How do I cut down sheet lead?

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wtilenw

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I have posted this question under the "Got Lead" post and got one suggestion from Guncobbler. I was hoping to get a little more exposure in a post of my own.
The question I have is "How should I go about cutting down a sheet of lead that is 2 feet by 7 feet by 3/8 inch thick?". I have successfully cut down the 1/8" thick sheets with a heavy pair of shears. This is a whole different ball game.I thought it would be cool to figure out a way to heat up a wire with electricity and melt through it, like a cheese cutter. I'm no electrician though. Any suggestions? Thanks folks,
Idaho PRB
 
one of them stone cutter chisels that are bout 3" wide and a big hammer...........bob
 
Milwauke Sawsall recripricating saw or equivelent with coarse wood cutting / demolition blade. I use mine to cut up telephone line sheathing and pipe lead. It walks right on through the stuff. BJH
 
I use my B & D sabersaw with coarse tooth blade or when I worked on lead phone cable, I had a short heavy blade and tapped thru with hammer
stickwalker
 
:hmm: Sabre saw, reciporcating, or even a band saw with a course blade. Make sure you wear eye protection, lead "saw dust" gets hot and ain't good for your eyes
Soggy
 
Thanks everyone, no excuses now, guess I'll put on the safety glasses and the dust mask and the gloves and go for it. Something's bound to work well.
Idaho PRB
 
I agree with Bob (White Buffalo) - use a wide edged cold chisel to crease the lead sheet and then just bend it apart. Better than cutting with a saw which will create particles thus creating the potential for ingestion. I say go with the cold chisel
Bob H.
 
I've used an ax or a hachet to cut sheet lead ..
Worked pretty good.
Winter well lads; and look good !! :winking:
Limpin'frog :snore: :snore: :snore: :snore:
" Gee; that looked like it hurt !!! "
 
If you have access to an air compressor and pneumatic hammer try the dovetail shaped chisel.
 
An axe and a stump of wood as an anvil works great. You'll have the job done in short order.
Don
 
I have generally used the Horn's method of making a fold and then refolding until it broke. I have also used an axe and section of wood.

I do not care to create or breathe lead dust with any kind of electric saw.

CS
 
I'll chime in with those opposed to high speed power tools. Lead is really nasty stuff to get in your system, and getting it in your lungs is the worst.

If your lead has white stuff on the surface, look out. That's lead oxide, which can get airborne easily and can make you sincerely regret your actions years down the road.

Use low speed tools, dust mask, all of that.

Lots of light helps, so you can see if any dust is happening.

And be sure to wash your hands and clothes before the stuff spreads around to eventually end up in your mouth, eyes, or lungs.
 
WRussell said:
And be sure to wash your hands and clothes before the stuff spreads around to eventually end up in your mouth, eyes, or lungs.

I would like to also add that one should clean their tools (saws, axes, knives, ect.) as well when done...

If you cut lead with a saw and then use the same saw for firewood for the house, you could bring lead dust into the home via the logs for the fireplace...

Or even worse, using the band saw to cut lead and then making wooden christmas toys for the grand-kids with the same saw, subliminal stuff like this happens...
 
This is one time WD40 may come in handy. If your lead has lead oxide on it( the white stuff), spray the surface with WD 40, before cutting. I think a big, wide, cold roll chisel and a 2 pound sledge hammer is enough to crease it so you can bend off chunks to melt. Wear gloves, and one of the breathing masks made of styrofoam. They are cheap, and will protect your mouth and nose from lead dust. If you do use WD40 to hold the oxide onto the lead, you will want to throw your chunks into a pale of water with soap, to cut the WD 40. Then dry the lead thoroughly in the sun before going near a lead pot with it! You don't want oil or water anywhere near molten lead.
 
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