Help with an 1851 Navy, alignment?

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I’d sure think it was “enough“ if it was my ribs the balls was bouncing off of…
Most definitely! However it isn't always clear how that kind of damage translates to immediate stopping power. In the Civil War, for example, many soldiers passed away over time, sometimes hours or days after these wounds. However, this is not necessarily effective in a self-defense or combat tactical situation, in which persons who though they will ultimately pass away, are still able to move and fight for seconds or minutes after the impact.
 
Most definitely! However it isn't always clear how that kind of damage translates to immediate stopping power. In the Civil War, for example, many soldiers passed away over time, sometimes hours or days after these wounds. However, this is not necessarily effective in a self-defense or combat tactical situation, in which persons who though they will ultimately pass away, are still able to move and fight for seconds or minutes after the impact.
I’ve seen people soak up hits from 7.62, 5.56 and shrapnel and remain in the game. Often enough to impress me and reinforce my belief that there are no guarantees.
 
I can't enter URL. Just enter forgottenweapons.com .. then look for the huge 45-70 revolver ... [see post #44]

fun read. Dale
 
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Check this out. Dale [see next post ... I am computer illiterate, but I got there after several rabbit trails. :rolleyes:FORGET IT, DOESN'T WORK,,Dale
 

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I’ve thought of what you suggest— that it may just be the outer dimensions that are off kilter. And I keep trying to look down the barrel with the flashlight but not having too much luck yet, nothing is reflecting back up? And ugh, it looks really dirty in there. Like I said I’ll have to wait until next week (all my tools are in Florida where I’ll be heading) and then I‘ll find out exactly what’s going when I take it apart.

I do have new steel frame revolvers— new Pietta steel Navy in .44 and a full-size Remington 1858. However, like I said they just don’t feel anywhere near as good as this one. They are more rattle-y, more jiggly, the handles are shaped less ergonomically… this brass one just feels super tight, the cylinder locks up tight, the hammer spring must be SUPER strong because the hammer pull is hard— which I’m hoping will mean fewer cap jams than my steel ones (even with Slix shot cones, cap jams on my steel ones are not uncommon). Plus, this one is lighter (because the cylinder is the original style, with the larger forcing cone, so it looks more like the original Navy in .36). I forgot to mention, this brass one also has a tall front site, which I’m guessing will mean it’s more point-of-aim. I’ve seen photo of these guns from that era and this is the only one I’ve seen that has a tall front site (as opposed to the tiny nub on modern Pietta clones). Also, the Remington 1858 is HUGE, and I’m a small guy. Concealing the Remington for me would be like trying to conceal a cannon! So as you say, maybe a 5 1/2” Remington would be better, though operating them is nowhere near as smooth as the Colts. Anyway, I hope this gun works out. I may make a YouTube video about it. If it doesn’t, I’ll probably resell it.
Get an auto goose neck light with a little LED on the end so it will start in the muzzle then view around it and line up the bore with each chamber mouth as they index up.
That is how I check them but a .36 is much tougher to see down than a .44. Plug gauges work well if you have access to them by using the tightest one that will slide down bore then tipping the muzzle up, letting the gauge slide into each chamber and measuring how far each gauge drops in with a cleaning rod.
Quite often if a gun is severely out of alignment it will spit lead and the forcing cone is angled to make it stop but accuracy will usually suffer. Balls will generally be more accurate than conical bullets in this case.
I've never fit a bolt off to the side to accommodate an alignment issue but have given it some though as to how it could be done. I think it would be a real big challenge but I have the machinery to do it. Trouble is if they are all out the same amount and if the hand and ratchet can be adjusted to accommodate the change up.
 
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I've never fit a bolt off to the side to accommodate an alignment issue but have given it some though as to how it could be done. I think it would be a real big challenge but I have the machinery to do it. Trouble is if they are all out the same amount and if the hand and ratchet can be adjusted to accommodate the change up.

It's not a big challenge at all. It's the same as fitting any new bolt except for cheating it to either side for the correction.
Usually if it's a problem, it's on older revolvers. Done many of them.

Mike
 
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