Just lubed up a few boxes of maxis for the first time. I wanted to keep it simple so I started with canola oil and bees wax. I had white wax on hand so I used that. Next time I'll get yellow wax locally. A mix of 1:4 wax/oil was not thick enough and melted on my fingers like Bore Butter. I wanted something a bit more solid so it doesn't melt easily. I added more wax to get a 1:2 mix and this was too stiff. The lube would sometimes come out in clumps from the groove and didn't stick as well to the grooves. I've tweaked my mix to the consistency I want but I'm still getting some clump outs. I was wondering if there is something else I can add to make it adhere a bit better?
Help On Refining Lube for Maxis
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In order to know how much to buy, how much lanolin would you add to say 6 oz of lube? Or use any other amount if it's easier.
64Springer
75 Cal.
If by white wax, you mean paraffin wax, paraffin is too brittle in my opinion. Paraffin break like glass. I would keep adding bee's wax to the mix until you find the blend you like.
For oil, try coconut oil. It remains stiff at room temperature. And it has the added benefit of not turning rancid. Most oils and fats will turn rancid in time.
Try this. BY WEIGHT: 1 part coconut oil. 3 parts bee's wax. For hotter climates bump it to 4 parts bee's wax. This stuff sticks to the bullets well and is not greasy or gummy.
For oil, try coconut oil. It remains stiff at room temperature. And it has the added benefit of not turning rancid. Most oils and fats will turn rancid in time.
Try this. BY WEIGHT: 1 part coconut oil. 3 parts bee's wax. For hotter climates bump it to 4 parts bee's wax. This stuff sticks to the bullets well and is not greasy or gummy.
no, it's not paraffin but 100% white bees wax. It's been refined as it came in pellet form which is nice when melting. Wifey has coconut oil so next go around I'll try that along with some lanolin.
1-part each pure beeswax & olive oil works well for me! Standard lube of a lot of No-So Skirmish shooters I know, also the paper cartridge boys.
Add more oil if used in ccccolder weather. Opposite if really hhhhot where you are.
Add more oil if used in ccccolder weather. Opposite if really hhhhot where you are.
64Springer
75 Cal.
All I've ever used is yellow bee's wax pellets. Is there a difference between white and yellow pellets? Thanks.
64Springer
75 Cal.
Are the parts by weight or volume? Thanks.
A reply I received a while back seemed to imply that there was a difference but I don't remember the details.
user 29010
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I've had good luck with Gatofeo No. 1 lubricant. I also only lube the first groove because the larger groove sometimes will lose half of it's lube and it throws the balance of the bullet off and ruins the accuracy.
The recipe is:
1 part mutton tallow. I buy mine from Dixie Gun Works, which offers it again after months of unavailability. This is the toughest ingredient to find, but worth the search.
There’s something almost magical about mutton tallow. It doesn’t go rancid and it really keeps black powder fouling to a minimum.
1 part canning paraffin -- the same paraffin used to seal preserves in jars, sold at the grocery store in 1 lb. packages containing four slabs. Gulf is a common brand. Hardware stores with canning sections have it too.
1/2 part real beeswax -- Beware of today's toilet seals, which are not real beeswax but petroleum-based. Get real beeswax, not the synthetic stuff. Though hobby shops may carry small cakes of beeswax, it’s expensive. Your best bet to find it will be at “Mountain Man” Rendezvous, Renaissance Fairs and from local beekeepers.
Check the net for reasonably priced beeswax. I’ve also seen it offered occasionally, at a good price, on Ebay. Can’t find a local beekeeper? Call your county extension office in the government pages; they’ll have a handle on who rides herd on bees in your area.
Toilet seals haven’t been made from real beeswax for at least 10 years, near as I can tell, and perhaps much longer. Check the label, if it doesn’t say “beeswax” it’s almost certainly synthetic and should be avoided.
All parts are by weight, not volume!
