Plain Maple Colonial is finished

[Pratt1861]

Hi, thanks for your comment. Congratulations on your new kit. From what information I was able to gather when I was doing mine is that slotting the under lugs is not as important with a standard grade stock as opposed to one with a lot of curl as the wood is less likely to move. Most originals were not slotted but some do have slightly oversized holes in the under lugs. If you do some searches on here you will find a bunch of good ideas about slotting the under lugs. I didn't want to buy a jewelers saw for mine so I just got one of those cheap little wire saws at the camping section at Wally World and used it to slightly elongate the holes and it worked pretty well. I then got a round needle file and smoothed and evened out the slot. It really doesn't have to be much of a slot. Don't enlarge the hole any up or down, just horizontally. As stated, some people don't even worry about this step. I chose to do mine just very slightly. Have fun putting together your kit just be prepared for some things to go easier than others. If you make a mistake learn from it and do your best to work around it. At the time it may seem like the end of the world but once your gun is finished all of those little mistakes are forgotten and never as bad as you originally thought. At least that was my experience. Have fun doing it, that's what it's all about.

Hello, thank you for that detailed reply!

What you describe makes sense. I was actually thinking of using a small file to extend the hole some and call it a day. I like your idea of the camping saw to make some room for the file. But will think more on it when I get to that point. But like you said, enlarge the hole side to side and not up or down.

My goal sounds very similar to yours. Build a nice functional rifle without too much extra or fussing about. For example, I plan to use just iron nitrate and Permalyn sealer to finish the wood and how it looks, is how it looks. I live in an area where hanging a rifle stock outside for Tried and True to cure best could get the cops called on me lol. I did order a pint of Tried and True oil varnish to try on some scrap wood. It will come in handy anyway for some old tool handles that need some love.

I'm pretty good at following instructions/videos and I keep telling myself that it's OK if you spend 15 min one day and an hour the next or whatever. And mistakes are OK. It will still be better than some imports that cost more than the kit.

I'm excited to start. I think once I get past step one of trying the barrel fit for the first time, I'll relax a little

 

[Grenadier1758]

The wood will move because of changes in humidity. The barrel will move due to expansion from changes in the barrel temperature. Lengthening the hole in the underlug from side to side is a good practice. You don't need to lengthen the hole much, but that will make a positive difference.

 

[D.Summers]

OMG! Super!!

 

[Jason holgate]

Very nice , I wish Jim would export his kits .

I am 100% positive he does.......Jim kibler

 

[Jason holgate]

Hi, thanks. I used 2 heavy applications of iron nitrate and finished with Tried and True.

Did you apply iron nitrate heat then reapply or put 2 heavy coats on then heat

 

[user 31232]

Beautiful

 

[Tenring]

Your Rifle turned out really nice, I had plain piece of maple i Was working on years ago and I had one tight spot that refused to take any stain at all I mean it wanted to stay natural and it did, my brother has that rifle now and I will have to take a pic of it and post it to show what that area looks like on it. Weird what wood does.

 

[MountainSmoke]

Did you apply iron nitrate heat then reapply or put 2 heavy coats on then heat

Hi, I put on both coats and then used the heat gun. No heat in between coats.