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Homemade FFFFG powder?

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Just in time for Halloween & Oktoberfest.

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Glazed powder goes back much further in time and it has nothing to do with graphite, although graphite is now added during the glazing process. Glazing powder is simply polishing the already sized granules to knock off the sharp corners.

This polishing process does other things too but it also makes the powder granules more shiny, like obsidian can appear shiny. Obsidian is volcanic glass hence the term glazing.

Adding graphite during the glazing process supposedly gives some advantages. Perhaps it does. All the powder I have ever used has had it added during the glazing process so that is what I am used to.

I will note that the Brits thought that graphites disadvantages outweighed the advantages and refused to allow black lead (graphite) to be added to their military powder.
 
Many years ago, I read about corned powder. That is, mixing powder contents with water, forming a slurry, drying it off and crushing with a weighted wood.

Before corning, powder carried on the battlefield mixed but the weight of powder components being different, tended to separate into the different parts. Also, un-corned powder would send dust over the wagon train which could be ignited and cause explosions.

Called corned because the crushed particles resembled grains of corn (wheat). Sifting through mesh graded the powder.
 
Mad Monk, perhaps the most knowledgable man in the world when it comes to black powder agrees with you.

In a pdf file entitled SA Pernambuco he says,

"...The purpose of polishing powder, or
glazing, is to round
sharp edges of the grains and to
polish the grains' surfaces smooth.
During the polishing process the
surfaces of the grains are compacted
and hardened.
Polished powder will not shed dust
as easily as unpolished
powder during shipping and
handling..."

As for graphite, he says,

"When the plant corned the press cake, in the corning mill, the powder would next require
screening to separate the corning mill product into the specified grain sizes. The corning
process produces a considerable amount of dust that is collected and reworked back into
the powder press. Graphite is added to the powder, dusted on, to increase screening rates.
After the corned powder is tray dried it must be “polished” in the glazing barrels...."
 
Amen...miss Mad Monk around here. Wasn't much about black powder he didn't know by heart! :thumbsup:
 
I have not fired my flintlock pistol in very long time, but when I fired it I used both 3fg for charge and prime. Any misfires I chalked up to the vent hole issues.

Still it would always surprise me how well it fired off with just by using 3f alone.

If you feel you must try it then you could try this as a small amount of temporary powder close to the 4fg used as priming powder. I would not make too much, but this might allow you notice any difference between priming and pistol powder.

I found these instructions on Track Of The Wolf in relation to their nipple primer:

If you do not have FFFFg priming powder available, place one-half teaspoon of FFg or FFFg into a saucer. Press the spoon with your thumb, and gently grind the powder to dust. Unscrew the rear cap to fill the primer. The inside cone shape fits all nipple sizes. Primed nipples will hang-fire slightly.

Personally, I think just using 3fg is good enough.
 
Maybe TOTW thinks the dust their method will produce is OK but a very slight breeze will blow it away.

4F powder is not dust, as the following list of grain sizes indicates:

FF = .59-1.19 mm (.023-.0469 inch) Average = .89 mm or .035 inches.

FFF = .29-.84 mm (.011-.033 inch) Average = .57 mm or .022 inches.

FFFF = .15-.42 mm (.006-.017 inch) Average = .29 mm or .011 inches.

There is some overlap between the sizes so one could justifiably say there is some 4F powder in a charge of 3F powder. :hmm:
 
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