I just picked up my new gpr and spent the last 2 hrs trying to get the wedge pins in. Can someone please help. I already sanded some of the barrel channel but still will not fit. It fits in the rear tang fine but you need to squeeze the stock and barrel together. I can get the rear pin in but not the front.Very disappointed with this rifle so far.(this is not a kit)
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HELP with new gpr
- Thread starter trkyman1
- Start date
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On my GPR the wedge pins are two different lengths. The longer one goes in the rear and the shorter wedge pin goes in the front (closer to the muzzle) from right to left as your looking at the gun with the muzzle pointed straight away. Also if the tang is too tight the wedge pins on my GPR will not go in so I have to loosen the screws that hold it in a bit.
Rancher's on the right track. If the wedges are switched one will not go in right. However, the difference is very slight, so it's hard to tell them apart.
Also, it helps a bit to file a little off the opening in the escutcheons. Use care here, because if you overdo it, the wedge will be loose.
Also, it helps a bit to file a little off the opening in the escutcheons. Use care here, because if you overdo it, the wedge will be loose.
My GPR was the same way. The wedge pins were difficult to install. If you grind a small bevel on all four sides of the pins they will go in. Mine were square and very rough. They would be hard to go in even if everything lined up perfectly. As someone earlier said all GPRs are kits! But once sorted out they are wonderful rifles.
Oh, BTW, you will probably also need to drill out the flash hole liner. The GPRs I have examined have a hole smaller than 1/16 inch. Mine flashed several times without going boom. Get a number #50 drill and drill it out. It will than go boom every single time.
longcruise
70 Cal.
This is a problem with just about every fresh from the factory GPR I have ever worked with, including the kits.
There should be no need to loosen tang screws or to squeeze the barrel and stock excessively to get them in. Neither should you need to file the keys or open the escuteons.
Select the slightly longer key and push it into place without overly squeezing the barrel and stock together. Now, look at the offside, using a flashlight if needed, and see if the key is coming in low or high to the offside opening.
If it's high (almost for sure the case) take the key out, lay it on a hard surface and give it a few taps across the center of the key with a ball peen hammer. Just enough to put a bit of a bend in it. Now try putting it in again with the belly side of the key up. If it still comes in a bit high on the off side, put a bit more bend in it. If it now comes in low, the bend is too great. Keep fiddling with it till you get it right. There should only be enough tension on the key to prevent if from being removed without a push from the off side.
Once the rear key is adjusted, do the same with the front key with the rear key in place. Then go back and re-check the rear key to be sure it's still right and readjust a bit if needed.
You can also adjust by hammering the barrel lug to smaller or bending it to larger, but I don't recommend that. I have seen three different ways of attaching the under barrel lugs on the GPR and some just don't lend themselves to adjusting. One that I'm just starting on is like that. The underlugs are the full width of the bottom flat of the barrel. :shocked2:
It seems like when you pay up as you did and as much as you did for this rifle that there should not be any adjusting needed, but remember, the GPR, regardless of what you paid for it, is at the bottom end of the price range for the finished guns.
Once you get it adjusted and start to get a feel for how it all works together, you will like it more and more. Won't be long and you will be giving us a glowing range report.
There should be no need to loosen tang screws or to squeeze the barrel and stock excessively to get them in. Neither should you need to file the keys or open the escuteons.
Select the slightly longer key and push it into place without overly squeezing the barrel and stock together. Now, look at the offside, using a flashlight if needed, and see if the key is coming in low or high to the offside opening.
If it's high (almost for sure the case) take the key out, lay it on a hard surface and give it a few taps across the center of the key with a ball peen hammer. Just enough to put a bit of a bend in it. Now try putting it in again with the belly side of the key up. If it still comes in a bit high on the off side, put a bit more bend in it. If it now comes in low, the bend is too great. Keep fiddling with it till you get it right. There should only be enough tension on the key to prevent if from being removed without a push from the off side.
Once the rear key is adjusted, do the same with the front key with the rear key in place. Then go back and re-check the rear key to be sure it's still right and readjust a bit if needed.
