How hard is it to fit RPL lock?

[TDM]

I know on the traditions lock you gotta sand the tail off says it right in the description on TOTW, hopefully not too much wood needs removed and it's all even and I don't need to add a step to the mortise. Couldn't find the diagram on the L&R site so probably would have to call them. How hard is it to chisel the beech wood I've heard these are made of compared to the pine and fir wood I've practiced on?

Just sharpen your chisel as best you can and take a little off at a time, the beech won’t be a problem. Use a marking aid, candle soot, lipstick, sharpie, or what have you. Just take the contact points out as you find them.

 

[Ben Meyer]

I put a L&R RPL lock in a Dixie Gun Works Southern Mtn rifle. Spent some time getting the patina/finish match correct using Laurel Mounrain Barrel Brown. While it DID drop right in, it didn't work correctly with my triggers. I took videos, sent them to L&R, called them and explained everything, sent the lock back to them. They gunsmithed it up and it now works fine.

Bottom line: the RPL locks really aren't DIY drop ins. But, L&R customer service was excellent.

 

[Snooterpup]

Please don’t use the dremel, even a cheap chisel would be much better. The RPL locks come with a diagram showing where wood needs to be removed, but it’s still a process of take a little off, trial fit, then repeat. Just take off a little at a time.

Yes! A Dremel is absolutely the fastest way to be the newest member of the ‘Why’d I do that?’ regret club.

 

[bldtrailer]

yes it is blacken the inside of the lock and only remove what you need to,

the web between your inletting and the factory cut will get very thin

 

[Eric Krewson]

I put my L&R flintlock in a percussion stock, you do have to remove a lot of wood to accommodate the mainspring. I had inletted several scratch build locks prior so this wasn't a big deal.

 

[simonbeans]

In the early 1970s, with the help of a gun collector/builder from Wilson, NY I built my first rifle from a blank. It started out with a CVA Maslin Percussion lock (seems my mentor was not big with flints). In 1976, flintlocks became my obsession and continues to today. I put in the Flint version of the CVA Maslin. As years went on, and learning more about “good” locks, I decided in 2015 to replace it with a L & R RPL #1 Flintlock. Fitting it was rather easy as has been noted in the previous comments. Basically, removal of wood in the lock opening to accommodate the mainspring was necessary.

I never did like the double throat of the L & R lock, so I asked the staff at L & R if they had a “gooseneck” that would fit their lock. They did and here is the result. I don’t shoot this rifle much anymore. But when I do, it fires reliably. In fact, back in the 1970s it got me a nice 8-point buck, the best of my hunting career so far.

 

[rickpa]

1. Go to flea markets and buy old chisels. They're cheap and usually of good steel. Learn to sharpen them. One of my best chisels is an old one from the late 1800s that belonged to my great grandfather.
2. Use an old candle to smoke the parts you're inletting. Put the part in place and remove any black marks on the wood. Go slow. Take small cuts.
3. Think. Measure. Double check everything. Measure again. Stop. Go slow with the chisel If you make a mistake stop and think. Measure again. Repeat as needed. Don't get discouraged, you'll get the hang of it. But learn to use wood working tools. They'll be more useful than you think.

 

[BadDaditood]

Many years ago I put an L&R RPL percussion lock into a Traditions caplock Kentucky.
If it didn’t drop right in I can’t remember any issues. But then I’ve been whittling/butchering wood for 50 years.
If you absolutely Must use your Dremel, use it to sharpen your new flea market chisels. (1/8” and 1/4” is all you need)

 

[tenngun]

I don't have the tools for wood removal other than a Dremel, so I'll be taking metal off to get it to fit, gonna trace the old lockplate outline on the new one to get em to match then see how the fit is in terms of room for the springs and stuff

Don’t use a dermal.
While excellent tool it is too difficult to use in fitting. Even in the best of hands it’s guaranties to take off too much wood.
Get an 1/8 chisel. Track has them. Have a stone handy and sharpen as you go
Disassemble the lock, fit the plate. Then use a candle to blacken the parts you add in. Put on the bridle blacken cut out black areas on wood, repeat until it fits.
Then add tumbler and do the same till tumbler rotates freely, then sear and sear spring. Lastly main spring
Outside blacken **** and check to see if it moves freely frizzen will fit when you fit lock plate
Drill and tap screw holes

 

[Eric Krewson]

On wood you can do the same thing a Dremel does with a fine cut round rifler file and never take off too much wood.

I bought this one in 83 or 84 when I was a serious duck decoy carver, it is English made and high quality, I bought a tri-corner one like it as well. They were common in the carving supply catalogs at the time but when I tried to find them a few years ago to buy some new ones they were nowhere to be found.