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How I pour a pewter knife bolster

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ZUG

Pilgrim
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This is how I go about it;
I first attach my handle material to the tang. I then mark off the length of the bolster that I want with tape. Next I reduce the area with file to permit the pewter material to fill in the reduced area. I wrap manila folder paper around the handle to form a dam to allow for excess pewter to flow around the knife handle and secure with tape & cord to prevent leakage. I secure the knife in a vise with the blade up and proceed to melt the pewter. When the pewter is melted I flux the melt then pour it into the paper dam. When cooled I remove the paper dam and inspect for voids ”“ fill them if necessary. Shape pewter & handle material using sanding wheel and sandpaper ”“ polish ”“ done.
Note this is also my way to pour muzzle caps except I drill cross holes for the pewter to “lock” into.







 
now I know how to due it. do you know of anyone selling less than a pound of pewter.
 
The "pewter" that I used for this bolster was purchased from Track of the Wolf. I have bearing babbet metal that I have used. I have used linotype also. Pure lead can be used but it is too soft and discolors -- I like my bolsters to look like nickel (shinny). Hope this helps :v .
 
I've read of the technique of using a paper dam, and always wondered why the paper didn't burn. I guess that's no concern at all. Thanks for posting the tutorial.
 
I think it might be similar to boiling water in a wax paper pail over a fire, in any event heavy paper seems to work fine.

And...mea culpa time. Like everything in life pouring a pewter bolster takes a time or two to learn. My first attempt didn't come out that good. I just used the lead free solder but I wasn't certain it was correct- melts at 430 degrees which is good.
 
rj morrison said:
now I know how to due it. do you know of anyone selling less than a pound of pewter.
Why not try a local Trift store. $.50 for a old pewter cup or goblet. Cut it up and yer in business...
 
YUP -- if you look close I have touched the intersection between the blade & bolster with the grinding belt and tried to buff it to blend. I use a thick tape on the blade to mitigate the contact as my eyes are not that sharp anymore. I may try to clamp 1/16" aluminum sheet to both sides of the blade to prevent contact of the grinding belt or maybe not :grin: Practice, practice, practice :wink: .
 
Good question -- don't know :idunno: --- the metal that I use melts at a low temp and does not scorch the handle material (as long as I don't overheat it). Zinc melts at a higher temp then lead and the "pewter" melts at a bit lower then lead-(my experience so far). All I can say is - try it :hmm: .
 
Dave, pewter has no exact formula, and can be 50% lead and still be legally sold as pewter. 95/5 lead free plumbers solder is as good as any. There used to be a grade of plumbers solder that had a little nickel in it. I have some, but the steel spool has rusted, and now I can't tell which is which among the rest. It stayed bright longer, and was a little bit harder and wear resistant.
 
I would caution those who buy pewter from thrift shops, junk stores, ect. Some of the old pewter pieces can be worth a lot more than the value of the pewter. It is a good idea to check before destroying a possibly valuable antique.
 

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