Help with a Confederate style D-Guard Bowie knife

[Andrew smith]

I am wanting to make a confederate style D-guard bowie knife. I want it to be as period correct as possible so I was wondering if you guys knew of any places or had any pictures that I could go and see some of those style knives that I could get my design from. I know what they look like but, like I said, I want to try to be period correct.

Thanks in advance for the help.

 

[crockett]

There is one at the Museum of the Confederacy in Richmond, VA. Really cool knives and one that is on my to do list. Where are you going to get the steel. I had a truck spring but was told the bend in it would be hard to normalize- it could come back when I tempered the blade.

 

[LRB]

I don't know if you could make one wrong, as long as basics were followed. Most, if not all, are smith made creations following customer preferences, or their own ideas. Plain wood, iron guard in a D shape. Simple Bowie shaped blade. A simple version might have a through tang, riveted over the D to secure it all together. To be PC, don't worry too much as to fit and finish. As for steel, check with Admiral Steel, or any of the knifemakers suppliers. !075/80/84 are all cheap, and relatively easy to heat treat. I would suggest 3/16" x 1 1/2" for the blade. No need to go heavier for that. You can use simple hot, or cold rolled for the guard. Plain walnut or maple for the grip.

 

[grettadarlean]

Here is one I made a wile back.

 

[LRB]

Looks good to me. All that I've seen are pretty plain Jane. Just a basic fighting tool. My problem with them, is that they don't allow a good edge up positon in a combat stance, but are good for hacking blows.

 

[Andrew smith]

Thanks guys for the info. I figured that they would not be that complex because they would want to make as many as possible as fast as possible.

What is the best way to attach the guard at the end of the knife? Should I thread the end of the tang and screw on a pommel or should I peen the tang over the end? If I peen it over, which is probably easier, what is the best way to do that?

Thanks again,

-Andrew

 

[LRB]

Be sure your tang is soft enough to peen. Slot the guard end to fit close over the tang. Using a small file chamfer the top edges of the slot. Doesn't take a lot, but enough to give room for the tang to flare when you peen. Lock the blade tightly in your vise with a leather wrap for protection, and the guard about a half inch above the jaws. The tang should protrude maybe 1/8" to 3/16" depending on the size of it all. Peen it down, dress it off a bit with a file.

 

[Andrew smith]

Would the steel be soft enough to peen or should I braze or solder something else onto the tang for that?

 

[LRB]

Adding a piece of soft steel would work fine, but if the tang never gets heated and quenched, it should be soft enough. With the steel I use, 01, I have to add low carb steel if doing a through tang. 01 steel has a tendancy to air harden if ever brought to a red heat. You should not have that problem with the steels I suggested.

 

[Andrew smith]

Thanks again Wick. I am going to draw out my design here pretty soon and get started on it. I learned a long time ago that it is easier to erase and re-draw a line than add to add on that extra piece of steel that I should not have cut off a few minutes ago :wink:

I will post some pics when I finish.

 

[bdhutier]

Can't wait to see it, man. You certainly have a talent for smithing!

 

[BillinOregon]

Great advice Wick. I've always been attracted the D-guard; must be the Georgian in me.
Globler: Very nice job!