Sticky residue it will leave. Its very obvious at the crown. Leave that nasty stuff out. It doesnt aid in reloading easily, but used as a thickener.
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Homebrewed lube mix w/tallow
- Thread starter 1950DAVE
- Start date
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If it leaves a sticky residue at the crown, either you have used too much beeswax in your mix or it probably needs to be further purified as it probably contains some residual honey.
Both Beeswax and olive oil contain multiple alkanes. Alkanes are one of the "secret" corrosion inhibitors found in many off the shelf gun protectants.
Both Beeswax and olive oil contain multiple alkanes. Alkanes are one of the "secret" corrosion inhibitors found in many off the shelf gun protectants.
rodwha
58 Cal.
Doesn’t leave a mess at the crown on my rifle. Maybe I have to look harder. Can’t say I’ve made a note to check, but you certainly look while loading and ramming home.
thanks guys!
If you use it and like the results, go for it. It wont ever see my bores again.
I've been using a beeswax olive oil and Murphy's oil soap mix. With good results of soft fouling. Easy loading and good accuracy. Just what's been working for .
I understand. I feel the same way about Bore Butter. We all like what we like, that's why there are so many different lube recipes.
One reason I like using beeswax in my lube, is because I have a gun with a grease hole. I't's hard to find a lube that works well in a grease hole and doesn't make a mess unless you use some beeswax in it.. My lube also finds other uses too, hand cream, leather softener, waterproofer, lip balm, conical lube, ect. Heck, I even use it to lube shotgun shells when roll crimping. What it lacks in greatness, it makes up for in versatility.
I've thought about adding a touch of Murphy's to my mix. Just a touch.
And that what I do just a touch.
I use:
1 beeswax
1 lamb tallow
.5 paraffin wax
Works great in all my rifles
1 beeswax
1 lamb tallow
.5 paraffin wax
Works great in all my rifles
Have you seen or made any "Stumpy's Moose Snot (SMS)" ? he's a moderator here on the forum and he published it years ago. I have used nothing else since. It's specifically made so you can keep patched round balls in a loading block without them drying out. I use it as my regular patching material. I carry some ticking cut to width. I rub it in my tin of SMS until I feel it come through the ticking. Then I put it on the barrel, put the lead ball on top of it, and short start it, cutting the rest of the patching at the barrel before seating the ball fully. Then I don't wipe between shots. If it gets a little tough to seat, I just use more SMS on the next patch and keep going.
This used to be and probably still is a sticky note on the site somewhere, but here's his ingredients and directions. Finished produce will be about the viscosity of paste shoe wax:
Twisted_1in66
Dan
This used to be and probably still is a sticky note on the site somewhere, but here's his ingredients and directions. Finished produce will be about the viscosity of paste shoe wax:
Stumpy's Moose Snot
A premium multi-shot between wiping (10+) patch lube stable over a wide temperature range.
SPECIFICALLY designed for use of patched round balls in a loading block
Beeswax 2 oz.
Castor Oil 8 oz.
Murphy's Oil Soap 1 oz.
1/2 oz. = 1 tbsp = 3 tsp
1 oz. = 2 tbsp = 6 tsp
Heat beeswax in a soup can set a pot of water. ( A double-boiler. I keep my beeswax in a one pound coffee can and measure out what I need by melting it and pouring it into measuring cups). Add just enough water so the inner can does not begin to float (should be just short of the lube level in the can). Heat the water to a low boil. In a separate can, add the castor oil and Murphy's oil soap (cold). Once the beeswax is melted, swap the castor oil can in the pot of water for the beeswax. Add the beeswax to the oils. It will clump up. Stir with an ice tea spoon as the mixture heats up. When it fully melts there will be a scum that floats to the top and just won't mix in. Be patient. DO NOT COOK THE MIXTURE. Once the solids are dissolved there is no need to heat further. Skim the scum off. Remove the mix from the heat and wipe the water off the outside (so it won't drip into the container when you pour it out).
