot it in many years.
Looks like a lot of other Italian/Spanish rifles. Could have been a kit, or perhaps it was made for 'Marbles', which may be a sports shop or distributor. Usually there are a bunch of proof stamps on the barrels, and sometimes the maker's mark is with them; maybe on the bottom flat? The engraving is likely personal embellishment, or it was prize at a shoot or gun show and the 'Armory' etc memorializes that. Lots of possibilities.
I checked and it is just the markings in the wood grain, no engravings
I am new to BP , so I am going to guess at this . The hammer has two positions that it sets at . Half way back and then full way back. Both can be released by pressure on the trigger.
Just a few more pictures. I might be posting it for sale soon if I can determine a value.
Last edited:
Marble's Gladstone Mich. is the famous manufacturer of gun sights and has been in business since 1892.
Griz44Mag
70 Cal.
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It's a cool looking rifle.
Heck, I'll match that first offer and up it by 10 bucks. How does $160.00 sound???
LOL, OK, but if you do decide to sell, I would be interested.
Heck, I'll match that first offer and up it by 10 bucks. How does $160.00 sound???
LOL, OK, but if you do decide to sell, I would be interested.
Those are Italian proof marks.
If the hammer is pulled back about half way the lock should go into a "half cock" condition. Half cock is a safety position that is supposed to prevent the hammer from falling when the trigger is pulled.
Pulling the hammer further back, the lock should go into a "full cock" position. In this condition, pulling the trigger should release the lock and cause the hammer to fall.
If your locks half cock position doesn't prevent the trigger from releasing the lock there is something very wrong with it.
It might be that the sear that engages the half cock and full cock position can't move easily because someone has overtightened the screw that holds it or, the notch that the sear is supposed to engage with is broken.
To describe what is happening, there is a semi-round part inside the lock that the hammer is screwed to called the "tumbler". It is the part with the half cock and full cock notches in it. The "sear" is a movable part with a narrow, pointed nose on it that engages these notches.
The half cock notch is supposed to have a small cut in it that just allows the nose of the sear to fit snuggly down into it. It has a "wall" that prevents the nose of the sear from slipping out or off of it.
If this "wall" is broken there won't be anything to keep the nose of the sear from slipping off of the half cock notch.
That is big time trouble because whenever the gun is loaded with a percussion cap on the nipple any blow from the hammer can cause the gun to fire.
You might want to remove the lock from the gun and see what is happening inside it when the hammer is cocked.
To do this, place the hammer at half cock and remove the two screws that are going thru the plate on the side opposite the lock.
You may need to loosen the screw at the rear of the barrel that holds it into the stock.
With these screws removed the lock should pull out of the stock. Be careful. Don't get your fingers near the hammer when you do this. If the sear is bumped, the hammer might fall, crushing your finger if it is in the way.
If the hammer is pulled back about half way the lock should go into a "half cock" condition. Half cock is a safety position that is supposed to prevent the hammer from falling when the trigger is pulled.
Pulling the hammer further back, the lock should go into a "full cock" position. In this condition, pulling the trigger should release the lock and cause the hammer to fall.
If your locks half cock position doesn't prevent the trigger from releasing the lock there is something very wrong with it.
It might be that the sear that engages the half cock and full cock position can't move easily because someone has overtightened the screw that holds it or, the notch that the sear is supposed to engage with is broken.
To describe what is happening, there is a semi-round part inside the lock that the hammer is screwed to called the "tumbler". It is the part with the half cock and full cock notches in it. The "sear" is a movable part with a narrow, pointed nose on it that engages these notches.
The half cock notch is supposed to have a small cut in it that just allows the nose of the sear to fit snuggly down into it. It has a "wall" that prevents the nose of the sear from slipping out or off of it.
If this "wall" is broken there won't be anything to keep the nose of the sear from slipping off of the half cock notch.
That is big time trouble because whenever the gun is loaded with a percussion cap on the nipple any blow from the hammer can cause the gun to fire.
You might want to remove the lock from the gun and see what is happening inside it when the hammer is cocked.
To do this, place the hammer at half cock and remove the two screws that are going thru the plate on the side opposite the lock.
You may need to loosen the screw at the rear of the barrel that holds it into the stock.
With these screws removed the lock should pull out of the stock. Be careful. Don't get your fingers near the hammer when you do this. If the sear is bumped, the hammer might fall, crushing your finger if it is in the way.
Zonie is right. The half-cock position of the hammer is a "safety", and definitely should not be able to be fired from that position (going of 1/2 cocked). I
f you do put it up for sale, disclose that information and price it accordingly. At the least, it will need a part replaced, possibly the whole lock. I
f you aren't knowledgeable with muzzleloader locks, it may be better to sell it as is rather than take it apart.
BTW, Marbles started out in 1890's selling pocket axe, and started selling knives in 1900. The made rifle sights at one time as well. Your rifle was most likely imported and sold by Marbles sometime in the 1970's and someone "fancied it up" with some scroll work (which could be improved with an engraving chisel). I can't remember when the name changed to Marbles Gladstone.
f you do put it up for sale, disclose that information and price it accordingly. At the least, it will need a part replaced, possibly the whole lock. I
f you aren't knowledgeable with muzzleloader locks, it may be better to sell it as is rather than take it apart.
BTW, Marbles started out in 1890's selling pocket axe, and started selling knives in 1900. The made rifle sights at one time as well. Your rifle was most likely imported and sold by Marbles sometime in the 1970's and someone "fancied it up" with some scroll work (which could be improved with an engraving chisel). I can't remember when the name changed to Marbles Gladstone.
Italian gun, like an early Pedersoli. They are usually well made and reliable
8 BORE
50 Cal.
Replace the whole LOCK. I thought it is a RECEIVER OR ACTION
