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mudd turtle

40 Cal.
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I went to Walmart yesterday and bought pillow ticking and 100% cotton . I plan to use the pillow ticking for patches-got enough to last me a good while. lady that was behind the counter knew her stuff. She told me that I could make char cloth from the pillow ticking as well as what I bought the white cotton for. One problem -I have a 45 cal flinter and need to know how wide to cut patch material. Then can one of you give me the directions on how you make your char cloth. Eery time I try to make a good batch I either over cook it or something It comes out very fragile. The can I use is an old peanut can . I drilled holes the can top and bottom and plug the holes when the smoke stops coming out of the can. How big are the holes in the can supposed to be. I may have the holrs to big thus letting to much oxygen and over cook the char. Thanks for your help. mudd turtle :shake:
 
As for your patch size question, take a roundball and lay a goodly amount of material over the muzzle, now start the ball like you were loading the gun...

With the ball just below the surface of the muzzle, lift the material up and draw completely around the back side of it with a marker (flush with the muzzle)

Now, use the material to pull the ball out of the muzzle and then unfold it, you will see the size (width) of the circle drawn on the cloth, this will tell you how wide to make them...
 
On your char cloth question. I use a small (less than a pint) paint can with a tight lid. Lid has one hole in it about 1/8th inch in dia. Charring needs no oxygen, you're just driving off the volatiles. When the white smoke stops coming out, plug the little hole and let the can cool for an hour.
 
LeatherMoose said:
On your char cloth question. I use a small (less than a pint) paint can with a tight lid. Lid has one hole in it about 1/8th inch in dia. Charring needs no oxygen, you're just driving off the volatiles. When the white smoke stops coming out, plug the little hole and let the can cool for an hour.
Char Cloth? Please explain to the n00b. :confused:
 
YOur mistake in making char cloth is putting more than one hole in the can! The purpose of the hole is simply to let moisture( steam) out! You don't want air going in. If air gets in, the cloth burns up, and you get white ash inside! Multiple hoes makes it almost sure that you were getting oxygen into the can through some of the other holes, and that is why you failed.

Start with a new can and put just one small hole in the middle of the top. Always pack the can tighly with as much cloth as you can get into it and still close the can. A screwtop can works the best, for obvious reasons. The cloth packed tight displaces the most of air.

Charring cloth or wood( Yes, the charcoal brickets you use in the BBQ involves heating the material( cotton here) above its flashpoint, of the temperature at which will ignite, in an atmosphere deprived of oxygen. Since the material cannot burn without oxygen, it alters its state to lose its non carbon elements. What is left is opaque, that is, a black cloth that you can see daylight through slightly when you hold it up to the light. Using one hole, you can control steam going out, while stopping air going in. If the can gets too hot, it will shove the steam out so fast that oxygen will get in and you will get a blue flame coming out of the hole. Remove the can from the source of heat, cover the hole, and let it cool, before returning it to the heat to steam off the moisture in the cloth. When there is no more " white smoke" (Steam)visibly coming out of the hole, the cooking is done, and you can now cool down the can with a cover on the hole. When the can is cool enough to touch with bare hand, you can open it up.

There may be some cloth inside that is not fully charred. It will be a mixture of colors, from black to brown to whatever the color of the cloth was that you started with. You can either leave all the charred cloth and uncharred cloth in the can, close it up, and return it to the heat to finish it, or simply move the cloth that is fully charred to another container, and save the uncharred clothe for the next time you are going to char cloth. ( Wood takes much longer to char, and a higher heat, but the process is the same.)The cloth that is charred is black, and consists mainly of carbon fibers which do not hold water well. It will catch and hold a spark from your flint or magnesium fire starter, and become an increasing in diameter glowing ember if you blow on it. YOu will want to transfer this ember to some dry tinder to start a fire. Put the char cloth in your tinder, and hold it above your eyebrows. Blow upward on the bottom of the tinder so that when it flames up, it will not burn your hair or your eyebrows. You also don't want to take a lungful of smoke by blowing down at it. There are other ways to ignite fire with such glowing embers, but you can learn those after you master the basic technique. If you want to know more, you can PM me.
 
Char Cloth? Please explain to the n00b. :confused: [/quote]
Charcloth is what you use to catch the spark from flint and steel to build a fire.
 
The KISS method works well for me, precut cloth into patches to fit stacked into a small can with a single hole in the top.

That isn't moisture coming out from dry cloth, it is gas. Light it off when it starts smoking, it will burn like, well, a little gas burner, when it stops burning, take can off the heat, the char is done.
 
Old Ironsights said:
Ridge said:
Charcloth is what you use to catch the spark from flint and steel to build a fire.
Ah... And here I thought it had somthing to do with muzzleloading. :winking:

I guess you could call it a related subject. It's surprisingly easy to start a fire with flint, steel, char cloth and good tender. And, it doesn't matter if your flint and steel get wet... :rotf:

I was surprised the first time I saw a fire started from a flint and steel spark onto char cloth. The fellow struck a few sparks and an ember took on the charcloth. He then casually put his flint and steel away, put the charcloth in a nest of tow and started blowing from underneath. I was sure the ember would go out before he ever got his flint and steel put away, but it was no problem. You do have to be careful when you blow on the ember in the nest of tow from the bottom because the whole thing will suddenly burst into flame.

I even started a fire in my wood stove at home wth flint and steel just for practice. You can get the same results by putting a piece of charcloth in the pan of your flintlock instead of powder (there....now we're back on topic). Pull the trigger and it will shower your charcloth with sparks almost always leaving an ember.

You can also use an ember in a piece of charcloth to light your clay pipe!

--------------------------------------------
Twisted_1in66 :thumbsup:
 
Thank you for the excelent discription of what char cloth is and how to make char cloth. Mudd turtle
 
twisted_1in66 said:
I even started a fire in my wood stove at home wth flint and steel just for practice. You can get the same results by putting a piece of charcloth in the pan of your flintlock instead of powder (there....now we're back on topic). Pull the trigger and it will shower your charcloth with sparks almost always leaving an ember.

:shocked2:

Very cool. Somthing to add to my camping kit. :hmm: (Though I've always wanted to build a Roman bronze (compression) Tinder Box...)

And here I was just thinking y'all were just talking about a good way to make a nice light powderd charcoal. :nono:
 
:v I didn't catch what type of cloth you are using to make your char cloth but old t-shirts of 100% cotton makes the best char cloth .
 
Char;
Roll up the material you want charred, roll it in heavy weight aluminum foil (3-4 layers) and twist ends to keep it tight. Fire up the Bar-B-que, toss the package on the back side the fire, cook some burgers for lunch (keeping the top down) turn off Barbie and close to cool. After lunch open the package and enjoy your new char cloth.

.45 patch;
for roll - Wash, rip into 1 3/4" strips, lube, and roll. this is for "cutting at the muzzle.
For square - rip 1 1/8" dethread ripped edges, cut 1" long.
For round - I don't bother. :winking:
 

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