Horn lesson

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Seems every time I work on a horn, I have issues, especially with the plug.
("Bill, your work may be uneven, but it sure is ugly.")
After carefully analyzing the photos in the saintly Sibleys' book, I realize that all the horns I have fooled with (apt term) have been much too thick at the mouth -- 1/8 to 3/16 with all sorts of inner ribs and irregularities. I'm rasslin' with one right now, but got sensible after seeing the light and ordered three proper horns from John Shorb. Plugs should fit OK, and leave me an airtight horn to mutilate further.
The Sibleys sure do make it look easy. Must be the experience that I'm missing, along with the fine motor skills. :grin:
P.S. I'm saving all those "wet-dog-smell" horn shavings for hide glue ...
 
can ya send a pic yer numbers are not makin much sense,be glad to help if I can.Done a horn er two
 
John has good quality horns. You'll be satisfied with what he sends you. Working on a horn, though, if it is too thick, then take it down. That's what my instructor kept telling me, take it down. You can grind away at those inner ridges to round out the inside, as well as taking material off of the outside to thin it up.
Scott
 
My Bad Bill,didn't read rite,yer talkin plug end,if the ridges are on the inside,either use a file to take em off ,or if yer handy ...the old dremel.same if the ridges are on the outside.On the outside ,I tend to leave em on,gives a horn some character,the ridges on the outside ,run around the horn,while I find the ridges on the inside ,go up and down the horn
 
I am not sure,but for what its worth, I have always thought that inner ridges on horns indicate either a rougher range fed type bovine, or a variety of heavy thick bramah type horn ( sold cheap by outfits like Dixie in the 80s). An inner ridged horn is often quite thick if not solid up near the tip as well, which can be ideal for lathe turning if they dont delaminate, but not so good for powder horn construction...years back, most available large buffalo horns seemed to be ridged inside, and I attributed it to stress and bad graze on the range, but I noticed that no grain fed local cow horns ever had inner ridges, and they usually made beautiful easily worked horns...and Im guessing that now, most buff horns are by products of animals raised for meat and maybe fed lots better than their old free ranged ancestors, and these new buff horns are free of ridges...I really think that how the animal is raised has a big influence on the horns workability, but sadly, any history of a horn's origins is usually a total mystery these days...at least to me.
TCA
 
Used to be, dairy cows had the best horn, but genetic engineering has about done away with really good horns.
 
Whatever it takes to smooth those ridges. You only have to do enough to fit a butt plug in...
Scott
 
An abrasive flap wheel in a hand drill or press will smooth things out pretty quickly.
 
I have a horn that I want to work, but man, they stink when you work them! Is there a solution for that?
 
I scrape mine and file. When I am ready to make the base plug, have the horn smooth, I push the base on a foam dinner plate to make my pattern for the wood,then fit it in the horn, then trace on wood to cut. Saves a lot of work. Dilly
 
Pork Chop said:
I have a horn that I want to work, but man, they stink when you work them! Is there a solution for that?
ClothesPin.jpg

:wink:
 
What did the "Old Boys" do without styrofoam plates?.....Answer: Rounded the base on powder horns! How many original powder horns have you seen with a natural shaped base plug? Not many, I suspect!

Also, about 99% of the ridged interior in buffalo horns is because those horns are from Cow Buffs. Buffalo horns DO SMELL more like what comes out of the other end of the critter, but cow horn working isn't that bad unless your using electric power tools! Working with hand tools also gives you a better feel for working with horn! Just my 2 1/2 cents worth!

Rick

Claude has the remedy....... :rotf:
 
I use a crooked knife and a rasp to take them down. Lots easier to fit a plug that way. I like a horn to be "smooth" inside and out...
 
Buy a bag of cotton balls. Keep them near your workbench. Put two of them in your nostrils while working with power tools on horns. You really don't want what you are smelling to be getting into your sinuses, or lungs. Wear a mask over your mouth and nose instead, if the cotton balls aren't your thing.

If you use power tools on horns, set up a good vacuum to clean the dust away from you and the horn. If you can't do this, then do the work outside, in a good breeze, with you standing up wind of the work.

A good Hoof Knife, or " Crooked Knife" is a fine tool to use to cut away the ridges on the inside of cow horns.

Think twice before using any tools that makes " dust". If the dust isn't there, you won't be breathing it either. Think about that. Please. :thumbsup:
 
I agree with Horner 75, not many original horns were done in their original shape. 99% were done with the base end rounded and then the plug was either turned on a lathe or a piece cut and fitted. Sorry, but oval horns, regardless of color, just don't cut it. Save'em for spoons, combs, rum horns, etc. I know quite a few will disagree, but what's more pleasing to the eye? Check ebay, old horns on there all the time, and I've yet to see many not rounded at the base end.
Other than that, hornmaking is fun and can teach alot about our colonial history by doing a little research.
gary :thumbsup:
 
Well, here's what I am up against:

IMG_0952.jpg

The one on the left and the two on the right are from John Shorb, and I should have started from there in the first place. The one in the middle is the one I am working on right now, and it started out like the one on the left next to it -- big and gnarly and thick. Guess I need to get a bigger scraper and wade back in as it is mighty thick to get it to respond to the rounding plug.
 
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