how difficult to cast lead ball?

[MattyB]

So, after becoming hooked on muzzleloaders, I think I want to cast my own ball. How difficult is this?

I have seen moulds by Lee that are aluminum, and lyman made of steel; is there a big difference in how they are used, maintanance, etc...?

I tried using search, but came back with so many irrelevant threads, I thought it would just be easier to ask.

Thanks.

 

[gmww]

I would recommend Lee as they are cheap and work fine. A small cast iron pot, lead pour and propane stove. Camp stove or one of those propane stoves used for turkey frying works great. :thumbsup:

I first clean my mould with lighter fluid, the smoke the mould using a candle. Smoking a mould it putting soot in the mould to prevent the lead from sticking. You can go with pure lead or wheel weights for RB.

 

[RADeO]

You will have greater success if you stick with pure lead for rifles and save the wheel-weight metal for smoothbores. In a rifle, trying to start a ball cast from wheel weights isn't a whole lot of fun unless one utilizes a hammer, or the ball is significantly under bore size and a thick patch is used. Just my humble opinion. :hatsoff:

 

[douglas duncan]

I had the same question as you.
it really is simple buy some lead. i picked some up in the scrap yard found some roof flashing which is pure lead 98% pure is good enough. it was clean, came from a new install which is a bonus.
then go and get a cast iron dutch oven 4 quart will do fine. I put about forty pounds in it. used a camp chef cooker. or some thing similar will work. you have to clean the lead and make your little ingots I used muffin pans for mine. they will fit in the pots fine.

I bought the lee molds $18.50 for the double mold which works great. once you get going the balls come out pretty good. I am using the RCBS pot.

I found out once the mold gets to the right temp your balls will come out more consistence. i like mine to weigh no less than 232.0 grains for the 54 cal. and they average about 234.0 any thing less than 232.0 goes back to get melted down, you will want to weigh your balls.

usually the first 50 - 100 balls will weigh less than the others. it takes a little knack to learn the right pouring speed and temp for the lead and mold.
that is why you want to weigh them.

 

[cowpoke1955]

Try F&M Reloading for Lee products: http://www.fmreloading.com/ . $16.58 for double cavity molds with handle and $43.99 for the Production Pot IV. I've been using Lee molds and production pot for over 25 years with no problems. The money you save with Lee products you can use to buy more lead :thumbsup: .

 

[nchawkeye]

I've been casting for my .54 and .40 for over 20 years...All I bought was a Rapine bag mold and a dipper...

I use an old Coleman as a heat source, a empty canned vegetable can to melt the lead and SnoSeal for flux...

That's really all you need...

 

[torn moc]

casting is simple once you get your supplies.
Its much cheaper than buying factory made stuff.
I have been csasting for 10 years now and make ball & bullets, minnies of all differnt sizes I need. Its a nice way to spend a cold winter evening....

 

[Bobby_Ironsights]

I just did a bunch up. I used a stainless steel 1 cup measuring cup on my kitchen stove, airgun pellets from my airgun pellet trap.

I use the lee mould, casts a 320 grain R.E.A.L. bullet and a .490 round ball at the same time.

I use birthday candles to smoke the mould, and I slice one up real thin and tiny to use as flux.

It's not rocket science.

 

[50cal.cliff]

Bobby, it's not a good idea to cast inside unless you have some way of removing the fumes from the area. The fumes are not good to be breathing, best to do outside in well ventilated area, or at least with a fan to to push/draw the fumes outside! IMO
Take a look at this page http://www.pachmayr.com/lymanproducts/images/Bullet Guide.pdf and follow the basic rules to casting and it's not a problem!

 

[BrownBear]

The mechanics are about as difficult as running a gumball machine. Put your money (lead) in, turn the crank (sprue plate) and out pops your ball.

Once you have the lead melted and the mould heated, it really is that easy. A very few little fiddly fine tuning things to get up and running the first time around, but they're all covered well in the page of instructions that come with Lee moulds and most others.

So easy in fact, you'll wonder why you never did it before.

 

[Bill Bryan]

Aluminum moulds are cheaper but I like the steel ones. They hold the temperature better. Also I like to dip with a laddle instead of pouring from a bottom spout. I feel like the cast bullets are more uniform. That's just me.

 

[Johnny Tremain]

Dont forget the themometer

want to get the molten lead to the correct temp

 

[flaming canvas]

Aluminum moulds are cheaper but I like the steel ones. They hold the temperature better. Also I like to dip with a laddle instead of pouring from a bottom spout. I feel like the cast bullets are more uniform. That's just me.

I will second that motion. I think I can actually do it a little faster this way than with the bottom pour pot. I pour a fairly large puddle on top so that it can sink in as the metal shrinks. It seems that the large chunk comes off the sprue plate with less effort than the little bit in the fill hole that I got with the production pot.

Regarding above post on ventilation, it is imperative that you have adequate ventilation. Exposure to lead can cause permanent impairment of brain function.



That could explain a lot for this group. :rotf: :rotf: :rotf:

 

[buttonbuck]

just curious on the stove question I use a coleman single burner duel fuel using unleaded gasoline it melts just fine to clean as I have cast about 50 ingots from scrap lead. How hot does it get with that flame using a cast Iron pot, I do not have a thermometer but am concerned with vapors fumes. I have not committed to a production pot or a thermometer because of funds maybe Christmas. Just wondering what temp readings others got using similar technology.

 

[Emet Huntsman]

just a couple of safety tips:
Second on the ventilation issue. Lead fumes are not good.

1) Put the lead in the pot and bring to temp -- you want to make sure all moisture is boiled away -- DO NOT drop lead into the pot if you are not sure it is free of moisture -- the steam explosion can cause you major hurt!

2) Wear shoes, not sandals -- lead splatters have a tendency to find bare flesh and they love to get between your toes.

3) gloves are a good idea too for the above reason

4) keep kids away from the area!

5) just use common sense

 

[trapper89]

Came across this thread in a search. I started casting lead soldiers when I was about 10 years old. Used to sell kits in the Sears catalog. It's not hard to cast lead. Just read what these fellows posted, smoke your mold, and remember to NEVER let even a drop of water (including sweat from your forehead over the campfire) near your melted lead. Next thing you know, you'll be casting pewter forend caps.