hickory ramrods, where to buy the best?

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Hard to believe, so waiting with eager anticipation for your reference.
I was told that 40 plus years ago, not a new argument. If you are worried about it use a muzzle guide/protector. I know I have articles in some old books on it, but not worth looking for as most folks already have their minds made up.

Think about sandpaper and steel. Which is harder, the soft paper backing holding the abrasive or the steel?
 
Hickory Loading rods ?? Why all the problems ? Go to your local Pawn shop ,find old wood golf clubs. You have well seasoned Hickory thats been flexed for years. Been using mine for about 50 years. Even has a take apart below the Rubber Bog Pull top to house a spare nipple and threaded for standard cleaning jags and brushes..Simple.
 
I try to pick my own when I can. I’ve ordered several times from Log Cabin. When I order I get 5-7 blanks. Of that to my standard 3-4 can be used.
I take my thumb nail , find a grain and then follow that grain the length of the rod. Or at least for the length I need.
Ramrods will break but one with grain running the full length can last a long time.
Yes I have soaked hickory blanks in coal oil and do notice good results.
 
I was told that 40 plus years ago, not a new argument.
OK, Old Timer. 40 plus years ago I was busy jetting about hither and yon across this great country of ours, and others, and didn't know diddly squat about guns and probably didn't care, either. So, one Old Timer can always teach another Old Timer about something he didn't know 40 years ago.
 
I have had good luck with October country but I have only bought 2-3. They are convenient when you want to have a few different jags readily available. I use a metal rod with a muzzle protector from Track for my primary rod, and will have a brush/ball puller/bore scraper on the other. I use them way less than the metal one so I do not get worried about muzzle wear from not having a muzzle guard. All of October's hickory ones have been pretty sturdy for me. I have one that I have been using since I got into the hobby, and broke another through no fault of the rod itself. User error lol.
 
I've heard that for years but then I saw some test results that showed wood rods to be more abrasive. It seems that wood more readily picks up abrasive materials.

Another article I read was in reference to mode...., ah...,errrr... non ml guns that said your rod should be harder than the barrel metal 🙄.

I'll try to find that rod test.
I have always wondered if a little ballistol or rem oil wiped lightly along the hickory during use would mitigate the wear. It seems logical enough to me but I have no idea.
 
I have always wondered if a little ballistol or rem oil wiped lightly along the hickory during use would mitigate the wear. It seems logical enough to me but I have no idea.
I think your idea makes sense. It also helps to seal the wood. I have a system to "rack" my milsurps using rack rods made from ordinary Home Depot wood dowels. I heat dried, sanded and sealed them with boiled linseed oil:

IMG_3361.JPG


But I think not Ballistol as it's water soluble?

The system isn't my idea; it's based on the black plastic rods seen at far right, which I wasn't happy with. Too floppy.
 
In general, you have to pick them out yourself. I am particular, so at the Log Cabin Shop, I have to look over 10 to find one that is straight grain all along the length. Most of them are "OK", but still a little grain run out. And it is the same with the hardware store oak dowels. You have to look long and hard for that straight grain white oak dowel amongst the random red oak blanks. Now I make my own. It is really fun to split your own out of a log, using the traditional wedges, froe, shaving horse, draw knife, etc. One decent 4' hickory log and I have a lifetime of straight grained blanks. But I like to play with that sort of thing...
 
I've heard that for years but then I saw some test results that showed wood rods to be more abrasive. It seems that wood more readily picks up abrasive materials.

Another article I read was in reference to mode...., ah...,errrr... non ml guns that said your rod should be harder than the barrel metal 🙄.

I'll try to find that rod test.
Rod being harder than the barrel metal seems like a recipe for disaster. Maybe that's why all the old lever guns and military guns have destroyed crowns.

I have 1 steel rod, but it has a bore guide. The rest are brass, wood, or delrin.
 
Another alternative would be either a Delrin or fiberglass rod that identifies as “hickory”.🤣:cool:
I used to work for a company that made fiberglass bodies for the auto industry so I have seen first hand what fiberglass can do to steel. If you insist on using it as a ramrod then get a bore protector to use with it. Might also want to use gloves because as the fiberglass wears small pieces come off and will get imbedded in your hands which is not pleasant.
 
Anyone ever use ironwood(aka American hornbeam) or black locust for a ramrod? Both extremely hard and tight grain. Hornbeam known to dull blades and chisels. Both used for axe/hammer handles, golf clubs, etc. as they are strong and not prone to splinter. Have in abundance around here...
 
I will add here that I always sand down a rod after wetting a bit to close the grain.
Regardless of whether you soak the rod in coal oil or not I still burnish my rods with a hard tool or a chicken leg bone works really well. They still do but used to call it boning.
That helps seal it.
 
I think your idea makes sense. It also helps to seal the wood. I have a system to "rack" my milsurps using rack rods made from ordinary Home Depot wood dowels. I heat dried, sanded and sealed them with boiled linseed oil:

View attachment 238577

But I think not Ballistol as it's water soluble?

The system isn't my idea; it's based on the black plastic rods seen at far right, which I wasn't happy with. Too floppy.
That is a very nice collection of Unmens.
 
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