How hard is it to fit RPL lock?

[Catboy12232000]

How hard is it to fit an L&R RPL lock to a traditions kentucky? Was looking at pedersoli kentucky but the lock seems hit or miss with em, I can get a traditions one and a RPL Lock and still come in less than the pedersoli version, and the RPL should be a better lock. What I'm wondering is how much inletting is needed to fit it, and if it's a small amount can I just remove metal from the lock plate instead since that is far easier for me to do with a 1×30 sander or files depending on amount needing removed and on the L&R site is says you can do that to fit it to other rifles not listed because of the small internals

 

[Sam squanch]

If you don’t have much experience working on guns, I’d get someone who has done it before. Some of these are NOT a drop in fit, there is a fellow on the forum who did this with a Thompson center and it was a big job according to him. Hopefully he will appear soon!

 

[Catboy12232000]

If you don’t have much experience working on guns, I’d get someone who has done it before. Some of these are NOT a drop in fit, there is a fellow on the forum who did this with a Thompson center and it was a big job according to him. Hopefully he will appear soon!

Nearest gunsmith is over 400 miles away so not an option i really dont think it'll be hard to fit, they guy you mentioned probably was going from a coil spring lock to it so had to remove alot to fit the new lock

 

[Sam squanch]

Just take your time

 

[Gtrubicon]

I put an rpl lock in my CVA mountain rifle. it definitely as not drop in, but I had it in the rifle within 30 minutes. There was very minimal wood removal in the lock mortis and where the sear bar goes through to meet the trigger. An excellent upgrade for my rifor.

 

[Catboy12232000]

I put an rpl lock in my CVA mountain rifle. it definitely as not drop in, but I had it in the rifle within 30 minutes. There was very minimal wood removal in the lock mortis and where the sear bar goes through to meet the trigger. An excellent upgrade for my rifor.

I don't have the tools for wood removal other than a Dremel, so I'll be taking metal off to get it to fit, gonna trace the old lockplate outline on the new one to get em to match then see how the fit is in terms of room for the springs and stuff

 

[Gtrubicon]

All I used was a 3/16 wide chisel I made from an old wood butterfly bit and sharpened.

 

[Eric Krewson]

I highly caution against you using a Dremel for fitting anything unless you have a lot of experience with it and know all of the correct bits you need to use to get the job done.

Here is a Dremel inletted patch box done by my nephew, he had no experience with a Dremel and used an aggressive bit.

I told him I would fix it; I glued in a lot of wood and re-inletted the patchbox with my Dremel with the correct bits as well as a gouge or two.

Don't make the lock plate smaller, if you have the room make the lock inlet larger. This way you can hopefully move the lock around and line up your touch hole.

This is not a job to be tackled by someone with zero experience in gun building, your lock inlet will look like my nephew's patch box inlet.

 

[Eric Krewson]

I am the one who did the TC L&R swap, I have since decided I put the cart in front of the horse by inletting the lock first and then finding out the lock bolt was out of alignment and having to correct a zillion things so it would fit.

The L&R has a blind socket on the bridal for the lock bolt to screw into. It is best to insert the lock bolt through the stock and into this socket, and inlet your lock where it sits with the lock bolt in place. Hopefully the pan will line up with the touch hole.

 

[Catboy12232000]

All I used was a 3/16 wide chisel I made from an old wood butterfly bit and sharpened.

All I have is a cheap harbor freight chisel set, I did a little practice on a 2x4 and decided I'd much rather use a dremel and wood fill If i take to much off, I have alot of experience with metal working so I'd be much more comfortable adjustability the lock and following the old rule of fitting the part not the gun

 

[Catboy12232000]

I am the one who did the TC L&R swap, I have since decided I put the cart in front of the horse by inletting the lock first and then finding out the lock bolt was out of alignment and having to correct a zillion things so it would fit.

The L&R has a blind socket on the bridal for the lock bolt to screw into. It is best to insert the lock bolt through the stock and into this socket, and inlet your lock where it sits with the lock bolt in place. Hopefully the pan will line up with the touch hole.

Was that lock going from a coil spring to the a leaf like I said?

 

[bldtrailer]

not hard just take your time

 

[Catboy12232000]

View attachment 274820not hard just take your timeView attachment 274821

Is that a kentucky in the photo? And from reading it says the mortis just needs deepened on that model? Do you know how much?

 

[TDM]

Please don’t use the dremel, even a cheap chisel would be much better. The RPL locks come with a diagram showing where wood needs to be removed, but it’s still a process of take a little off, trial fit, then repeat. Just take off a little at a time.

 

[sussexmuzllodr]

All I have is a cheap harbor freight chisel set, I did a little practice on a 2x4 and decided I'd much rather use a dremel and wood fill If i take to much off, I have alot of experience with metal working so I'd be much more comfortable adjustability the lock and following the old rule of fitting the part not the gun

Take an old swiss army knife and grind the various blades into various chisels for work like this.

 

[Catboy12232000]

Please don’t use the dremel, even a cheap chisel would be much better. The RPL locks come with a diagram showing where wood needs to be removed, but it’s still a process of take a little off, trial fit, then repeat. Just take off a little at a time.

Do you happen to have a picture of that diagram or know someone that does? I just wanna see how much wood removal I'm looking at before I buy the lock

 

[Catboy12232000]

Take an old swiss army knife and grind the various blades into various chisels for work like this.

Except most of the newer old Swiss army knives really don't have good quality steel and aren't hard enough for that type of work

 

[TDM]

Do you happen to have a picture of that diagram or know someone that does? I just wanna see how much wood removal I'm looking at before I buy the lock

I’m home now and the instructions/diagram that comes with an RPL lock is at my camp. It’s just a line drawing with dashed lines as I remember, I put an RPL lock on an Investarms, but that was a while ago. If you go to the L&R website they probably have a download available. The required wood removal will be inside the mortise, the lock plate will usually fit the inlet fine.

 

[Catboy12232000]

I’m home now and the instructions/diagram that comes with an RPL lock is at my camp. It’s just a line drawing with dashed lines as I remember, I put an RPL lock on an Investarms, but that was a while ago. If you go to the L&R website they probably have a download available. The required wood removal will be inside the mortise, the lock plate will usually fit the inlet fine.

I know on the traditions lock you gotta sand the tail off says it right in the description on TOTW, hopefully not too much wood needs removed and it's all even and I don't need to add a step to the mortise. Couldn't find the diagram on the L&R site so probably would have to call them. How hard is it to chisel the beech wood I've heard these are made of compared to the pine and fir wood I've practiced on?

 

[pilot]

I put one on a T/C Hawken. Had to remove wood in the mortice for it to fit. Works great now.

Use chisels. Never a dremel. You are removing little slivers of wood.