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Here's some mischief

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I am already figuring on having the touchhole about 20 degrees to the right to keep the fuse out of the line of aim. Kinda thought that rotating the barrel to point higher rather than lower might reduce aiming error. I'll probably try it that way. Still not sure how to affix the barrel socket to the tiller.
 
I am already figuring on having the touchhole about 20 degrees to the right to keep the fuse out of the line of aim. Kinda thought that rotating the barrel to point higher rather than lower might reduce aiming error. I'll probably try it that way. Still not sure how to affix the barrel socket to the tiller.
Dear Bill there is a article written for the MLAGB UK journal 'Black Powder' winter of 2000 by Ulrich Bretsher He gives a web sight to contact him his five pages of A4 size is very well illustrated & he explores the simple cylinder bore V the smaller anti chamber bore type cite ting three original pieces with comparative modern Swiss powder & a mix much like the' serpentine' powders with very scientific records Ballistic readings ect .I did send Tobjohn the whole pages though they looked fuzzy he is a computer wizz so was able to get an improuved picture Ide say he Brer Ulrich would be Thee authority on the subject Ile send you his Web?? contact He appends to his article no idea if still good worth a try failing which should Mr Bretsher now unable to respond I can send you the pages via our local school if I have youre E Pm it be fine if it suits you..
.In 1995 I wrote an article for Sherlocks' Muzzleloader Magazine' entitled " Observations on the More Archaic locks'' in the context of reenactment I could send you that .As well I Could add my article in 'Black powder' "With Dog & Doglock' 'about my hunting locally with both .I think its my most amuseing article . Ive never hunted or made a 'Hande Gonne' but often did with matchlocks .
Regards Rudyard
 
Bill: Somewhere in this Forum I remember reading that someone used a handle from a wheel burrow to make a tiller. A good idea if you want the square-ish shape.
 
Just to follow up, our friend Rudyard did indeed convey Ulrich Bretscher's article as well as his own charming "With Dog and Doglock" and several other estimable articles he wrote and I am now a happier and wiser man for having read them. :cool:
Praise indeed its always gratifieing to get feed back on articles or work in general .
Regards Rudyard
Who is incidently trying to contact Donlyn Meyers of' Smoke & Fire News' for who I used to write of events & who might aid me in publishing my very numerous articles' since they seem popular & might warrant publication . R
 
Bill, I liked the look of your blued handgonne so much that I did mine today. I used some Van's Instant Gun Blue that I bought at a gun show at least 20 years ago. I followed the directions, put on several coats, and it turned out as they claimed and I hoped. Thanks for the idea.
 
Well, I am satisfied with this simple tiller, lightly antiqued and stained, and after roughing up the gonne socket with a Dremel abrasive and smearing with JB Weld I fitted the gonne until a nice bead of epoxy was extruded at the joint. I cleaned it up and the whole shebang is curing for live fire on the morrow.
I did fit and light one three-inch length of fuse in the empty chamber, and the question occurred to me whether tis better to load the powder, tow, ball and tow and then jam the fuse into the chamber, or first insert the fuse, then load. Any wisdom from the august college of black arts practitioners here?
 
One further question: I will fire with round ball at the shooting range, but for back yard noisemaking on the Fourth, will some powder and a tightly packed wad of tow suffice for a nice boom?
Fuse first. If last, it is sometimes hard to insert it if you've packed all the rest too tightly. I can't answer question #2. Nice looking outfit; well done.
 
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Well, I am satisfied with this simple tiller, lightly antiqued and stained, and after roughing up the gonne socket with a Dremel abrasive and smearing with JB Weld I fitted the gonne until a nice bead of epoxy was extruded at the joint. I cleaned it up and the whole shebang is curing for live fire on the morrow.
I did fit and light one three-inch length of fuse in the empty chamber, and the question occurred to me whether tis better to load the powder, tow, ball and tow and then jam the fuse into the chamber, or first insert the fuse, then load. Any wisdom from the august college of black arts practitioners here?
Dear Bill .Nhaa just wing it & if it bursts you over did it, just remember' black stuff first 'and you cant go too far wrong .,Perhaps an incantation to Saint Barbera might help ?.Patron Saint of gunners
Regards Rudyard .
 
Well, what an armful of fun this thing is! I only fired a couple of rounds as the wind was really stiff and I had a heck of a time lighting the fuses, but on the second shot, holding it overhand and aiming instinctively from the waist, I managed to clobber the steel silhouette at about a dozen yards. I was only using 30 grains of Olde Eynsford FFg black powder, but the charge was sufficient to flatten that big .735 round ball. The recovered slug weighed 590 grains; as cast these run about 600 grains.



 
"An armful of fun," you ought to be a copy writer for handgonne manufacturers! That says it all in words, but the lead mushroom does the same visually. Thanks for posting. Unfortunately it's raining here and predicted for next two days, so no fun to be had with my big boomer.
 
Ha, ha, I KNEW you would say that! How about we meet half way, maybe somewhere near Memphis, for a good old (14th century style) shootin' match? Just kidding, but wouldn't it be a hoot to have about five or six guys on a firing line all touching off those gonnes at the same time?! What was the diameter of that flattened ball?
 
I am already figuring on having the touchhole about 20 degrees to the right to keep the fuse out of the line of aim. Kinda thought that rotating the barrel to point higher rather than lower might reduce aiming error. I'll probably try it that way. Still not sure how to affix the barrel socket to the tiller.
I am already figuring on having the touchhole about 20 degrees to the right to keep the fuse out of the line of aim. Kinda thought that rotating the barrel to point higher rather than lower might reduce aiming error. I'll probably try it that way. Still not sure how to affix the barrel socket to the tiller.
 
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