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Horn# 2, 1st attempt at scrimshaw

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krecords

36 Cal.
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This is my second Powder horn attempt and my first attempt at scrimshaw.

horn2_08.jpg

Finished horn

horn2_07.jpg


horn2_06.jpg

carved Cat face plug

horn2_02.jpg

butt plug with a hand made over sized staple.

horn2_01.jpg

My signature I use for artwork.

horn2_04.jpg

scrimshaw map of the mountains I live in modeled on an actual map drawn in the mid 1800's

I now have the greatest respect for real scrimshaw artists! My shoulders ache after this one!

Kirby
 
Not bad Kirby. What tool are you using to scrim?
BTW, I like that spout plug. :thumbsup:
Scott
 
Scott,
I did the majority of the scrim with a dental tool I have had for 20years, It was for cleaning circuit boards but this is a better use.I have to admit I did the accents around the boarders with a very fine dremmel bit just to see what it would do. It looks OK I guess, but I don't like it as well as the effect the dental tool has. I ordered a carbide scribe tool to try on the next one. I may have to relief carve one as well, just to see how that looks.

The carved plug was a pain as it is small enough that it was hard to handle.
Kirby
 
Meow. Thats a nice horn and plug. The scratchin looks great. You don gud.
Dusty
:thumbsup:
 
Thanks for all the encouragement people. don't be afraid to offer up some suggestions for improvement. I like to hear what other people like or dislike in my artwork.

Horner,
No, actually I traded for the diamond willow. A man wanted me to carve him a cane. Since I have never sold my art work I offered to trade him my carving work for more of the diamond willow he wanted the cane made out of. He has kids living in Montana which he visits on a regular basis. He brought me a stack full so I made his cane and the chair that the horn is sitting on. His cane had an elk antler handle with a beautiful polished stone inlay. I wish I had taken a picture of that one before I gave it to him.

Kirby
 
I use a xacto knife for my scrimshaw. With the knife I can vary the pressure to get fine or heavy lines. It's taken a lot of practice though. I do want to order some scribers like Stumblin Wolf uses and fine up the detail of my designs.
Looking at your map, is that the headwaters of the Powder River and the Elkhorns? Did you use the original GLO plats, or find some other old map of the area? Again, great job Kirby. Keep it up, it only gets better...
Scott
 
Doin' good, Kirby! Wish my second horn looked that good! Them carved stoppers are a pain, heres what I do (even with a lathe) leave the part what goes in the spout oversize so you can clamp it in a vise and then carve the tiny $%# thing! That way you have something to get a grip on and then you can hand file it down to fit. You ARE making them tapered aren't ya? :thumbsup:
 
Scott,
Yes the headwaters of the Powder, John Day, Burnt, and Grand Ronde rivers and all the hunting areas in between. first I found a map on line under historical maps of Oregon. I used the style they had used to draw their map. The original was sparse on this area. I then looked at a modern map book I have showing the area as topography but 3d shaded. I used the general outlines of the mountain ranges to define the peaks making sure the main rivers were apparent. Then I scratched away at it.It may be a bit cluttered but then so is the mountain range we have here.

Stumblin Wolf,
The stopper is tapered some but I had to make this one fit tight against the back of the head so it really doesn't have any expansion room. What is your experience with tapered vs non tapered plugs?
kirby
 
tapered plugs won't get stuck! I also taper the spout hole with a long tapered carbide burr. A round rat tail file will also work.
 
Stumblin Wolf,
I will take your advice, I get to re do the plug anyway as I dropped the horn today and busted it off. will drill the cat head and replace the plug with an over sized piece of soft wood, then taper the horn hole with a rat tail file. I will then re-carve the plug to fit. Thanks for the advice!
 
Kirby, I use a rat tail file to taper the spout on my horns. It works well. Take care on doing this. If you use too much pressure, you may crack the spout, especially if you have carved it down so it is thin. Been there, done that...
Scott
 
Been there, done that! I like to(now) finish the work on the inside of the neck, tapering the hole, etc. BEFORE I work on the outside.

I use a temporary plug in the mouth to support the thin horn while I work on it. I leave a "lip" at the mouth to help strengthen this area.

Of course, folks can do what they like. What I do is only a suggestion, to avoid some of the mistakes, and waste of labor on ruined horns.
 
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