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How many of you dry your revolver in the oven?

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I've won a few of those myself and competed in 2 world championships. I'll stick to oil.

It's not law, use what you want. Just answering an implied question for those that are new.

The modern synthetic grease is by far superior to the 19th century lubes the originals used. I try to give my customers the best technology available to me which is why coils are used along with synthetic lubes. Folks tend to like revolvers that don't need frequent repairs and won't wear out.
It's like having a classic automobile that won't be worn-out by 100,000 miles.

Mike
 
It's not law, use what you want. Just answering an implied question for those that are new.

The modern synthetic grease is by far superior to the 19th century lubes the originals used. I try to give my customers the best technology available to me which is why coils are used along with synthetic lubes. Folks tend to like revolvers that don't need frequent repairs and won't wear out.
It's like having a classic automobile that won't be worn-out by 100,000 miles.

Mike
!WARNING- THE FOLLOING IS INTENDED TO BE HUMOR. IF YOU CAN'T HANDLE IT, PLEASE TURN AWAY BEFORE YOU ARE OFFENDED!
Hmmm....
I wonder how Slick 50 would work.....
 
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Understood. It's that red, tacky stuff I grease all the zerks on my sxs with. I wondered how packing the works like this would work. Nice thing is that stuff doesn't run even in the heat we have in central AZ. Sometimes during the hottest time in summer, I get the itch to shoot and don't care how hot it is. So, besides the barrel and cylinder, you just scrub off the fouling on the frame externals?
I think a patch and /or Q-tip wet with Ballistol will loosen dry fouling and allow it all to be wiped away. I wipe all my revolvers down with a soft cloth with Ballistol. Most of my customers get an action shield which also protects the grease from fouling entry from the hammer slot (from nipple blowback). I set up all my "unmentionable" S.A.'s the same exact way the cap guns are set up.

Here's an action shield on these 3 revolvers -
Resized_2(2).jpeg


Mike
 
Understood. It's that red, tacky stuff I grease all the zerks on my sxs with. I wondered how packing the works like this would work. Nice thing is that stuff doesn't run even in the heat we have in central AZ. Sometimes during the hottest time in summer, I get the itch to shoot and don't care how hot it is. So, besides the barrel and cylinder, you just scrub off the fouling on the frame externals?
I have all my BP guns packed with it and believe me, it keeps all the junk from going inside the frame requiring wiping the fouling off and just the cylinder and barrel to scrub. I also drop the cylinder and nipples in an ultrasonic cleaner while I scrub the barrel. Someone mentioned that back then they didn’t have ultrasonic cleaners etc which is true. But I will bet you they would have used them if they had them. I say if you like your method and it works for you, then continue to use it. No one is telling anybody their way is the only way.
 
I think a patch and /or Q-tip wet with Ballistol will loosen dry fouling and allow it all to be wiped away. I wipe all my revolvers down with a soft cloth with Ballistol. Most of my customers get an action shield which also protects the grease from fouling entry from the hammer slot (from nipple blowback). I set up all my "unmentionable" S.A.'s the same exact way the cap guns are set up.

Here's an action shield on these 3 revolvers -
View attachment 221990

Mike
I'm thinking about doing this, but just putting a small slot in the hammer and securing the brass shield with a touch of soft solder rather than drilling the hammer. Trying to figure what may cut the slimmest slot in the hammer.
 
I'm thinking about doing this, but just putting a small slot in the hammer and securing the brass shield with a touch of soft solder rather than drilling the hammer. Trying to figure what may cut the slimmest slot in the hammer.

Dremel cutoff wheel.

Mike
 
I have all my BP guns packed with it and believe me, it keeps all the junk from going inside the frame requiring wiping the fouling off and just the cylinder and barrel to scrub. I also drop the cylinder and nipples in an ultrasonic cleaner while I scrub the barrel. Someone mentioned that back then they didn’t have ultrasonic cleaners etc which is true. But I will bet you they would have used them if they had them. I say if you like your method and it works for you, then continue to use it. No one is telling anybody their way is the only way.
I heard the suggestion of an ultra sonic. I know how well they work having used an industrial one in a surgery decontamination room. Got one at HF and only wish I had the disposable income to buy the biggest one for my 1858 Remington. FYI, a simple test to make sure the transducers are working well is to put a 2"x2" square of aluminum foil into the tank with water and cycle it for 3-5 mins. You should see the foil degrade, usually from the center out.
 
