Hodgdon Pistol Pellets.

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Here's what I can't understand. Why buy a traditional ML then look to find non-traditional methods to use it, then post it on a Traditional forum. If pouring in some bp is too much trouble,why not :idunno: just buy a modern gun.
 
Leatherbark said:
They hangfired bad and sometimes misfired in my Pietta Remington.............Gave them away


Same here - I tried them out courtesy of a fellow shooter who is an RFD [your FFL]. In spite of freshing out the ROA after shooting my home-made cartridges, not a single one fired on the 'bang - every one of the twelve I tried was a click..............boom.

Funny thing is I tried the same idea back in the 1970's too.

Didn't work then either.

IMO it's an expensive way to load duds, that is maybe fine for the type of arm for which they were intended. Y'know, the ones that use HUMUNGOUS great shotgun primers as percussion caps.

tac
 
Don't Pyrodex pellets need to be loaded with one specifc end pointing toward the nipple in order for it to ignite reliably?
IIRC that's because one end is coated with black powder to aid ignition and that side must be loaded "head first".
Is it possible that the reported ignition problems are due to them not having been properly inserted into the chamber in the first place?
And I suppose that placing just a pinch of loose powder into the bottom of each chamber first could help insure pellet ignition without needing to resort to measuring out any loose powder, sort of like a mini primer charge.
Perhaps a wire handle can be glued onto a .22 short case to serve as a small & efficient primer scoop for a crushed pellet or loose powder.
 
arcticap said:
Don't Pyrodex pellets need to be loaded with one specifc end pointing toward the nipple in order for it to ignite reliably?
IIRC that's because one end is coated with black powder to aid ignition and that side must be loaded "head first".
Is it possible that the reported ignition problems are due to them not having been properly inserted into the chamber in the first place?
And I suppose that placing just a pinch of loose powder into the bottom of each chamber first could help insure pellet ignition without needing to resort to measuring out any loose powder, sort of like a mini primer charge.
Perhaps a wire handle can be glued onto a .22 short case to serve as a small & efficient primer scoop for a crushed pellet or loose powder.


Sir - life is just waaaay too short. By the time you have measured out the teeny little case and poured it in and settled the charge the right way around I've reloaded all my six chambers and I'm ready to shoot another six shots. Crushing the pellet seems to me to be defeating the object of having a pellet-form charge in the fust place.

There's a place for inventions like this - right up there with the double-ended hammer and the solar-powered flashlight that sends a beam of darkness during daylight hours.

It looks cool, until you try and make use of it.

Let those guys who feel the need for this idea, and who shoot the things in which they prolly work as advertised, fill their boots, as us old f*rts note.

tac
 
tac said:
arcticap said:
Don't Pyrodex pellets need to be loaded with one specifc end pointing toward the nipple in order for it to ignite reliably?
IIRC that's because one end is coated with black powder to aid ignition and that side must be loaded "head first".
Is it possible that the reported ignition problems are due to them not having been properly inserted into the chamber in the first place?
And I suppose that placing just a pinch of loose powder into the bottom of each chamber first could help insure pellet ignition without needing to resort to measuring out any loose powder, sort of like a mini primer charge.
Perhaps a wire handle can be glued onto a .22 short case to serve as a small & efficient primer scoop for a crushed pellet or loose powder.


Sir - life is just waaaay too short. By the time you have measured out the teeny little case and poured it in and settled the charge the right way around I've reloaded all my six chambers and I'm ready to shoot another six shots. Crushing the pellet seems to me to be defeating the object of having a pellet-form charge in the fust place.

There's a place for inventions like this - right up there with the double-ended hammer and the solar-powered flashlight that sends a beam of darkness during daylight hours.

It looks cool, until you try and make use of it.

Let those guys who feel the need for this idea, and who shoot the things in which they prolly work as advertised, fill their boots, as us old f*rts note.

tac

I have seen no one mention the cost of these pellets. However, I do know the cost of other pellets offered. It does not cost that much to manufacture, but there is a "convenience" charge applied. Have we become too lazy? I remember when there was no such thing as a remote control. You actually had to get your fat a** off the chair to change the channel.
 
