Help on restoration

[.36Rooster]

I decided to move this topic here. The guys on percussion locks have helped me a lot, but maybe I can get some input from other experts here. I am semi familiar with fixing firearms and woodworking, but by no means an expert.

The rifle lock is aligned to the left with hammer falling LEFT of nipple, and had a loose hammer with lots of play, which I peened and snugged up tight, and it did help with ignition, but the rifle still doesn't snap caps every time the hammer drops.

I realized today, by matching rub marks, that the mainspring contacts the barrel and that is what puts it out of alignment. Filing the lock bolsters and redoing the inletting, will not help, since the mainspring is what is contacting the barrel. The lock may not even contact the inletting, and there is a pivoting of entire lock from this when the screws are lose. The pivoting is definitely NOT on the bolsters. It is at the contact point of the mainspring and barrel.

here are the marks:

The marks show where they are contacting.

What can I do with this.
1) File and take down the width of the mainspring?
2) File the barrel so the mainspring fits and the hammer aligns with nipple?
3) order a new mainspring? And how do I find one that fits?

I dont want to try filing the mainspring obviously, unless there is no choice...right? I mean, it will weaken it.

It is a VERY thick barrel...however

 

[.36Rooster]

My one hope is to get some squirrels with this rifle before season closes at end of the month. I am about to have nine days off to fix it and squirrel hunt. Starting Wednesday.

 

[dave_person]

Hi,
Is that a replacement spring? It looks to extend much too close to the forward lock bolt. It looks like an L&R spring. The first thing to try is grind a bevel on the upper leaf of the spring where it contacts the barrel. See if that eliminates the contact. Next is to grind the spring thinner. If it was my lock, I would make a new and proper spring but that requires hardening and tempering. Below is what a proper spring for your style lock would look like.

The upper leaf has a lug at the end which fits under the bolster and lowers the placement of the upper leaf on the lock plate. The upper leaf has a bevel on its upper outer side to help clear a big barrel. There is plenty of room in front of the spring for the forward lock bolt and the lower leaf has a nice smooth taper giving the spring a nice whippy feel when cocked.
dave

 

[.36Rooster]

The rifle was bought as is. Everything was how I bought it. Just trying to get hammer to strike on nipple squarely.

Is it safe to file the spring. I would think I would want it as strong as possible, and filing would obviously weaken it.

It appears this was a kit rifle which was sold and I am forced to do the fitting, I do know the parts are related, but I do suspicions about the stock. Regardless, is it is safe to file the spring. It is fresh with no work. It seems safer to file a bit into the thick barrel though (.36 caliber bore with roughly 1inch. Barrel). I have never in my life seen a barrel filed though.

 

[Eric Krewson]

It is not unusual to notch a barrel to accommodate the main spring, I did it on the first rifle I built, All I took off the barrel was about 1/16" at the bottom corner of the side flat, it was a C weight barrel with plenty of extra metal. Later I slightly notched the barrel to let the front lock bolt pass through my poorly drilled and too late to back up errant hole that crept into the barrel channel ever so slightly. Rookie mistakes, I made a lot of them on that first rifle and didn't repeat them on any of the following ones.

On my next I reduced the spring which was a bad Idea.

I was sure the full sized spring on my fowler (second build) would contact the barrel. I later ordered a full sized spring to replace the one I did extensive filing on to speed up the lock. turned out my fears were for naught, the new mainspring didn't hit the barrel.

 

[dave_person]

Hi,
Depends on how strong the mainspring is right now. Sometimes they are too strong and benefit from lightening a bit. For cap locks you need the spring to be strong enough to securely hold the hammer against the nipple preventing blow back. You could also file a bit from the barrel. However, grinding (not filing) a bevel on the upper leaf won't weaken the spring very much.

dave

 

[Phil Coffins]

You would only have to file a small part of the spring to clear the barrel. Mostly the corner of the stationary point of the spring and you should also remove the burrs where the lock plate goes around the drum.

 

[nhmoose]

That looks like the wrong spring to me. How you getting the forward screw past it?

 

[Sam squanch]

I’d order a l and r oversized percussion lock and start over......

 

[Col. Batguano]

Why would you grind instead of filing the bevel Dave? Not questioning your advice, just curious. Won't grinding generate more heat and endanger the temper?

 

[dave_person]

Why would you grind instead of filing the bevel Dave? Not questioning your advice, just curious. Won't grinding generate more heat and endanger the temper?

Because you will ruin your file. You can grind the bevel and not risk the temper by dipping the spring in water when it gets hot. You would have to be a total klutz to ruin the temper.

dave

 

[Artificer]

Because you will ruin your file. You can grind the bevel and not risk the temper by dipping the spring in water when it gets hot. You would have to be a total klutz to ruin the temper.

dave

One's bare hands make a pretty good excessive temperature indicator. Grin.

Gus