You can also adjust by hammering the barrel lug to smaller or bending it to larger, but I don't recommend that. I have seen three different ways of attaching the under barrel lugs on the GPR and some just don't lend themselves to adjusting. One that I'm just starting on is like that. The underlugs are the full width of the bottom flat of the barrel. :shocked2:
It seems like when you pay up as you did and as much as you did for this rifle that there should not be any adjusting needed, but remember, the GPR, regardless of what you paid for it, is at the bottom end of the price range for the finished guns.
Once you get it adjusted and start to get a feel for how it all works together, you will like it more and more. Won't be long and you will be giving us a glowing range report.
You've got great advice!
I bought a used GPR once and the wedges were loose. The gun was built in '94.
If you've filed the wedges to loose you'll need to slot 'em and put a pin in 'em or they'll fall out.
I pin every wedge just for safety don't care how tight it is.
I bought a used GPR once and the wedges were loose. The gun was built in '94.
If you've filed the wedges to loose you'll need to slot 'em and put a pin in 'em or they'll fall out.
I pin every wedge just for safety don't care how tight it is.
I have owned 4 of them, had to bend the pins on all of them to get them in. You want them snug going in & then snap in place upon proper position in the rifle.
You don't need to pin them,IMHO, you file a rounded locking groove in the wedgepin. You take the barrel out & install the pin & take a felt pin & mark where the underlug would be, then take the pin out & file a small groove in the pin. Note it has to be filed on the proper side to lock against the underlug. Thus when you put the pin in the groove it locks to the underlug. Also, it has to be a Rounded groove?, as if you file a square edge groove you will lock the pin in & have a H of a time getting it out :shocked2: been there done that....... :redface:
As for drilling out the vent liner, I use a #2 centerdrill. This drills it out to 5/64" and cone the inside of the vent liner & barely cone the outside as well. Wrap a lil piece of leather around the vent liner & clamp it just snug in a vice & drill it out.
When installing in the rifle, a tad of Antisieze & just snug it in, NOT tight......
This will make a 100% improvement in the ignition of a GPR. :thumbsup:
You don't need to pin them,IMHO, you file a rounded locking groove in the wedgepin. You take the barrel out & install the pin & take a felt pin & mark where the underlug would be, then take the pin out & file a small groove in the pin. Note it has to be filed on the proper side to lock against the underlug. Thus when you put the pin in the groove it locks to the underlug. Also, it has to be a Rounded groove?, as if you file a square edge groove you will lock the pin in & have a H of a time getting it out :shocked2: been there done that....... :redface:
As for drilling out the vent liner, I use a #2 centerdrill. This drills it out to 5/64" and cone the inside of the vent liner & barely cone the outside as well. Wrap a lil piece of leather around the vent liner & clamp it just snug in a vice & drill it out.
When installing in the rifle, a tad of Antisieze & just snug it in, NOT tight......
This will make a 100% improvement in the ignition of a GPR. :thumbsup:
Thank's for all the help. I got the barrel to fit better but I had to file about .050 out of the barrel channel just in front of the rear tang.The wood seemed to be a little high in that area and would not let the barrel lay in the stock unless you squeezed it together.I got the pins in but they are still very tight.Im sure the ball peen hammer trick will work cuz the pins are coming through only a hair high. I will drill the flash hole out tonight. Is there a good aftermarket liner I can buy for a speedy ignition or should I just drill it out? Thank's for all the help. This is a great site.
fyrfyter43
45 Cal.
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trkyman1 said:
I use an RMC liner in my GPR, and have had NO ignition troubles since I started using it. You can order them, or you can get one from Dixon's. Since you're in NE PA Dixon's probably isn't that far of a drive. If you've never been there, it's well worth the trip.
I would just drill the one ya have, only a $3. vent liner if it screws up or you don't like it. But you will like it. Not much cone on the outside now, as you have to be able to get it back out if necessary. Put a lil antiseize on the threads or some choke tube lubricant.
:thumbsup:
:thumbsup:
All is well with the rifle now. I put the rmc liner in and kept the original for a spare. I tapped one wedge pin with a hammer to put the slight bend in and it worked great. I have .015 -. 018 - .020 Patches to try with the .530 roundball. Hoping to shoot tomarrow if the wind dies down. I will post my range report afterwards. Thanks again everyone for your help.
