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twobarrel

40 Cal.
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How long do I leave the baking soda and water mixture on my barrel to stop the rust browning process ? And what is the next step ?

This is a new smoothbore and the builder didn't do a very good job of stopping the rust on the bottom of the barrel.

Thanks
 
It shouldn't take long twobarrel.It's a chemical reaction and as long as you have treated the area in question and rub it in realy good allow it to sit for 10 to 15 minutes then remove,wipe it dry and oil should be set.
 
Make sure you oil it a couple or three times too. May need to do it a few times before it totally quits.
 
Swampy said:
I would recommend going through the process twice before proclaiming it done and oiling it up.
What swampy said, or use Household Ammonia.

The typical trouble guy's have with baking soda is they mix it too thin, the stuff needs to all most a paste and it needs to be moved around (wiping or brushing) for several minutes at least to work.
Remember your trying to nutrilize an acid reation.

I found the ammonia tips found here to be much more reliable, Ammonia is very base and the liquid moves freely into/ontoo every little spot.
 
The "better" the job (fine grained with very even tone) takes a more serious effort to neutralize in my experience.

I scrub with baking soda, and then with dishsoap. I use an old toothbrush and really scrub it good with a series of thorough rinses. I then oil it (Kroil) and let it sit on the bench for 3 days or so to make sure before assembly.

On my first browning job, I was surprised at how much soda scrubbing it took to completely stop the process.

If you do a good job, and it is very fine grained, the durability of the finish is simply amazing.
 
I no longer use baking soda because of after rust. Hardware stores sell contractor strength ammonia although I previously used household ammonia and it worked fine. Small parts are submerged in the ammonia for 5 mins and the ammonia is applied to bbls w/ a paint brush for a few mins. A hot rinse, a dry and I apply Oxyoke 1000 w/ light strokes of 0000 steel wool. A complete wipe off and then auto wax....Fred
 
An important point is that you need to use a fresh box of baking soda. If it's been around a while it absorbs natural acids in the air, and loses it'sPH. I switched to ammonia a while ago, and haven't looked back.

Bill
 
Bill of the 45th Parallel said:
An important point is that you need to use a fresh box of baking soda. If it's been around a while it absorbs natural acids in the air, and loses it'sPH. I switched to ammonia a while ago, and haven't looked back.

Bill
Didn't know that about old soda- thanks.
 
Not to bring back an old thread, BUT. I have just moved. Had built a rifle right before moving and I THOUGHT I had stopped the browning process. Low and Behold, it was still browning away after a baking soda bath, a couple days of soaking in oil and a coat of wax. So I tried the ammonia thing tonight. Took a piece of 2" PVC, put a cap on one end and filled it with ammonia. Let the barrel soak for about 5 minutes, carded it and repeated the process. We shall see if this does the trick or not.
In the browning process, I had used several fairly thick coats of LMF (as thick as you can) and had not carded between coats. Also it was very dry here in GA that week so I put it in a bathroom and filled the tub with hot water when ever I thought about it. I wanted texture and darkness. I think I might have them.
 
I've always just rubbed boiled linseed oil onto the barrel and wiped off. Have never had rust reappear.
 
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