How many gr for a .36 cal

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Tomorrow I am going to the shooting range and will be shooting my son's Hawkins rifle in .36 Cal.

How many gr of FF powder should I use? What is the Max?

I will post pictures if able.

Also how is a good way to clean it at the range when it starts to foul? Will my Hoppies #9 be ok until I get it home?

Can I just pore powder then ball with a patch around it or do I need a plastic wad between my powder and ball?
 
I'v had good luck with 30-35grns of fff goex. Shootin a spit patch i can shoot all day and not swab the bore.You dont need anything between the powder and patched ball.
 
You're likely to get a lot of feedback on this post.

First, you will be better served using FFFg in a .36. Small bores don't like FFg and the fouling will result in cleaning a lot more frequently!

Don't wast the Hoppe's on a muzzleloader. There are several solutions you can use but water works best and denatured alcohol dries fastest. Wet patch, dry, dry, load.

Plastic wad???? Nothing plastic should go down your bore. Just a .345 or .350 roundball with patch cut from cotton cloth like ticking or your old jeans lubed with spit or your favorite muzzleloading lube.

Be careful and Enjoy, J.D.
 
As was mentioned your gun should be using a .350 or .355 diameter ball along with a cloth patch.

The patch should be about an inch in diameter or 1 inch square although a patch down to 3/4 inch will work as long as it is centered on the bore before ramming the ball.

Cotton material works best and it must be lubricated. Just about anything from spit to any of the vegetable oils or a commercial patch lube will work.

Your .36 can use powder charges from 25 to 60 grains but powder loads over 50 grains will often shoot poorly.

When the fouling gets to the point that ramming the patched ball starts getting difficult you should wipe the bore.

To do this use a damp (not dripping wet) patch and run it down the bore to the breech on a cleaning jag.
Let it sit there for 10-15 seconds and then pull it back out in one smooth stroke.
Then run a dry patch down and back out to dry things before you continue to load your next shot.

Let us know how things went. :)
 
You have gotten some good answers to your question, I will speak up also. When shooting a new rifle a powder load of between 1/3 to 1/2 the weight of the ball in powder will be a good starting place. For example your .36 should shoot a ball of between 65 and 70 grains in weight. 1/ 3 of this is 21 or 22 grains 1/2 would be in the 35 grain range. This will not be your most accurate load but it will give you a place to start.............watch yer top knot............
 
I shoot 21 gr Swiss FFFg in my .36. I have used 25 gr Goex FFFg. I wouldn't shoot FFg as it fouls too much.
 
My TC Seneca shoots very well with 30 to 40 grains of Goex 3F and a patched (18 thousands) plus a Hornady .350 ball. spit patch if needed to clean at the range. If you use bore butter/wonder lube, you can get by with out wiping after every shot.
 
What does the Owners Manual read???????When in doubt the Owners Manual is the place to start and finish.. :)
Might even find it on line,, if you don't have the one that come with the rifle.
 
There is no manual. This rifle has been in the family for 30 years. It use to be my moms to use at Rendezvous. She gave it to my son years ago but my son is into AR's and military rifles so he never shoots it. He has shot it a few time and liked it but still, kids are kids and unless it has a 30 round mag or killed a Natzi its not first choice.

I was going to go shoot it today and its a beautiful day to do so but I dont have enough gass to drive 20 miles to the range. At least I can not justify using that much gas just for myself. Tomorrow when my son gets home I may go shooting if there is two of us. We will probably then go over to the Pea Ridge Battle Field and look around. I have stuff to do int the morning but by noon we should be out shooting. I will post pictures.
 
What is the MFG of the rifle and the barrel length??? Got two book one by Sam Fadala and one written by Major George C Nonte jr. USA Retired both have ballistics tables with lots of information....
 
Bobby Guapo said:
I was going to go shoot it today and its a beautiful day to do so but I dont have enough gass to drive 20 miles to the range. At least I can not justify using that much gas just for myself.

What the heck are you driving? A Sherman tank?

Here in yUK we are paying almost $11.50 a gallon, and WE still go shooting.

Git out there and go to the range!!!! :shake:

tac
 
Just a Jeep.

I started out to the range this morning but ended up in Cabelas and I got me a LEE mold for .451 round ball. It took my extra money for myself.
My son has been in Atlanta all week be he gets home tonight. Tomorrow I will see if he wants to go shooting, then I can justify using 3 gallons of fuels to get there and back. I had $23 to spend on myself this week and a LEE mold was $20.99 pluss tax and it came to a total of $22.88 which gave me 12 cents to splurge on anything I want.


Here is a picture of the rifle. Its a Thompsons Center in .36 cal. The barrel looks to be about 20 inches if even that.

DSCF0115.jpg


DSCF0117.jpg
 
I am going to start with 40 gr since I am using FF powder and then I will plus and minus until I get the groupings I like.

Then I will stand on top of the shooting bench and crow like a rooster to let everybody at the shooting range know I am king of the range.

Then I will go home and clean my rifle.
 
Bobby, I have both a .32 and a .36 and enjoy both. You best listen to these guys here. You DON'T want to use 2F in a .36, either get some 3F Black or 3F equivalent to shoot in that rifle. With 2F you will have to swab about every other shot. :surrender:
 
i finally found me a .36 seneca. took it to the range.35 grains swiss 3f.couldn't get it to group to save my life.different patchs,nothing worked.finally after contemplating a smoldering patch, i thought a 36 caliber bore button might work.sure enough i got a nice tight group about an inch above point of aim.amazing how many times i've had to relearn that lesson.read your patchs,they will tell you alot.this is a sweet little rifle.
 
If 2f is all you have, go ahead and use it, it will work fine but if you have any 3f, I'd recommend it over the 2f for your rifle. It is a bit cleaner burning and the smaller calibers have a bit of a problem with fouling.

For swabbing between shots, I like to use a 1:10 mixture of Ballistol in water. If you don't have Ballistol, just use some automobile windshield washer fluid. It does a great job and it is cheap. Run a patch with the washer fluid on it down the bore after each shot, flip it over and run it down again. Then follow with a dry patch or two to be sure you have all of the moisture out of the barrel. When you are though shooting, use the same stuff to clean your bore before going home and leave it dry before heading home.

When you get home, use warm soapy water to scrub out your bore. Rinse with warm clear water and dry with several clean patches. Spray a good bit of WD-40 down your bore to remove all traces of water and run more patches to remove the WD-40. With the WD-40 swabbed out of your bore, next, run a patch with some Barricade or other good gun oil on it and your barrel is ready for storage in your gun cabinet. Of course, the rest of the gun must be thoroughly cleaned, too before reassembling it.

Now to your loading question. First NO PLASTIC!!! Use around 35 or 40 grains of powder to start with and adjust from there to get your best group. Prior to loading, place a cap on the nipple and point the muzzle downrange at the ground close to a leaf or blade of grass. Pop the cap and watch the leaf or blade of grass to see if it moves. If it does, your flash channel is open and you are ready to load. If it doesn't move, you need to find out what is blocking the flash channel. Measure your powder and pour into the bore. gently tap the side of your rifle to settle the powder in the powder chamber. Then place a lubed patch carefully centered on the muzzle. Next set your ball on the patch and start it down the bore with your short starter. Seat the ball onto the powder with your ramrod. Make sure it is seated all the way. Do not leave any space between the ball and the powder. Now, walk to the line, cap your rifle and shoot your target, Never cap or prime before reaching the line and pointing your rifle downrange.
 
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