I measure out 200/200/100 grams on a kitchen scale, toss the ingredients into a wide mouth Mason jar, and set the jar in 3 or four inches of boiling water for a double-boiler effect to melt it. When thoroughly melted, mix well with a clean stick or disposable chopstick, then allow to cool at room temperature.
Do not try to hasten cooling by placing the jar in the refrigerator, or the ingredients may separate.
The recipe is:
1 part mutton tallow. I buy mine from Dixie Gun Works, which offers it again after months of unavailability. This is the toughest ingredient to find, but worth the search.
There’s something almost magical about mutton tallow. It doesn’t go rancid and it really keeps black powder fouling to a minimum.
1 part canning paraffin -- the same paraffin used to seal preserves in jars, sold at the grocery store in 1 lb. packages containing four slabs. Gulf is a common brand. Hardware stores with canning sections have it too.
1/2 part real beeswax -- Beware of today's toilet seals, which are not real beeswax but petroleum-based. Get real beeswax, not the synthetic stuff. Though hobby shops may carry small cakes of beeswax, it’s expensive. Your best bet to find it will be at “Mountain Man” Rendezvous, Renaissance Fairs and from local beekeepers.
Check the net for reasonably priced beeswax. I’ve also seen it offered occasionally, at a good price, on Ebay. Can’t find a local beekeeper? Call your county extension office in the government pages; they’ll have a handle on who rides herd on bees in your area.
Toilet seals haven’t been made from real beeswax for at least 10 years, near as I can tell, and perhaps much longer. Check the label, if it doesn’t say “beeswax” it’s almost certainly synthetic and should be avoided.
All parts are by weight, not volume!
I measure out 200/200/100 grams on a kitchen scale, toss the ingredients into a wide mouth Mason jar, and set the jar in 3 or four inches of boiling water for a double-boiler effect to melt it. When thoroughly melted, mix well with a clean stick or disposable chopstick, then allow to cool at room temperature.
Do not try to hasten cooling by placing the jar in the refrigerator, or the ingredients may separate.
Look up Stumpy's Moose Snot, which you can easily make and adjust the proportions to make it clingier. It is an excellent BP lube.
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Stop trying and get it right the 1st time , 1 LB Bullshop NASA lube/add 2bottles chainsaw mix (2.6oz) ea of Stihl Ultra (HP) no substitutions ! and for softer refill 1 /2.6 container with Planters Peanut oil if needed (I did not)/ any questions ask like double boiling /Ed
This is Idaholewis's concoction if I'm not mistaken.
The synthetic Stihl 2 stroke oil freaks most people out, but he had zero issues with it and in fact swore by it for not letting the bore lead up.
Johnny Tremain
Silversmith in training
From the Cast Bootlits forum:
1lb bees wax
1ib lard
4oz cornola oil
Been using it for years
1lb bees wax
1ib lard
4oz cornola oil
Been using it for years
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Absolutely it is his creation that I swear by even used for patch lube TOO!
appalichian hunter
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you sure its bees wax
appalichian hunter
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Bees wax, crisco and olive oil adjust the thickness bye adding more bees wax.
appalichian hunter
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The reason I ask ( white bees wax) is there is a soy was product that comes in pellet form. It is white. Never used that as a bullet lube but it is a natural product might work.
I'm a habitual label reader and I made sure it was 100% bees wax before using.
new2bp
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As said earlier, beeswax hardens, lanolin makes sticky.
My 50/50 crisco/beeswax mix does an OK job of staying in place for the most part (started it in hot Florida summer), but I want to go up on Crisco and add lanolin for sticky.
One thing you need to watch for is that the wax and crisco can separate when cooling, I stirred mine pretty constantly with a old fork...
My 50/50 crisco/beeswax mix does an OK job of staying in place for the most part (started it in hot Florida summer), but I want to go up on Crisco and add lanolin for sticky.
One thing you need to watch for is that the wax and crisco can separate when cooling, I stirred mine pretty constantly with a old fork...
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