How do you tell and old Siler lock from a new one?

[Leatherbark]

My 20gauge fowler from Jackie Brown has a Large Siler lock on it.......Track of the Wolf says that the older Siler lock had to use a 3/4 in. square flint.......The newer style uses a 3/4x 7/8ths inch............With the 3/4 x 7/8 inch I have approximatley 1/8 inch or less of clearance from the frizzen at half cock......I bought this smoothbore recently and am satisfied with its looks and performance.
Is there a rule for frizzen/flint clearance at half cock?........Who makes the Large Siler lock that Mr.Brown uses?..............Thanks.........Bob

 

[Tumblernotch]

Jim Chambers bought out Bud Siler's company several years ago as I understand it. He has made some changes in the lock geometry, but I haven't compared his with original Silers. I still have one old Siler kit not put together yet, a percussion on an unfinished rifle and one flint on my .40. It uses 3/4" flints the best, but will handle a slightly larger flint. As long as your flint doesn't push the frizzen open at half cock, you're OK. I like mine to be within 1/8" or less of the frizzen. If your flint is bevel down and nearly touching, it will be in contact for a longer period of time when firing and more likely to produce a better shower of sparks.
:imo:

 

[Hoyt]

One difference between the old siler and new siler deluxe is you have to take off the main spring on the deluxe to get to the frizzen spring screw..don't know if that's true of the new large siler or not.

 

[THORNAPPLE]

The new and old Silers (large and small)are virtually identical. The difference is when you move up to the "DELUXE" Siler (large only)...different main and frizzen springs, cock, frizzen and frizz. screw. I have converted one old std. Siler to a deluxe with parts available and it sparked a lot better and quicker. Mine all work best with 7/8" flint and bevel on top (up?).
Jim Chambers makes the Siler locks complete or as a kit. Mr. Brown could have done it either way. Many years ago I used to assemble the kits for a local Trading Post and I'm sure this still goes on around the country.

 

[Tumblernotch]

Does the frizzen spring screw go in from the inside on the new one? It enters from the outside on mine. I haven't looked at the new Chambers "Siler" locks yet. I'm thinking about forging and milling a new lock this winter just to see how good I can do it. I'll probably make one the same style as the old Siler only with a brass pan.
:front:

 

[Zonie]

"...With the 3/4 x 7/8 inch I have approximatley 1/8 inch or less of clearance from the frizzen at half cock..."

As long as the flint doesn't hit the pan when the cock is down, there is nothing wrong with the flint being 1/8 inch from the frizzen at half cock.
I've had locks which worked their best with the flint just barely clearing the closed frizzen when the cock was at half cock. :front:

 

[Tumblernotch]

My old Siler works best that way, with the bevel down.
:agree:

 

[Leatherbark]

Thanks for the information guys........This lock sparks well ,but it seems the sparks all hit in the front of the pan,but then again,I did not have any misfires at my first outing with the gun.............Bob

 

[Tumblernotch]

If a lock has "perfect" geometry, the edge of the flint should be pointing directly at the center of the pan. I have rarely seen it on a modern flintlock. Neither of the flintlocks I now own do it. Most of my sparks hit forward of the pan as well. But, if you have a well tempered frizzen and a good flint, enough will find their way into the priming to touch her off.
:front:

 

[Pork Pie]

An Ols Syler is being carried by a guy in a gray pony tail and a new on by a guy in a Mohawk.
Sorry could not resist that one.
Cheers