Once, when I was shooting in the Intergalactic Black Powder Revolver Universe Championship, this Andorian steps up to the line, his revolver just dripping spice from the mines of Kessel. I elbow the Klingon standing next to me and said, “bejmeH cha' mIw'a'”! Man, we laughed and laughed…
-Red, came in fourth…
 
All this talk of "New tangled ways (dishwasher, oven, etc) leaving More Time For Shooting"

Makes wonder; just how much time does anyone Sacrifice to get home and clean the old tried and true way verses those who say "Heck, I can stay out and shoot an extra 20 min because the wife will have the oven warmed up when I get home..."?

(Aside from those who have admitted ruining the finish/coat on a gun here and there during experimentation)

I mean; do you really have old time shooting buddies that leave you alone at the range because it takes them longer to clean their gun?
I am pretty sure I can Dry a pistol about as fast as an oven can, and I already have it all at the table ready to lube and assemble - no time spent Moving from point A to point B and back again.
As for Dishwashers; now my wife wants one of then super speedy 15 min washers, ours takes almost 30 min and I can have my gun clean, dry, lubed, and assembled in that amount of time!
Not sure where to jump into this conversation, but here goes. All of this 'how to clean and dry BP revolvers leaves my head spinning. Have been firing, using BP revolvers over 40 years now. I use a good powder solvent to clean the entire revolver, bore, cylinder and wipe down the frame. Good stiff bore brush and lead solvent for the bore. Then using 'Gun Scrubber for cleaning the inside works. (It come with a plastic tube that idea for getting into tight spaces.) Afterwards a little 'spray' gun oil on the insides and a light, very (light,) wipe of the rest. It's done. Over 40 years, no rust, no corrosion. About every 6 months, I break down my guns for a close inspection. If I've been doing it wrong all these years, It Works. At 76 years old, this dog is too old to learn a new trick.
 
Not sure where to jump into this conversation, but here goes. All of this 'how to clean and dry BP revolvers leaves my head spinning. Have been firing, using BP revolvers over 40 years now. I use a good powder solvent to clean the entire revolver, bore, cylinder and wipe down the frame. Good stiff bore brush and lead solvent for the bore. Then using 'Gun Scrubber for cleaning the inside works. (It come with a plastic tube that idea for getting into tight spaces.) Afterwards a little 'spray' gun oil on the insides and a light, very (light,) wipe of the rest. It's done. Over 40 years, no rust, no corrosion. About every 6 months, I break down my guns for a close inspection. If I've been doing it wrong all these years, It Works. At 76 years old, this dog is too old to learn a new trick.
Nothing wrong with doing what is working. You are preaching to the choir here. I still have only an old fashioned plug in the wall phone.
 
Nothing wrong with doing what is working. You are preaching to the choir here. I still have only an old fashioned plug in the wall phone.
Heck I rather like the old dial style phones over the push button ones. Love the way they sounded as one dialed the numbers.
 
Plus, how hot do you "bake" it at?
And does anyone have any horror stories relating to drying it this way?

Yep did that with some Revolvers in my teens.... they looked dry.... found they formed "flash rust" very quickly. But I have no idea if the bluing compounds on the repros has changed since that was 45 years ago

LD
 
The only way to do dry a gun is my way, there is no other way, well there is the highway but you know if its asphalt its black as well? Now I think of it I saw asphalt melting in Western Idaho one time and wondered, isn't this a place for concrete?

Well all sarcasm aside, if you are happy then there is no wrong way. I don't clean my guns the way some do either, but it works just fine for me. Its always good to see ideas from others, but compelled by some law of BP Revolvers? I don't think so.

I keep reading about filling the mechanism with grease, ok, maybe if you shoot a lot of rounds but try taking it apart? So far I have not seen enough build up for the shooting I do so I will pass. I got the grease to do it, just not the need at my level of shooting.

I did try the oven out of curiosity, ours lowest set is 170 deg and the wood needs to come off but I was doing a barrel an some cylinders. Into a glass pie plate and then I had a dish of water (not a lot but...)

Now we all have different tools available. One of mine is a Veggie/Fruit dryer that has good heat and air flow. That works nicely.

Sure you get a bit of flash rust, kind of so what? It wipes off.
 
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