How do you load....?

[mazo kid]

I have a small model cannon (the larger one in the photo) and the barrel has a small powder chamber at the breech end.
I can load loose powder but would like to make powder "cartridges" for lack of a better term. The trouble is that the paper "cartridge" gets hung up at the entrance of the sub-chamber. How do you address this problem? I could make an attachment that would hold the cartridge in position while loading and then make a small rod to push the cartridge out and in place. Or???... TIA.

 

[TheDoubleD]

First off, I have ask where did you get that big cannon. It looks to be nothing more than a cast iron lawn ornament.

Can you tell what it's made of or do you know anything about it's history?

Here is a link to a first hand discussion with Pictures about a cast iron cannon failing. http://www.go2gbo.com/forums/index.php/topic,89055.0.html

 

[mazo kid]

Well, looks can be deceiving...the barrel was made by a commercial cannon barrel maker, and has a steel liner!

 

[TheDoubleD]

Glad to hear that. Looks are not decieving, they are a warning. It sounds as if you heeded the warning and know what you have,

 

[widget350]

Make a ladle sized for the cartridge. You place the cartridge in the ladle, position it in the chamber, turn it upside down, gently pull the ladle out, and the cartridge is in place.

BTW, this assumes that by cartridge you really mean a preload of powder, because a cartridge would include the projectile.

 

[Jim Klaneski]

I think that I would pull the existing liner out entirely and replace it with a straight seamless 3/8 in. liner i.e no powder chanber. Otherwise you have to try to worm and swab for the two different sized bores with every shot. A nice straight liner will be far more convenient to use, easier to clean and safer in my opinion. Even if you end up having to move the vent, I think the change would be well worth it.

 

[widget350]

You have a good point, though I have dealt with such an animal before (3"+ bore with 1" chamber), and it really wasn't that bad.

 

[mazo kid]

There is no way I can replace the liner as I believe it is cast in place. The powder "scoop" idea sounds like it should work tho.

 

[Jim Klaneski]

I doubt that the liner was cast in place. My understanding is that liners are usually inserted and removed by heating the barrel. Ken Kurdt in New York does this work for my friends in the American Artillery Association, as well as for the National Parks Service. Another good point to relining the barrel is that you can have your bore made to fit a projectile vrs the other way around. Where are you located?

 

[mazo kid]

I'm in SC Wis., cannon barrel came from Minnesota. If I can find the guy's info, I can ask him about it. Thanks for the ideas, altho I hate to put more money into the barrel. How about enlarging the subchamber?

 

[Mulebrain]

There is a way to make up powder cartridges using aluminum foil. Make up the charge, ram it home, and spike the foil with a piece of wire, and insert fuse.

BANG!

Interesting cannon!

 

[mazo kid]

Yup, that's what I am trying to do. Just seem to have a bit of trouble locating the charge in the smaller powder chamber. Maybe I need to make a smaller diameter charge and then compress it with the ball?! :hmm:

 

[TheDoubleD]

Make a funnel like device that reaches into the bore and is centered so the mouth of the funnel goes in the chamber. Push the cartridge down the funnel and into the chamber.

Put cannon in a lathe and bore the old liner out and then slip the new liner in and epoxy it in place. Add a couple of cap screws in the muzzle for insurance. Details will be found in Matt SWitlik's book The More Complete Cannoneer. Including the correct way to make breech plug and correct size for the liner.

 

[mazo kid]

Thanks for the idea, sounds like that may be a more economical way of taking care of the "problem".

 

[Theodore]

To make safe cartridges visit the NSSA site and follow their methods.
Ram in one motion, do NOT pound a charge into the breech.
Do not ladle powder. Use only foil-wrapped charges against friction, static and embers.
Wearing a leather glove, use only a brass or copper rod to prick the charge, find at a plumbing parts shop if you have to. No steel or coathanger wire.
If cannon misfires, wait at least three minutes before repricking/repriming. Study this topic and be safe.

 

[mazo kid]

Thanks for the well thought out and usable safety measures. Emery