How fine for final sanding of Beech stock ?

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kyron4

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Getting close to staining my Traditions Kentucky rifle stock with BC walnut stain. I got it down with 150 right now, should I go over it with 180 or 220 ? I've read with beech the smoother the final sanding the harder it is for the stain to penetrate. Any advice ? -Thanks
 
i have only done one or two beech stock and they were on unmentionable guns. one i stopped with 150 grit and there were sanding lines that showed up when the stain was applied. i always joked that they were claw marks.
the next one i went to 320 and really smoothed out the entire stock especially the front of the comb and the top heel of the wrist where end grain absorbs more stain. also the nose of the forearm and the butt of the pistol grip. that one turned out even colored. beech tends to splotch.
hope this helps.
 
I did a CVA Kentucky rifle about 1980 and I used 240 grit. If I had known about 320 grit I would have used it. It took a stain good. I finished it with Tru Oil to a semi gloss. I gave it to my daughter last year and it still looked good. Good luck and keep us posted on the results.
 
Do you know about whiskering your stock, wetting it to raise the grain and re-sanding several times to get a really smooth finish, this a standard procedure on gunstocks. I don't now about beech, on my gunstocks (walnut and maple) I go to 400 grit, whisker 3 or 4 times, re-sand with the 400 and then go to a grey scotchbright pad that is the same a 00 steel wool.

Try the above sanding test in your barrel channel on a small spot and see if the stain will penetrate, if the BC stain is aniline dye it will penetrate, if it is an oil stain it might not, only a test will tell.
 
I have done numerous CVA kits and stop at 220 grit. "Whisker" the stock a couple-few times at that point. The Beech has a hard time absorbing certain types of stain, no matter the final sanding grade. I have used Feibings leather stain on the last 5 I did.
 
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