Home Depot patch lube

[IronHand]

I was in the local HD looking for a wood finish and ran across this stuff.

It is just Beeswax and mineral oil. I thought it might make a good patch lube, so I put it on some patches and hung them up to dry. After about one hour they have a slick feeling to them (like Wonder Wads). I am going to leave them hanging overnight to see if they dry more.

If this works it will be a handy source for patch lube.

IronHand

 

[MedicMike3762]

Can’t wait to hear the results!

 

[jdw276]

Lay em down somewhere on wax paper. All the liquids will flow down to the end leaving uneven lube on your patches. Then the confusion begins as to why did x ??????

 

[OldRust]

As @jdw276 says, don't hang them, lay them down flat on wax paper or an old cookie sheet to keep the lube uniform.

Don't ask me how I know.

Thanks,
O.R.

 

[wiscoaster]

Are you 100% sure it's real beeswax? Some products labelled as such aren't, at least not entirely. Real beeswax is not cheap. "Natural waxes" could be just about anything from various plant or animal sources besides real beeswax. Doesn't necessarily mean it wouldn't work for patch lube, though.

 

[The Crisco Kid]

And so begins the saga of another miracle lube! The results will be interesting!

 

[IronHand]

FYI, after 12 hours hanging the material feels waxy, not moist. Much like wax paper.

The wax appears to be evenly distributed. I suspect that this is because the solution has a high viscosity and is retained by the weave of the substrate.

IronHand

 

[sussexmuzllodr]

Beating a............

 

[russellshaffer]

I looked it up:
Butcher block conditioner is a revitalizing blend of genuine beeswax, Brazilian carnauba wax (hardest natural wax available), and pure USP food grade mineral oil that is tasteless, odorless, and will never go rancid

 

[jdw276]

FYI, after 12 hours hanging the material feels waxy, not moist. Much like wax paper.

The wax appears to be evenly distributed. I suspect that this is because the solution has a high viscosity and is retained by the weave of the substrate.

IronHand

With the first batch of testing no big worries. As you do further refinements and think this is the lube of all lubes just lay it out. It may feel that the distribution is equal but it may not be. Just takes a potential variable out when this batch runs out. If it matters Mr. Schultz recommended this when you are load testing for accuracy. So this writer is just plagerising.

He recommends doing this for all lube mixes for consistency......

 

[Tumbledown]

The mineral oil is going to give you problems. It is a petroleum product and will cause black powder to leave a hard fouling.

 

[Frontier's]

The mineral oil will be fine. That's all bore butter is mostly and look how many folks love it.

 

[Tumbledown]

The mineral oil will be fine. That's all bore butter is mostly and look how many folks love it.

Those are probably the same people who have to swab every 2-3 shots.

 

[smoothshooter]

The mineral oil is going to give you problems. It is a petroleum product and will cause black powder to leave a hard fouling.

Ballistol is a popular patch lube and it is said to be mostly mineral oil.

 

[Kentuckyjed]

Just put it on your butcher block. Use human grade saliva.

 

[Ohio Rusty]

I use that exact butcher block conditioner on all my period wood ware, wood knife handles, etc. It is good stuff for what it was intended.
Ohio Rusty ><>

 

[Nav]

I just use straight mineral oil on butcher blocks (and bacon grease on cast iron).

 

[BuffaloSoldier]

And as the 60s song says "and the beat goes on". I am quite new at ML, so I try to appreciate that everyone has some sort of favorite something that they will defend to the bitter end.

 

[French Colonial]

And as the 60s song says "and the beat goes on". I am quite new at ML, so I try to appreciate that everyone has some sort of favorite something that they will defend to the bitter end.

See there, you already have some people on this forum figured out!

 

[Nav]

Spit, Windex, Dawn, whale oil, mineral oil, bear grease, Beezle Nut Oil, etc., etc. It would seem to me that ANY liquid or semi-solid/viscous liquid works. Literally anything you put on your patches will shoot, and since it's pretty hard to actually blow up a ML people try anything and everything.

I

Start one on patch material. I only use Truffula Tufts. Best patches South of the Klondike.