FINAL TOP SECRET STEP: Add a teaspoon of Murphy's Oil Soap and stir vigorously. This last step makes the lube frothy and smooth - really adds to the appearance; though it doesn't seem to matter to the function of the lube. Clamp the can in the jaws of a vice-grip pliers and pour into the waiting tins. Allow to cool a half hour.
Note: it if is a hinged tin - line the edge that has the hinges with a strip of aluminum foil so it doesn't ooze out before it cools.
I absolutely swear by this stuff! Hope it helps.A premium multi-shot between wiping (10+) patch lube stable over a wide temperature range.
SPECIFICALLY designed for use of patched round balls in a loading block
Beeswax 2 oz.
Castor Oil 8 oz.
Murphy's Oil Soap 1 oz.
1/2 oz. = 1 tbsp = 3 tsp
1 oz. = 2 tbsp = 6 tsp
Heat beeswax in a soup can set a pot of water. ( A double-boiler. I keep my beeswax in a one pound coffee can and measure out what I need by melting it and pouring it into measuring cups). Add just enough water so the inner can does not begin to float (should be just short of the lube level in the can). Heat the water to a low boil. In a separate can, add the castor oil and Murphy's oil soap (cold). Once the beeswax is melted, swap the castor oil can in the pot of water for the beeswax. Add the beeswax to the oils. It will clump up. Stir with an ice tea spoon as the mixture heats up. When it fully melts there will be a scum that floats to the top and just won't mix in. Be patient. DO NOT COOK THE MIXTURE. Once the solids are dissolved there is no need to heat further. Skim the scum off. Remove the mix from the heat and wipe the water off the outside (so it won't drip into the container when you pour it out).
FINAL TOP SECRET STEP: Add a teaspoon of Murphy's Oil Soap and stir vigorously. This last step makes the lube frothy and smooth - really adds to the appearance; though it doesn't seem to matter to the function of the lube. Clamp the can in the jaws of a vice-grip pliers and pour into the waiting tins. Allow to cool a half hour.
Note: it if is a hinged tin - line the edge that has the hinges with a strip of aluminum foil so it doesn't ooze out before it cools.
Twisted_1in66
Dan
Thanks Dan I'll give it a try.
Dave
Dave
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Murphy's Oil Soap
Elk Tallow
Bees wax
I adjust bees wax for weather, more in the summer much less in Cold months.
Elk Tallow
Bees wax
I adjust bees wax for weather, more in the summer much less in Cold months.
Stumpy moose snot has been my go to grease for years. My last batch I added 1.5 oz of medical paraffin wax which has some kind of oil mixed in. It softened up the overall batch a little, but I can still get multiple shots before wiping and cleanup is a breeze.
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To my wife's dismay I have formulated and mixed lubes on the kitchen stove for over 40 years. I have used store bought additives such as alox and bore butters, type F transmission fluid and bear grease.. Formulating lubes is like adjusting load, patches, and charge. Is one better than the other, maybe, depends on each individual I have used all that I have made. Although I have a degree of attendance, my education has been trial and error. I find that smoke poles are not rocket science, but they can make a fool out of anyone, good lube, bad lube, no lube at all.
My advise is to just use a reference to start with like in previous post and start formulating. Type F transmission fluid is basically paraffin, In small percentages works well for me along with real bees wax, dab of Crisco or unsalted lard and a touch of alox( Bullet lube for the unmentionables.)
My advise is to just use a reference to start with like in previous post and start formulating. Type F transmission fluid is basically paraffin, In small percentages works well for me along with real bees wax, dab of Crisco or unsalted lard and a touch of alox( Bullet lube for the unmentionables.)
Jay
36 Cl.
I’m just wondering did you wait till your wife was out of the house to use the kitchen These are some great recipes I can’t wait to try some
It still is, it's right here.
https://www.muzzleloadingforum.com/threads/stumpkillers-lube-recipes.26771/
