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How do u scrape?

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I hate sanding a stock, it takes forever. How about a quick lesson on how to scrape a stock smooth. What do you scrape with? If I ever want to punish myself again by assembling a component set of parts I would like to try this method. I didn't see the technique mentioned in Recreating the American Longrifle or I would've given it a try. Thanks in advance. Jim
 
Check out Woodcrafters for cabinet scrapers. Cost about $7.00 each or you can make your own from old saw blades. About 5 to 10 years ago Muzzle Blasts had an article on making your own scrapers and if you call Friendship they may be able to get you an old magazine or help. You put a "Bur" on the end of the scraper that shaves tiny bits of wood,(file 90 degrees and then use a rod on one edge). This is different than just scraping with the edge of a knife. The best way to take scratches out of a stock is to never put them in there to start. Obviously you need to practice on some scrap wood before going wild on a stock.
A rifle stock obviously has a lot more curves than a flat panel of a cabinet so that is why a lot of folks make their own scrapers(in a variety of shapes) from old saw blades.
 
Check out Woodcrafters for cabinet scrapers. Cost about $7.00 each or you can make your own from old saw blades. About 5 to 10 years ago Muzzle Blasts had an article on making your own scrapers and if you call Friendship they may be able to get you an old magazine or help. You put a "Bur" on the end of the scraper that shaves tiny bits of wood,(file 90 degrees and then use a rod on one edge).

You can also find scrapers in various curved patterns at specialty shops like Woodcraft, Rockler, and some of the better big-box home centers. I've seen sets of straight and curved scrapers for under $25. Like Crockett said, they're easy enough to make from old saw blades, and you can customize to fit your stock and hand.

You can also use glass as a scraper. I do for very fine work on larger surfaces- takes off a hair-thin shaving, but requires heavy gloves, face & eye protection, and a ton more care than steel scrapers. The advantage of glass for a beginner is getting the initial feel for exactly how LIGHT a touch is required. Too much pressure, the glass shatters. Too little nothing comes off and you burnish the wood. As with any other method test first on scrap to learn your tool and technique.

vic
 
To ease sanding I scrape by using a razor blade with a safety back or one that has a metal edge serving as a back. They are cheap, efficient and you don't have to worry about sharpening or keeping an edge...just toss them away. They do a good job and are extremely flexible.
 
My absolute favorite is a sharp knife. Preasure determins,,,severity (?). I like to pick up quality discarded knives at yard sales and grind to my desired configuration. Just keep the steel cold when worling to shape or cutting. Sharpen only the back edge and they'll work just great.
 
Take a glass pain and cut it into 2-3" pieces.each one is the worlds best finish scraper offer
 
I haven't used Woodcraft scrapers to smooth gun stocks out yet, but they do a great job on cabinets. They create an edge as smooth as a baby's bottom. My other hobby is woodworking and I have built a fair amount of furniture. The Woodcraft scrapers work well and you can get them in all kinds of shapes to fit the curves of the stock. I hope to prove this in the not too distant future.

:m2c:
 
As a former knife scraper let me add that a true cabinet scraper is filed flat at 90 degrees. A burnishing rod is then run forcefully along one edge to get a little curl( or bur) in the scraper. With a knife you produce saw dust but with a scraper you are supposed to get little shavings. If you're using a blade, fine. That's what I did but try a real scraper, you'll be glad you did!
A few years back there was an article in Muzzle Blasts. This guy made a little wood jig to get perfect 90 degree angles on the scraper and then put on the curl. Various patterns could contrived.
 
Little shavings, like this?
scraper2.jpg

The shavings are shown with a couple of scrapers I made from a piece of spring steel.
They have the rolled edges (burrs) crockett was talking about.

As you can see, the spring steel (got it from Susie at Muzzleloader Builders Supply for a few bucks) was hardened and then tempered to a blueish color. You really don't want the steel to be harder than that because it will be darn near impossible to roll over the edges on it if it is.
 
Zoni,

For rolling the little edge on a hard steel scraper nothing beats a wrist pin from an automobile engine. If you find one of those wrist pins grab it.

I should also point out that if one uses a scraper on a curly maple stock take care on the fore end portion of the stock. Angle the scraper to the direction of travel.

The difference between end grain and grain parallel to the surface allows the scraper to remove different amounts of wood on those two grain directions. You can get a wavy wood fore end surface.
When used at an angle to the direction of scraping you span the different sections of wood "curl" and get a flatter surface.
 
Little shavings, like this?

You really don't want the steel to be harder than that because it will be darn near impossible to roll over the edges on it if it is.

Nice shavings, Zonie. Don't ya just love the feel of a good scraper taking off that almost microscopic curl :) and the whisper-soft sound of the steel on wood. I use an old file as a burr forming tool- took off the wood grip, wrapped the clogged file end in padding, and instant second life for an old tool that would have otherwise hit the bin.

Now if you save the shavings, it makes good tinder and non-pc firestarters mixed with old candlewax and poured into the cardboard egg cartons.
 
Crockett, is there any special steel used? Is it just your typical flat stock that can be had at a hardware store?
 
You can use a piece of ordinary handsaw blade. Find a beater at a garage sale and you have a lifetime supply of scraper stock- also makes a good patch knife. You can find saw blades designed for power reciprocating saws at Home Depot etc but stay away from high speed steel or bi-metal steel. You'll have to temper it.
 
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