I got some as a gift a while back. I shoot them out of my .44 1858 remington and my Cattleman carbine .44. I have had no bad experiences with them. I bought another container with my Cabela's points. I have to spend it on something. They are a lot faster reloading than measuring out a charge. They are also a little hotter than the same charge of 3f. The gun bucks a little more. The accuracy is about the same. I know my .36 navy sometimes has a problem with the loose pyrodex if I use a light load. I only shoot 3f goex out of it. The.44's work great with either loose pyrodex or the pellets. I use Remington caps if that is any help.
 
You hit the nail on the head! Yes the pellets are marked so you put the "hot" end toward the caps.

I have seen unburnt pellets fly through the air and make their own holes in the target(s)! Especially when you put 3 of them into a modern rifle to launch a pistol bullet in a sabot...the third one (under the sabot) sometimes doesn't ignite!

I only use real black 3Fg Goex, so I have no personal experience with problems with Pyro...plenty of other folks from our league have had problems. Most were cleaning issues compounded by poor ignition. Most clean guns can shoot Pyro (at least from what I've seen at the range).

The cost is what's unappealing to me. If I had to shoot a match on a REALLY windy day, the drop-in pellets wouldn't be so bad as spilling loose powder all over the loading table/stand.

Dave
 
About about using a small scoop full, I only mentioned it for the folks who can't differentiate which side of the pellet is the "hot" side or didn't even know that they had a hot side.
Why throw away a perfectly good pellet only because it's hard to tell which side is which?
 
am i missing some info? i have the pistol pellets not one word on loading pellets other than (never more than one pellet per cyl.) or are their other types of this out their?
 
I know something about this, but not everything. At least one manufacturer has marked the pellets to indicate which surface gets faced towards the ignition source (caps). That's what has been referred to in the previous post.

I can't remember which company makes what cause I don't use the subs. Others who know more than I will no doubt let you know what's what.

Dave
 
ok thanks just got the hodgdon "p" pellets, don't think i will get any more of them, will get powder from now on, got thees with the gun, bought the other can on sale, when you want to make smoke, get what one can afford.
 
The video shows 2 revolvers shooting Pyrodex pellets and they seem to be very potent. It's pretty smoky afterward too.

[youtube]pGkxQBtWOG8[/youtube]
 
Seems to be a lot more (violent) recoil with the pellets than with my standard Pyrodex P loads. Heck, I've seen less recoil out of a Walker shooting 60 grains (albeit a heavier gun). I'll stick with my loose powder, Thank You! Otherwise I'll go shoot my .44mag.
 
I have to beg to disagree with the recoil statement :hmm: as I shoot my Walker in competition. The recoil in the movie clip is from a loose hold necessitated by slip-cocking each revolver with the thumb. 30 grains in a light '58 is a potent charge, but no where near the rifle charge of a Walker.

One thing we can agree on--he doesn't have a problem with caps falling off too soon! :haha:

Dave
 
Having never fired a Walker, I'll have to bow to the voice of experience on that statement! Having said that, I stand my ground on the fact that the recoil appears to be more violent than the "perceived" recoil from my '58. (Seeing as how I can't view it without shooting it)
 
30 grains in a '58 is a potent charge. Pyro "P" is supposed to be a little "hotter" than Goex 3Fg, so you may be correct as far as the recoil of what ever you feed your revolver(some on this Forum use 15-20 grains of powder and lots of filler).

Since I don't know who's in the video clip, I can't say for sure whether or not the shooter didn't top-off the charge will a little black in addition to the pellets. People that make videos of themselves tend to want to put on a show, so that also has to be taken into consideration, especially when there's room left over in the chamber of a '58 and you don't want a misfire as the camera is taping......

Dave
 
I "won" some (3 cans) in a Cowboy shoot drawing once. I tried two cylinders full in an 1860 Army Pietta before I gave up in disgust, wondering why I had ever been so foolish, because I now had to clean my revolver twice, rather than once, all for a few hang-fires and six or seven varied poofs to bangs. I believe I gave away at least two of the cans - the third one may be hanging around somewhere in my reloading stuff, but it won't get used anytime soon.

The twice-cleaning routine comes in because Pyrodex uses perchlorates as part of its chemical makeup, and it is therefore more corrosive, more aggressively corrosive, than normal BP. Two bad experiences with Pyrodex - one in a cartridge revolver, one with these pellets, left me kicking myself for being stupid enough to try it twice.

Of course, if you'd really like to know how I felt, I'll stop trying to conceal my reaction and level with you! :v
 
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